Thanks to some helpful feedback, I'm working on a small update to the "wiper module" for my  Bambu X1/P1 Spares Box .  The "wiper module" is the part shown in light blue in the image above.  It is designed to hold five of the wipers for the Bambu X1 or P1 series printers.  The changes include large holes for the small pegs on the base of the wipers, and a more aggressive clip design.  I'm gonna test the changes today, and if it works better, the update will be posted in the next couple days. 


Update 3/19/2025 - The updated wiper module was tested and holds the wipers more securely.  I've updated the 3mf profile and models over on MakerWorld, so you can find them here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636-bambu-labs-x1-p1-spare-parts-case-version-3-1

While I was running a prototype print today, to test an update to my Bento Style recirculating filter, I had a jam occur inside the AMS, after some wet PLA snapped as I was unloading the spool.  When there is a broken bit of material inside the AMS, it can be a pain to remove, sometimes requiring partial disassembly of the AMS or even the AMS internal hub.  There is a "trick" that I recently found to clear AMS jams though, and if it works, it can save a good bit of time.  The method I've been able to use is described below, but this method is not the recommended way to clear filament jams in the AMS, and therefore I have to add that this information is for educational purposes only, and if you follow what I did below, you do so at your own risk.  Additionally, this only works if the jam is inside the AMS, it will not work if the jam is outside the AMS or in the hotend. Also please use eye protection when working on printers, read the manual, don't eat the silica gel packets, etc...

This is the method I've used to clear filament jams inside the AMS, and sometimes it even works:

1. I remove the spool where the break occurred, and wait for the printer to stop trying to load/unload the filament.  There may be a red light on the feeder.  There may be an error message as well. 
2. I then disconnect the Bowden tube at the back of the AMS (this may require partly removing one of the center spools).  If another spool needs to be removed to access the disconnect, I avoid pulling the filament out for that spool.
3. Next I cut off a 16" length of filament, preferably PETG, but definitely not the same wet spaghetti PLA that broke in the first place.  The filament must be good material which can flex without cracking. 
4. I then install a good spool in the slot where the break occurred (not the wet spool), and then feed the filament in as far as it will go through the feeder tube for the slot, until it stops (just until it stops).
5. I next insert the length of good filament (the 16" section) into the back of the AMS where the Bowden was removed, until it stops, keeping some light pressure on it.  It's important to keep fingers far enough away from where the filament goes into the AMS, since the filament will get pulled in on the next step.  A short length of Bowden tube could also be attached to the AMS rear filament inlet to assist with this, but I've done it without needing a tube.
6. From the printer screen, I then attempt to unload the filament on the position where the break occurred.  While the printer is unloading, I keep light pressure on the filament that is fed into the rear of the AMS.  Making sure to keep fingers well away from the rear filament inlet on the AMS, as the filament is pulled into the AMS.
7. Once the AMS starts to draw in the 16" length of filament from the rear of the AMS, I let go of the filament being fed into the AMS.  The rest of the process is hands off.  Any weird noises at this point, I'd probably power off the printer and clear the jam the "correct" way.
8. I allow the filament attached to the good spool, which was fed all the way into the AMS slot to be pushed out.  I usually will try and grab the loose end as it gets ejected from the feeder, so it does not end up tangled.  Following it, should be the broken piece, which will then be followed by the length of good filament (about 16") which was fed in from the back of the AMS.  
9. Once the 16" piece of good filament is pushed out of the AMS (through the front feeder for the slot), the clog should be cleared (if the broken piece was previously ejected from the feeder in the prior step).
10. Finally, I will dry the spool that had the break, and then it can be reloaded into the same slot. It should be possible to continue printing at that point using the dry filament.

The TL;DR of this is that I use a section of filament from both sides of the break, which are pushed against the broken section of filament inside the AMS.  The AMS can then (potentially) unload the filament, and move the broken piece out when the internal hub and the feeder drive against the good sections of filament that "sandwich" the break.  If it works, the broken part will be driven out through the feeder, along with the good sections of filament used to drive the break though the AMS.

If that does not work, then the AMS will need to be disassembled to clear the jam.  It's not a bad idea to do that anyway, since it allows the internal Bowden tubes to be inspected for wear, and if the clog is inside the hub, the hub can also be cleaned out (it collects filament dust over time).  As with any off label work on a printer, I always try and be ready to shut off the printer, if things start making weird noises.  It hasn't happened yet, but a "plan B" is always a good idea.  

My "New Years Resolution" was to get several of my older designs back on track.  Some are updates to existing designs, and some are new (though stuck on the back burner), and one has been undergoing an uh... long term test, yeah, that's the ticket lol.  That last design is what I've been working on lately, and the one I want to get released next.  It's a Bento Box style recirculation filter, which I've been running in my Bambu X1C for about a year and a half now (without issues).  I know, what the heck, right? 

