After I posted the new Gridfinity Watch Holder (with space for desiccant), I realized that I have quite a few gridfinity watch related designs.  I thought it would be good to just put together a post with everything and a little explanation of each design, and then maybe update it again when I add more related stuff.  

The watch cases and holders have been an evolution, which I will also try and show here.  I could probably take down some of the older designs, however each may have advantages for different folks, so I left them up.

In chronological order (at least as well as I can recall it), starting with the cases, and then followed by the watch holders:

1. ​Gridfinity 1x2 Watch Case Version 2.1 (12U)
​As is indicated by the version, this was not the first design for a 1x2 watch case.  This design started with something similar, but was updated with small fixes and improvements.  With the TPU liner installed, this watch case is approximately 46.5mm in width, where the crown of a watch would typically sit.  Unlike the case #3 (below), this one only has a TPU liner in the lid, not in the base.

2. ​Gridfinity 3x2 Watch Case (12U)
​This is a three watch case, and currently the largest version that has been released. The width of each watch slot is 45.9mm for the center, and 46.8mm for the outside slots, at the approximate location where the crown would sit (if the watch is placed in the case facing front).  There is a bit more room if the watch is faced backwards.

3. ​Gridfinity 1x2 Wide Watch Case Version 3.0
​ It is a wider version of the earlier 1x2 v2.1 watch case, to hold larger watches.  This updated version also has a modular latch option, and a full TPU liner (top and base).  The inside width of the case is approximately 52.7mm.

​Next up are the watch holders, which are designed to work with the cases:

​
1. Gridfinity Watch Stand (remix)
This was the original remix of   Luocheng Huang's Gridfinity Watch Stand, which I modified to fit my  Gridfinity Watch cases.

2. Gridfinity Watch Stand (2nd remix)
​I don't recall what the difference was between the 2nd and 1st remixes, but I think it had to do with fitting larger watches in the cases.  Ther are very similar otherwise.

3. Gridfinity Watch Stand v3.0 for Larger Watches
This is the 3rd remix, and was the first to use a TPU cover, which really helped to better hold watches with fixed length bracelets.

4. Gridfinity Watch Stand - Watches with Large Bands
This 4th remix was designed for larger watches, especially ones with thick bracelets.  It has the watch moved slightly forward, so watches with thick bands will fit the cases more easily.  It is otherwise very similar to the 3rd remix.

5. Gridfinity Watch Stand with Desiccant Holder
The current version (5th remix), which includes three sizes of TPU covers (for small, medium and large watches), as well as a new compartment for holding desiccant, located in the center of the holder.  Each type of holder also now has a "tab" version, with a couple bumps which help support heavy watches (these can be seen in the 2nd and 3rd pics below).  This version should work for most folks, except those who have watches with very chunky bands (which #4 was designed for).  I plan to update that design (#4 for extra large watches with chunky bands) soon. to also include the desiccant holder feature.

6. Gridfinty Watch Stand with Desiccant Holder for Extra Large Watches
The only size watch holder that was not updated in design #5 (with a desiccant holder), was the version shown in #4.  This design will update #4 to the latest model. The last pic shows this new holder in case #3.  The watch by the way is an ADDIESDIVE Men's Diver's Watch (claimed to be 1000m), with a Seiko NH35 movement.  I picked mine up a while ago on AliExpress, but it looks like Amazon has them for $7 bucks more (currently $150).  It's a good chunk of a watch, but also quite nice, with decent lume and a sapphire crystal.  

A relative needed some mounts for a couple  Tapo T110 door sensors .  One of them is going on a garage door (right side in the pic), and it needs a special mount, and the other is going on a regular door (left in the pic), but and needs a spacer for the base and a 90° mount for the magnet.  They provide some really chunky double sided tape with these, and for some reason, they designed them to be flush mounted, instead of having the sensor mounted to a door jam and the sensor on the door (or vice versa).  That works great for things like sliding windows, but not so great for doors.  To address that, I designed a mount for the magnet, which can install on a door frame, and rotates the sensor 90°, along with a spacer for the sensor base (which will mount to the door in this case).  I think if they had just made the magnets rectangular, instead of the fancy rounded shape, they could be mounted in either orientation.  These mounts should be much more secure though, and will use VHB tape, instead of the thick 4mm foam tape that TP-Link provides.  There will also be screw hole options on the door mount and spacer.  

These will be tested soon, since they are keen to get their sensors installed.  Once I get done with some prints for the Voron  Spares Case, these will be next (printed in PETG).

