This is just a quick remix of the TS-80 case I made a while back.  This one is larger though, so a USB cable can be stored in it.  It is now posted on Thingiverse (but not yet tested):

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4164450

So I swapped the worn stock arm on my extruder with another of the same design (which fixed the looseness of the non-driven gear), but that did not fix the underextrusion.   I also replaced the bowden tube and coupler which helped a bit. And now I have swapped the nozzle with this one from Amazon, and from the looks of it, it is a pretty nice looking nozzle, however the first print was not perfect (had some boogers) - but I am still testing it.  I am hopeful that this new nozzle will work for my printer, since it looks very well made (almost appears polished inside which is not found on cheap packs of MK8 nozzles typically).  I have some longer prints lined up which should be a better test.

After months of great service, the CR10S Pro now needs some help.  It was poorly extruding, so I tried swapping everything out from the nozzle to the bowden (and couplers), checking extruder steps, tearing down and rebuilding the hot end and checking the filament diameter, and then found this:

The arm is clearly worn from the gear rubbing against it.  I'm not 100% sure that this alone is the problem but it certainly does not look great, and I need to fix it. Update - it looks like it is not 100% of the problem, I was able to reduce the underextrusion quite a bit by removing and re-installing the bowden tube again (suspect that the tube was not fully installed in the extruder.  The problem with the extruder arm however will need to be fixed or replaced.

But there is a fix, provided by TinyMachines (https://tinymachines3d.com/products/creality-10s-pro-extruder-lever-exchange-program).  They will mill out the lever and provide some bronze washers for $12.50 (plus shipping).  It is cheaper to get a new dual gear extruder from Amazon, but it looks like many of those will probably have the same trouble in time, so this is a better fix if the idea is to keep it stock.  There are certainly better options for direct drive extruders, but right now I just want it working again and don't have the time to spend installing a Bondtech of Titan (which require firmware and vref changes).  Not sure what the turnaround time is on it though.

And here's a great video which explains the fix from Liqui-Dirt 3D.

Update #1 (2/4/2020): I swapped the arm of the extruder with another which was not worn (bought a spare which is nearly identical and has the same dimensions on the arm).  It did not help, so now I am leaning to the nozzle since I recently swapped to a cheaper set, and although I swapped it, it was with another nozzle from the same batch.  The problem did not immediately start with the nozzles though so I am still not sure.  So next up I am gonna try a better nozzle and see if the problem continues. 

The extruder arm will still get replaced once I get the fixed one from Tinymachines since I can see definite wear on mine (and the gear can now move a bit over a mm up and down in the arm due to the problem), but the worn arm does not seem to be the problem in this case.

Some pics of a few things I have been working on, some are not published yet (Thingiverse has problems again and it is not worth the timeouts to try and load new designs right now).  The AA Battery holder is printed but has some issues feeding so I may need to work on the design a bit more.

And yes, that is a magnetic TP holder :D

I replaced my Capacitive sensor with an Inductive Sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX), following the recommendation from Nexi-Tech's video here, and it was a pretty easy swap.  The hardest part was testing it out before installing it (also tested a replacement capacitive probe I bought as a backup). 

The probe is an NPN normally open (NO) sensor, and to test them, I used a 10K Ohm resistor (pullup) between the black (output) wire and +12v (which connects to the brown wire).  Blue is ground - there is a good pic of the wire color scheme here.  The pullup resistor brings the output (black wire) to +12V normally, and when the probe is triggered, it would drop the output (black wire) to close to zero volts, as the transistor inside the sensor would close the connection between the output (which is connected to +12V though a 10K Ohm resistor) to ground.  The resistor is only for testing though, and not necessary when it is all connected up and in use (the resistor will be there still, but on one of the circuit boards). 

So far though I like it, however the sensing distance was smaller than what was shown in the Nexi-Tech video, I had to lower it a bit more and could not use the 3.9mm plexiglass piece which was used in the video to set the spacing on the probe (see the pic).  I was concerned that the bed clips may interfere with the probe, but they are far enough away that they do not affect it.  I suspect it will be an upgrade over the old sensor (which was broken anyway).

