I received an email from Bambu for a refer a friend promotion where they give the friend a 9% discount on a printer, and Bambu will send a 3-6% gift card to me as well.  It's a pretty decent promotion for everyone involved.  Unfortunately I don't know anyone in the market for a 3D printer right now, so I thought I would offer it to any of my Internet "friends" who visit this site.

I will send the referral link to the first person to send me an Private Message on MakerWorld, who asks for the link.

According to the terms of the referral program, the referral discount applies to most of their printers and printer combos such as the X1C, P1S, A1 and A1 Mini, and combos. 

HOWEVER, the referral discount does NOT apply to the H2D, H2S or P1P printers (or the H2D, H2S and P1P combos).  It also does not apply to the X1E (their enterprise version of the X1), which is only sold through their partner channels, as far as I know.

They only gave one referral code to me, though I think they may send another if the first one gets used (but I heard they are limited). 

Bambu has several stipulations for the referral discount program, which you can read all about in their terms here:

https://us.store.bambulab.com/policy/pages/referral-policy

Based on my reading of the terms (and I am not a lawyer), some of the highlights are:

• Once the referral link is claimed, it cannot be re-used, even if the first person to claim it decides not to purchase a printer with the link within 7 days of activating the offer. 
• The referral link they sent me is for their US store only. 
• The 9% discount can not be stacked with any other discounts (such as the $10 off they offer for new customers). 
• The referee (that is the person using the referral code) must be 18 years or older.
• Once the referral link is claimed, it is good for only 7 days.
• The referral discount is only valid on X1C, P1S, A1 and A1 Mini printers, and printer combos (not the H2D or H2S).
• Each order can apply only one referral discount code, and it can be used for the purchase of only one 3D printer. 
• Program Ends at: 2025/09/30 22:00 (Beijing Time, UTC+8)
  

I cannot make any guarantees that the code will work for any particular order, since Bambu has full discretion on that.  So if the referral discount link does not work when checking out for some reason, I will not be able to assist.  Please read the terms of their offer to make sure it will work for you, before considering requesting the referral discount link.  

So after reading all that, if you are looking to buy a Bambu printer, and would like to get the 9% off referral link (while also supporting this site, and my various 3D printing adventures at the same time), just send me a private message over on MakerWorld.  I only have the one code right now, so the referral link will be given to the first of my US based Internet "friends" out there, who send me a private message requesting the referral on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/@mystoopidstuff

Just say "Hey buddy, can you send me the referral link for the US store?" or something like that :D

The button to private message is right next to the "Follow" button, over on MakerWorld on the left side of my profile page (which is also linked above):

I will try and check my PM's at least once a day. Once I've given my one and only referral link to a "friend", I will update this post that it has been claimed.

Thanks, and ​Happy Printing!

As of 9/7/2025 I still have a referral link to give out, for 9% off one of the printers in the promotion.

I've seen other makers who I greatly admire, organizing their workspaces with Ikea Skådis pegboards, but hadn't had time or the inclination to attempt to try and organize my workspace in a similar way, until recently.  I'm trying to break the old habit of confusing "storage" with "organization", since I've realized (too late), that putting stuff in drawers is the surest way to forget where it is when I need it.  The beauty of using pegboards, is that it's hard to forget where something is, when it's staring me in the face.  I recently posted about how I made some Skådis pegboards and mounts, and after installing them, I decided to make some bins, drawers and tool holders for my stuff.  Most of the things I'm using are stuff I made, but there are a couple that were remixed as well.  I also found some cool designs which fit some of my tools (specifically holders for the IWISS tool holders by Reitangle over on Printables). 

Currently I've filled up two pegboards with bins, drawers, holders and tools, and have a new project for adding one to a kitchen.  I'm not sure when these will get posted or how, but I think this is gonna be an ongoing side project for a while at least.

8/30/2025: There were a couple designs which I previously had taped to a cabinet with 3M Command Strips, but needed to move over to a Skådis pegboard which was going to be placed in the same location, so I reworked them a bit.  These have not been updated with the changes, but the model for the label dispenser can be found on MakerWorld.  I guess I have not posted the Equal holder though, so will add that to the growing list of stuff to do.  I also designed a sharpie holder, which holds 2 pens, but did not grab a good pic of that one.