I probably should have released it long ago, but in the back of my head, there's been two things which have nagged at me regarding the design, and they are the complexity, and the cost.  I've gotten feedback on other unrelated designs, where folks reject the idea that they may be required to buy more hardware than they imagine is needed, and I get that (though I don't always agree).  For this filter design however (as I currently run it), I felt that would be a valid criticism, since it is expensive as I've built it.  When I calculated the current cost for the parts needed to build the filter, it ended up between $26.90 to $46.95, and that was based on the price for the actual parts only.  If building one of the filters, the costs would go up, since many of the parts can only be purchased in packs of 5 or more, so not ideal.  The lower end of that pricing is also based on AliExpress prices (the upper end is from Amazon).  Add the tariffs, and the fact that the de minimis rule will be going away soon, and the costs are only gonna be going up.  The end of de minimis just means the days of buying $20 worth of parts from AliExpress for a project, are going away (tariffs will add some, but a bigger problem is the approximately $30 plus customs "Merchandise Processing Fee" (MPF), that'll get tacked onto each order).  Likely prices on Amazon will also go up for many small parts too, since they're often sold by 3rd parties who rely on de minimis to keep prices low.  

So due to the high cost of the components, I've been making some changes to bring down the overall cost (at least an an option).  I think I could drop the parts cost to a more reasonable $20-ish, if the PWM fan control and fuse were deleted from the design, which are pretty simple changes.  Right now, I'm planning on a regular and a low cost build option, where the regular cost version will have all the bells and whistles (like the one I've been running for over a year).  The low cost option will use simple 2 wire 5020 blowers, an illuminated rocker switch, and a DC power inlet jack.  The WAGO's could be optional as well, if the connections were soldered instead.  The lower cost version will still need to be tested though, so I will need to pick up some 2 wire fans (or find some).  

Something else that needs some work is the name.  The current working name is Koraku, which is a variation on the "Bento Box" theme.  I've also thought about calling it MMM for "Marvin the Microparticle Machine", since it looks a bit disappointed with it's purpose in life.  I'm not really happy with either of those, so I may need to solicit some better name ideas on Reddit for the design (though that'd almost guarantee it'd be named Filter McFilterFace lol).

I wanted to add some pics, but the version I'm testing right now is still in parts and not done printing, so here are some of the version that I've been testing for over a year now.  The last pic of the CAD model is closer to the release version, and will be a bit taller, with a larger 2 tier carbon compartment, and a bit more room for wiring.  There will also be some small changes on the low cost version, which will swap the knob control with an illuminated toggle switch.  

Update 3/21/2025:  Some progress-ish to report on the recirc filter today.  I decided that it would open up some interesting ways to use it, if the filter had some expansion possibilities.  I don't know if these will be in the final design, since I don't have the parts to test them, but it's possible they could be options added later.  The base design should support a slide in module though.  The pics below show an untested prototype expansion module, which could possibly hold an ESP32-C3 and a DC-DC buck regulator (to drop 12v to 5v for the micro).  I think it could be possible to design a PCB carrier board to hold the modules as well, though I'm not planning to mess with Eagle (PCB design software) to attempt that right now.

Update 3/29/2025:  I decided to release the original model (which I am currently running) as the V1.0.  The changes seen above will be released as a new V2.0 version - which will NOT be backwards compatible with v1.0.  I just wanted to get it out now, since it has been ready for a while, but if you like any of the features seen above, I hope to get them out as a v2.0 version soon, which will be a bit taller than v1.0.

It's been a while since I posted any 3D prints, but there are a few things in progress.  The first is an update to the 1x2 Gridfinity Watch Case, which is currently designed to hold a "normal" size watch, and has a TPU liner in the top lid of the case.  I'm gonna update it to hold up to a 52mm wide watch, and the new design will also have a TPU liner in the top and base to better protect a larger watch.  I'm also considering adding a modular latch design to this case as well, though I don't know if it's really necessary.  This design has been fully test printed, but I need to get some pics and write it up before it will be posted.

Update 3/12/2025 - The Wider 1x2 Gridfinity Watch Case is now uploaded to MakerWorld, and you can find it here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1203806-gridfinity-1x2-wide-watch-case-version-3-0

The next update will be for the X1/P1 Spares Case, which will get a stronger door (on the version with a compartment in the base instead of the glue holders), an optional 5x full hot end holder, and modular latches.  The biggest deal for me are the modular latches, which I hope will resolve a rare (but annoying) problem some users have reported during assembly of the case.  They had cracked the base when they tried to latch the case, with latches that were too tight.  The problem was resolved by adding longer latch options, but modular latches will hopefully avoid the issue at the source, since the weakest part of the latch can now be printed in an orientation that will give it greater strength.

Update 3/12/2025 - The X1/P1 Spares Case has been update to v3.0.  You can find it over on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636-bambu-labs-x1c-spare-parts-case-version-3-0

​There are a few more things which are being worked on, but they are not as close to being released yet.

And finally, I thought I'd just add a pic of a clog I recently had to clear in the internal AMS hub on my Bambu X1C's AMS unit (pic below).  The process is described here, and the only things I'd add are that a toothbrush is great for cleaning the filament dust out, and that I took care not to disturb the orientation of the four small magnets near the pneumatic couplers.