I went to home my printer after running a print and found that the Z sensor was not working (crashed the hot end into the bed).  I ran M119 and it was not showing as triggered even though I had triggered it and could see the red indicator LED was lit on the sensor.  To be sure though, I tested it out, and since I am lazy I googled to see if it was an NPN or PNP, and turns out it is NPN - and mine is dead - though it is strange the LED still indicates correctly (broken wire or connection maybe?).  The pinout on these sensors is Black (output), Blue (ground), Brown (V in).  I connected it up to my adjustable supply set for 12v, and connected the 10K Ohm pullup resistor between the black wire (output) and the 12V in, and when triggered, it never dropped the voltage on the output pin so seems to be dead. 

No biggie though, these are cheap and it gives me a reason to swap it for an inductive probe.  I bought the one linked in the how-to video by Nexi-Tech here (and also picked up a capacitive sensor just in case I decide to switch back.

https://www.nexi-tech.com/creality-cr10s-pro-autolevel-sensor-upgrade/

This did get me thinking about spare parts for the CR10S Pro, and how they are actually not easy to find beyond the basics.  Fortunately there is always some other way to fix something on most of these printers, than just dropping a genuine spare part in, but it is often not as easy as just swapping like for like.  But my search for the genuine spare did lead me to find this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-CR-10S-PRO-3D-Printer-800mm-tall-Ribbon-Cable-Extended-MAX-Free-ship/283676658044

Which unfortunately I cannot find more info about over at opembuilds (despite what is in the listing).  Looks like a simple mod  as mods go, and could be really cool - but now that I have my enclosure for my printer it is not on the menu anytime soon.  I think that kind of mod would also need to have some upgrades to the rigidity of the bed unless the speeds were slowed down quite a bit.  Really cool upgrade though, maybe someday I will do it.

Although the HEPA + Carbon filter seems to be working just fine, I decided to add an exhaust fan to the printer enclosure.  It uses the same fan as the filter but discharges the air into a 2 1/2" hose which is then sent though an unused doggie door.  I made a panel to go in the doggie door which the hose can attach to with a quick change coupler, and a cap to close it off when it's not being used.  Seems to work, and the volume of air at the end of the hose is reasonable for what I want it to do.  I did find several design problems which I went back and corrected as best I can, but I feel that if I had started over from scratch I would have done things a bit different with the exhaust fan.  It is not enough of an issue for me to spend that time though, and since it works I probably will just leave it be.  I've not posted this, or the doors or most of the rest of the enclosure on Thingiverse yet, and hesitate to do so since although I like it, and it works, it is not perfect - and is also not complete yet.  It has also been  an expensive project.

So the holidays are finally over, and now I can start to refill the hole in my bank account, but the work is not yet done (never is).  If it were up to me though, I'd just leave the lights up all year, since it seems a waste to spend the effort to take them down just to put 'em back up 11 months later.  But I guess we live in a society with rules and all that, so I will cooperate for the great good of the neighborhood and take 'em down.  I'm not really all that much into Christmas anyway, seems like it is just a shakedown by the Apple-Industrial Complex and Amazon, and probably the Rand Corp...uh, I better not say anymore, I think Alexa is listening.

Anyhoo, I made some clips to let me coil up and store my Christmas lights using some old filament spools.  Seems like a good way to do something with them since I could not bring myself to pitch 'em, and they don't have any recycling symbols on them (but appear to be ABS).  You can find the clips here if you want to organize your lights, and have a bunch of empty spools lying around with nothing better to do. 

The design was remixed from Madox's Filament Clip (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12516) and Shermluge's Christmas Light holder for rain gutters (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204558).

If you were unfortunate enough to stumble on my humble site, the least I could do for your troubles is to wish you a Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Happy Kwanza or Merry Festivus.  Pretty soon it will just be called Amazon-mas, but for now we can enjoy whats left of the Holiday Season, and look forward to using all the new credit card bonus miles in 2020.  Hopefully you will be spending the holiday with friends and family, or at least with a stiff drink and some good music, if they are unavailable or intolerable.  For whatever you are celebrating, I hope you have a Merry Holiday!

This is a modification of my under desk PC mount for the Lenovo M700 Tiny PC.  It started off simple and then I added a cable management clip which actually took as long as the modifying the drawer, however I thought it would be important to secure a cable (USB cable) to the drawer, and cover the hole use to install it.  The current version requires a CR10 size printer to make, but I am working on an Ender3 size version as well (220x220mm).

It's now up on Thingiverse here.