Update: I think with enough VHB tape, any such mounting solution could work.  The door mount went smoothly, but the garage door mount sheared off on the first attempt.  After looking at the problem for a minute, I just moved the mount up one level on the door, and added more VHB tape to the mount that sits in the rail (which holds the magnet).  The rail mount was made a bit oversized, so I could add tape to adjust it, and it turns out I did need to adjust it.  The mount for the sensor on the other hand, could have used a few mm more clearance on the sides where it slips over the beam on the garage door, since I was not able to fit any tape there.  It has enough tape, but I think if I do release the design, it will have just a tad more space so some tape can be put on the sides to hold it a bit better.  I could just run a screw through it, and there would be no question about it moving (and I may do that once I am sure it works without issues).

I also added another custom mount to metal gate, but that one is probably too custom a solution to be worth posting.  I'm gonna tweak the designs a bit, and then will post them.  They will however be posted as-is with a note that they may not work for every application, but may work for some at least.

7/16/2025:  These have been posted over on MakerWorld, with the STEP to make remixing easier.
​
​https://makerworld.com/en/models/1613261-tapo-t110-sensor-mounts-with-step

One of my favorite and most useful projects has been a Battery Case for the TS-80 Soldering Iron.  It is easy to just grab it and go if I need to solder up something, and since it runs on a battery, the cable hassle is minimal.  But the one drawback has been that the battery is limited, so soldering time is as well.  That is not a big deal for most projects, but for larger ones it can be a limiting factor.  Most USB-C irons these days can use higher power as well, even as much as 100W on USB-C.  So the design is a bit long in the tooth, and updating it has been an idea kicking around in the back of my head for a while.

Today, I was looking at power banks, and thought it would be cool to find one that used LiFePO4 cells, and could do 100W out.  Unfortunately the typical power banks still mostly use regular Lithium Ion tech.  However, I found the "Aferiy Nano 100" power station, which upon the initial appearance I thought would be pretty big still, but after seeing some actual photos, it got me thinking - maybe it could be the perfect power source for a new portable soldering iron kit? 

Something to consider though, is that almost all the reviews on Amazon are "Vine" reviews, so they should be taken with a good sized "grain of salt".  Looking for other reviews, I found one from a "Jazzy" Aussie, who covered using the Nano 100 with USB-C soldering irons - and had a similar idea for using it as part of a portable soldering setup.  Note that the linked YouTube review was also done with a free unit, though the reviewer seems to know her stuff, so I feel it is more trustworthy than the Amazon Vine reviews.  Based on the video, it looks like it can easily handle the soldering irons, and has power for other stuff as well (like a buck converter).  It also has the capability to be recharged by solar, which could be cool (though there is no mention of MPTT and it appears limited to 12-26v max solar input).

I went ahead and ordered one for $50, since it checks most boxes for a portable solder station power supply.  I plan to start working on a portable solder station design, which will be based on my 4x4 16 Bin12U Gridfinity Box For Stuff Ver 3.3 design, and will fit the Nano100, with room for other stuff.  The design may (or my not) be gridfinity compatible, that will depend on how much space is left.  In any case, I plan to make it modular, so trays can be installed or swapped to fit different irons.  There may be a buck converter as well, if I can fit it.  Even if the project fails to be worth the effort, I think the Nano100 could be a cool power source for a portable soldering setup.

This could be a big project though, and is just at the idea forming stage right now.  When I get the Nano 100, the first thing I will need to do is to model the unit, and then will work on the other parts.  I'm not sure if I will initially design it for my old TS-80 iron (outdated and no longer sold), the TS101 (I own the similar TS100), the Pinecil, or maybe some other USB-C iron like the FNIRSI HS-02 (which I do not currently own, but looks really interesting).  There may be others as well that I am not aware of, but I don't think I will be buying a bunch of irons for this project, so will probably start with the one's I have on hand.

Update 7/11/2025:  I emailed FNIRSI to ask if they may have 3D models available for the HS-02A soldering iron.  If they will provide a model, I plan to design a holder for that iron to be used with this case.  I will probably pick up the HS-02A eventually, since it looks like a really good match for this design (the Nano 100 power station will output 100W (20V@5A)), but right now it's not quite in the budget.  The design will be modular enough however, that if I decide to add support for the HS-02A later (and could make a 3D model of it to use), it should be possible.