I'm also working on the drawers.  The base design is completed, but I decided it would be cool to have handles which can be printed separately (in a different color), or even customized.  The handles will also help to lock in the labels, though they stay in well enough regardless of a handle being installed or not.  The handles will require a bit more work to add to all the types and sizes of drawers I've designed so far, but I first need to fully test the fit of them.  The last pic below shows one of the latest prototype drawers with the separate handle.

9/5/2025:  I feel the general design for the Skådis drawers is complete, but I have not yet posted it.  The one issue with the drawers is making printed labels for them.  Using the slicer can be a bit tricky, since it lacks tools to align text, and adding text from a CAD app is even more of a challenge when there are many labels to make.  That is why I'm now looking at simplifying the labels into a template that would would with the MakerWorld (MakerLab actually) "Make My Sign" tool.  I've used that tool in the past to make some name plates for a symposium, and it worked out really well.  The workflow for those included merging the generated nameplates with a custom model for a nameplate, but for these labels, I think everything can be done within the MakerLab tool.  I'm currently running some tests to proof this out, and if it works well, I should be able to create the four templates required to fit all the different drawer sizes.  Then it will just be a matter of sharing the template when I post the drawers, and then folks can easily create nameplates using the "Make My Sign" tool.  

​Something that was a bit problematic with this process however, is that my CAD program will not properly export 2D shapes as a single "path" when exporting to .SVG.  It instead dumps a bunch of "polyline" statements into the .svg it exports.  It is also missing the "viewBox" parameter.  The "Make My Sign" tool does not like that, which is understandable, since the polylines do not create a closed path.  And since my exported .SVG files were not a single continuous "path", I was failing to import my svg's as a baseplate in the "Make My Sign" tool. 

​The fix was to export the shapes as an STL, then import that STL into TinkerCAD, and then export the STL as an SVG from TinkerCAD.  Thanks to Xombieparts over on Reddit for the suggestion to use TinkerCAD to export to SVG.  

The other, and much smaller issue, was that when importing the .svg into MakerWorld, the dimensions get scaled to about 4/3rds of the original, and need to be rescaled based on the actual dimensions.  This is not a huge problem, but something I need to be mindful of when setting up the templates.  My first test print of a label was about 10mm too narrow to fit the drawer, but I think I may have it properly sized now, and am running a second test print for a label using the "Make My Sign" tool.

9/6/2025:  Now that the process to get a working SVG file has been sorted out, I went ahead and created "Make My Sign" templates over on MakerWorld, for all the bins and drawers which I've designed so far.  I'm testing some of them now.  I think using the "Make My Sign" tool will be a big time saver for making printed labels, and fortunately there wasn't much that needed to be changed in the design.  

Since the announcement of the H2S, I wanted to get the H2D Spares Case and the H2D Gridfinity Bin Hotend Holders updated to work with the new printer.  The H2D and H2S have mostly the same spare parts from what I can tell, except for the cutters, which are the same as the X1/P1/A1 series on the new H2S (while the H2D uses a cutter with a yoke design).

The H2D spares case now has a new "H2S" label option, along with a new "small" module option which carries four cutters for the H2S.  All the prior H2D parts are still there, I just added some new ones to make it possible for the new H2S owners to use the same case by printing some alternate parts for it.

The H2D and H2S Spares Case can be found over on Makerworld at the link below:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1331229-bambu-h2d-and-h2s-spare-parts-case-version-1-1#profileId-1369592

The H2D Gridfinity Hotend Holder 2x3 Bin was also reworked to accommodate the H2S cutters.  To do this, I just swapped in the tried and tested X1/P1/A1 cutter holder design, in place of the H2D cutter holders.  It still holds 4 cutters as well, they are just the H2S compatible cutters.  I also had to move one of the screws that holds the module into the bin, so I decided to make the H2S Gridfinity Bin a separate design.