The Nano 100 power station also arrived, and I was able to see how well it may fit the case (which will be redesigned around it, but I was just getting an idea of the layout).  It's quite small for a power station (reminds me of an alarm clock lol), and the retracting USB cable is quite nice as well.  The Nano 100 is about as tall as a 12U gridfinity bin, but is a bit taller in practical use, since it is not gridfinity shaped lol.  The lid on the 4x4 gridfnity case therefore does not close, but it is close enough that I may be able to make the solder station case the same size, or possibly a mm to two taller.  In any case, it should have no problem being printed on an Ender3 or larger printer (the footprint is 196x214mm).  

There should also be plenty of room for the soldering iron, some supplies, and possibly something else (like a small USB powered fume extractor fan and a light).

Update 7/12/2025:  I think asking FNIRSI for something as odd as a 3D model of their product was a long shot at best.  I have not heard back from them (though it has only been 2 days so I still may).  But while researching the FNIRSI HS-02A, I found out about the Alientek T80P, which is much closer in appearance to my TS-80, but much more capable.  The T80P is a 100W iron with very positive reviews (really they both do), and is a bit more compact than the HS-02A.  Importantly, it was also less expensive than the HS-02A, which pushed me to bite the bullet, and order one.  I think I will base the design off the T80P and the Nano 100, possibly with a buck power supply and a small solder fume filter fan.  I have some other ideas kicking around for this design as well, but I think I may be trying to stuff too much into this case (we will see lol).    

Update 7/26/2025:  I received the Alientek T80P and it is very impressive.  It seems to work well with the Nano 100 

I saw a make of my  Bambu X1C Case  today, and noticed that the builder had made bins to replace some of the hotend modules in the X1C/P1 Spares Case.  It looked like a really cool idea, and was something I'd added as an option to the H2D spares case, but never circled back to do something similar on the X1C/P1 Case - until now.  Thanks to the inspiration of seeing the build, I took some time today and designed some bins.  These bins will be backwards compatible with the Bambu X1C/P1 Spares Case, and will use the same latch mechanism as the other bins in the case.  

I'm also planning to add some STEP models of remixable blank bins, so people can modify the modules if they want to make something more custom.  The cases will still be under the standard digital license, but the blanks which fit the bin slots will be remixable.  

I'm not sure if I will test these myself though, since I don't really need them.  I may release them as a stand alone model with the caveat that they are untested, if I do not run them to test myself.  Since they are based on the same bin design as the original hotend holder for the case, and the doors are a modification of existing designs which I have made and tested, I don't expect any problems with them.

Update 7/12/2025:  Thanks to Lexam over on MakerWorld for the idea for the side bins, and for running a test print of one of the prototypes.  Thanks to the feedback and collaboration on the bin module designs, the bins are ready.  I plan to release them soon, but while working on the bins, I decided to add some additional updates to the case design.  The first will be an update to the gasket (which is optional).  The updated design will have a new profile that may help with sealing.  The other update is an option to integrate an Apple AirTag into the case.  It will be installed in the otherwise unused space below the inside case label (with two MicroSD card slots).  Due to these updates, and the work required to update the description, I plan to release everything together, and that should give the design a bump to v3.2.  However if I run into issues with the gasket design, I may just release the bin modules first, and the other stuff will wait till any problems are ironed out.  

I'm also working on a more generic spares case, based on the X1/P1 and H2D Spares cases.  The generic case will be test printed as a Voron spares case, but it can easily be used for just about any printer.  I plan to release that design with no logos, or with the Voron logos.

Update 7/13/2025:  The X1C case update is still in progress, but since I have not yet test printed the changes, I decided to add a design to the case (which will be optional).  The design is slightly embossed, so it can be printed in 2 to 4 colors, and is only 3 layers deep, which should help, since a prime tower is not possible on this print (due to the size of the parts).  These should take somewhere around 8h to print in multicolor.

Update 7/21/2025:  The design done and I'm just fine tuning a few things and adjusting the profile.  The updated gasket design seems to work better than the current design, but it is still not perfect and after a 10 second dunking, it allowed a few drops of water into the case (pics show the inside, after dunking about 9" below the surface in a pool).  It should be fine against some splashes though.  After some discussions with another designer about the case, and testing the new gasket, I'm trying a tighter latch as well, which may seal tighter.  The goal however is not a waterproof seal, since that is very difficult with FDM, but water resistance would be nice.  Once I'm happy with everything, I will post it up.

Update 7/26/2025:  I'm still working on this, but the scope of the updates has gotten a bit bigger.  I completely reworked the hotend holders and am now testing that update.  I also added and tested some 0.2mm tighter latches with both the updated gasket design and the non-gasket lids.  Everything so far has worked, and once I get the new hotend bins tested, I will get this design posted over on MakerWorld.  