The new H2S Gridfinity Hotend Holder 2x3 Bin can be found over on MakerWorld at the link below:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1741020-h2s-gridfinity-spares-2x3-6u-bin

I just posted the Bambu x1/P1 Spares Case Ver 4.0 over on Makerworld today.  You can find it here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1738817-bambu-labs-x1-p1-spare-parts-case-version-4-0#profileId-1847650

My CR filter stopped working a couple months ago, and I suspected it may have been the PWM controller (which is the only active piece of electronics in the thing).  At the time, I tested the fuse (for continuity) and it was good, and then decided I'd order a spare PWM controller to have on hand and then get back to fix it "sometime".  Well "sometime" was today.  I first rechecked the fuse (again for continuity), and then proceeded to disconnect the controller. and found it was reading 13v at the input (as it should), but only 4.2v on the output (which was strange).  4.2v is not enough to turn the fans over, but it was enough to glitch the LED ring when I turned the PWM controller on.  The controller also had a red activity LED when turned on (which was correct for these).  Next I decided to check the resistance in the power lines, which run from the DC inlet, through a fuseholder, and then up to the PWM controller.  The meter read almost no resistance on the positive but had 14 Ohms on the negative (so I was starting to get somewhere).  Unique to the negative line is the fuseholder, so I tested resistance from the terminals of the holder back to the PWM controller, and it was low as it should be.  And then I got the bright idea to check the resistance on the fuse, which was... 14 mother-trucking Ohms.  If it had just blown, the problem would'a been solved months ago, but it somehow just decided to get all difficult (for electrons to pass through). 

Swapping the fuse fixed the problem, but unfortunately for me, I cut a few of the wires during the "troubleshooting", and had to re-solder them up before I buttoned the whole thing back up.  I'm sorry I doubted the little PWM controller too, it was running like a champ, just like the one I put in my Bento Box clone filter (which has been running for well over a year off and on when I run prints).  Troubleshooting things did give me a few ideas to make it much easier to work on though, which would be implemented in any future designs for these types of filters.

I also discovered that the filter was definitely working, since the inside was dusty as heck (I stupidly set it up to pull dirty air in and exhaust clean air, vs the opposite - and smarter way of setting these filters up). 

I had thought the CR filter project was sort'a a bust, but now I'm reconsidering if it may actually be a success given how much dust was apparently stuck in the filters.  I guess every cloud of dust has a silver lining.  

A while back I did a remix of MandicReally's "Voron Y Endstop Relocation w/ PG7 Cable Gland Mount".  The purpose of the remix is to allow it to be used with the Linneo cable harness, which uses a (CNLinko) square flange mount with 4x M2x10 FHCS screws (with 13x13mm spacing), instead of a standard PG-7 cable gland. The cable "guard" cover is also thickened to approx 2.4mm, but otherwise it is identical to the original design:

https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Voron%20Y%20Endstop%20Relocation%20w%2F%20PG7%20Cable%20Gland%20Mount-910854

The modification was suggested and tested by Steiner-Se over on Printables, who was planning to use a Linneo cable harness on a 2.4 R2 build (with the LDO Nitehawk-SB USB Tool Head). 

I'm currently working on a mod to allow swapping in a PG7 mount (going full circle lol), which is shown in the last 2 pics.  

The PG7 panel mount adapter is now posted (in two sizes, 8mm and 11mm heights).  The height was changed a bit since the last images were posted, but it looks the same otherwise.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1706533-pg7-cable-gland-panel-mount-adapter-m12-threaded#profileId-1810361

My to-do list seems to be growing every week, despite working quite a few hours on the most important ones.  It didn't help this week that I took a quick detour to get some IKEA Skådis pegboards made, so I can reconfigure my workspace and hopefully get some things organized.  To that end, I picked up a pair or 40 bin steel organizers (with plastic bins), and I have to say I am impressed.  They were not cheap, and really put a dent in the budget, but on a cost per bin basis, I could justify it over other solutions.  I was worried they'd get dented up in shipping, but they were double boxed, and the steel is a reasonably sturdy gauge with some internal bolsters even.  I've already managed to fill all 80 of the bins in the two organizers.  I think they will help me find the common things I need for projects, a bit easier.