7/30/2025:  I found a potential problem with the new gasket design, so reworked it (again), and am running another test print.  I'm gonna have so many printer cases, I may need to buy more printers to go with them :D  Really though, I may just need to find some good homes for some of them, since I really will have no use for 'em.

I've also completely re-worked the hotend bins, and ran some tests of those.  I did see a small problem with that design as well, but I'm not sure if it was the print or something else.  I plan to run another set to be sure, before I decide what to do with them.  

I'm hoping for this project to be done this week, but I've missed my deadlines before so I'm just gonna say that it will be done when it's ready (which will hopefully be this week).

8/2/2025:  The small problem I mentioned previously (with the hot end bins), is something that is indeed pretty small - so small I had never noticed it till now.  It is related to the way the bin modules are secured with screws on one side.  I noticed a very slight rocking in the smaller bin, when it is screwed down.  To fix that, I tried a number of things, and got the rocking down to almost zero, but I'm not sure if that fix will work for everyone, so I'm gonna try something more extreme.  I am working on a clean slate re-working of the bin design and the base of the case, which has the unfortunate downside of breaking backwards compatibility for the base and bins.  I do however plan to update all the bins to the new design, so nothing will be lost going forward.  I'm gonna have to reprint another case though, to test everything out, along with several more bins.  I would rather waste some filament on my end though, than see folks run a long print and have problems.  I think this will take a bit longer than expected (probably another week).

8/5/2025: I "think" that the final design is done, and am printing (hopefully) the last prototype base to test it.  There are a number of small optimizations with this update, and they are seemingly simple changes, but with 3D printing the devil is in the details.  My bucket of failed prototypes runneth over, but I hope that all the testing will save some headaches later (and keep folks from wasting even more plastic than I have lol).  Some of the changes were small fractions of a mm differences, and others were more considerable (like the gasket and bin designs).  The new pattern option is something I really feel is a cool feature as well, and even though it takes a bit longer, I'm using it on this prototype as well.  The profile name shows v3.1, however this will be a v4.0 update to the case, since so many changes were made to the design, that it is no longer backwards compatible for many of the key parts. 

Once the Bambu case design is done and the changes are fixed in place, I plan to update the new Voron case with the same changes.  The H2D spares case and my other similar cases will probably get similar updates in the future as well (but I need to get back to other projects before I can update those designs with the same changes).  Once an update is finalized for one case, they are generally quick to roll out to the other similar cases, but even so, the testing and prototyping of the changes for the other cases are what will take the bulk of the time to get done.  I also don't have much use for so many of these cases, so I need to figure out what to do with all the successful prototypes.

8/19/2025:  I finally got the last of the test prints done, and the last parts tested for fit, and everything seems to work well.  So today I spent a couple hours polishing up the 3mf profile (which has 25 plates).  This is a big job due to all the parts which have changes, and many of which need to be exported in a way that they maintain their orientation (which makes painting much simpler). 

Now I have to write the whole thing up, and get it posted.  I'm thinking about removing the older files, since they are probably just causing clutter, and possibly confusion.  I will also move the changelog to a separate webpage for the same reason.  My goal will be to make the description less daunting, with more a more concise build guide that will fit in the description.  This is my least favorite part lol.

The image below shows the print profile from Bambu Studio, with the plates which share parts color coded together.  The color codes are not the best, but there will also be a guide with what the options are, and the plate numbers required to make them.  For example, to make a lid with a gasket, the plates 2 (or 22 depending on which pattern is needed), and plates 6 and 7 are required.  The reason why I said plate 2 or 22 is because there will be 2 design patterns available, with one pattern being common to plates 1 through 4 and a second pattern on plates 21 through 24.  The two design options are not seen in the image, since they are on the outside of the cases, but they are similar to what's pictured below.

8/27/2025:  It's finally done, you can find the version 4.0 models over on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1738817-bambu-labs-x1-p1-spare-parts-case-version-4-0#profileId-1847650

For all the Dummy 13 fans out there, here's a preview of a design for a "Dummy 13 Dino Safari Pack", which I plan to post in the next week.  It's taken a small bucket full of prototypes to get things just right, but I'm printing what I hope will be the final version now.  I plan to enter it in the "Dino Safari" contest when it's ready.  

The friendly dino buddy in the pics is IDMyron's "BITING T-REX (MULTIPART PRINT)"

Update 7/11/2025:  The Dummy 13 Dino Safari Pack is now uploaded to MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1595386-dummy-13-dino-safari-kit-card#profileId-1680655