In order, here are my (current) top 5 projects, and one side quest:

1. Update the Bambu X1/P1 Toolbox with a new gasket design, as well as a new bin design, and some additional latching bin modules for the base (thanks to Lexam over at MakerWorld for the inspiration).  The hotend bins are also completely redesigned (though they still look similar, they are re-done to gain some extra space for wires (and fingers).
   Status: Completed and uploaded to MakerWorld on 8/28/2025:
   
   Bambu Labs X1 & P1 Spare Parts Case (Version 4.0)
   
   
2. An all new "Generic Printer" Toolbox, which is being tested in parallel with the Bambu X1/P1 Toolbox.
   Status: Completed and uploaded to MakerWorld and Printables on 10/11/2025:​
   
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1879290-printer-took-kit-v1-0#profileId-2012201
   
   https://www.printables.com/model/1438284-printer-took-kit-v10
   
   
3. Update the Bento Clone to v2.  This project should have been done months ago, but I lost some of the parts I needed and just recently re-ordered (and received) some more.  This update will add a sensor and MCU module insert to the design, which will allow some expansion possibilities.
   
   Status: I have all the parts, but need to re-print some of the pieces and then test the completed design.  
   
   
4. Update the Bambu X1 Riser Light.  This update is going to add some flip up arms to help vent the lid, along with a PIR sensor for the LEDs and a new label design.  I've been thinking about adding something else to the design, but I don't know if I will have the time for it.
   
   Status:  This is mostly printed, but requires assembly and testing.  I need to inventory what non-printed parts I have, and what I still need.  I will likely need to order some additional parts to test it fully.
   
   
5. Finish the design and testing of a printer exhaust inline boost fan.  I had previously designed an inline fan to help vent an X1 printer by basically sucking the air out the back where the normal exhaust fan is located.  The exhaust fan on the X1 is not sufficient to move air through a HEPA or even exhaust it through a hose, so this fan is designed to assist it to move the exhaust out through a 2.5" hose (or a HEPA filter).  The design is pretty much done, but the latest iteration requires testing.  
   
   ​Status:  The designs are done for the most part, and I've assembled a couple prototypes, but I need to tear one of them down and steal parts to test what I hope is the final version.  The first (or maybe it was the second) prototype is just sufficient, so an updated version will hopefully improve the static pressure with a 2nd fan.  Of all the designs listed, this one seems like the juice may not be worth the squeeze, though I may find it useful even if I don't end up posting it.

And finally, the side quest is to finish loading up my freshly printed Skådis pegboards, which will mean using a mix of designs from MakerWorld or Printables, along with some of my own designs.  I will have to see what I need, but have so far designed a couple of bins to hold a few of my multimeters.  One of them is designed for my Zoyi XT-703S Multimeter Oscilloscope, which is really a cool tool though I often prefer my simpler multimeter which I'm not afraid to drop lol.  These bins will be 100mm and 140mm wide, with some swappable labels.  There will probably be more sizes, as I decide what tools I want to be most easily accessible.  

This list is subject to change if I really need to get something else done, but I wanted to put it down here, since I have a number of stalled projects for lack of parts or some other reason or another.  And to be honest, putting together a polished profile and a description with instructions is the part I usually struggle with.  I enjoy designing, but all the stuff that goes along with uploading and supporting a design can seem like work, more than a fun hobby.  Still it's cool when I can finally upload a design and say it's "done" (at least for now lol).  
​

A Bit Further Down the Road...

There are other projects that are still in the pipeline (I have a whiteboard tracking 14 of them, including the above).  The ones here are just the ones I really want to (finally) get "done", so I can move on to other stuff.  I'm also not going to let this list stand in the way of making small things for around the house or for friends, since those are usually very quick projects, many of which are so specific or unique that they never get posted. 

Once I get a few of these knocked out, I have an idea kicking around to design a much larger printer enclosure, capable of holding four H2D's.  There are a couple paths I'm looking at for such a design, with one being a "high end" option, similar to my current enclosure, which has served me well so far.  The lower end option would probably use a steel shelf unit as a basis for the design, which would save a considerable amount of money, but sacrifice some stability (though it would probably be sufficiently robust, when back and side panels are added).

I've done a bit of preliminary design work to get an idea of prices and possible materials, but right now it is way out of my budget for a speculative project.  The "high end" version would look similar to my current enclosure, and use some IKEA components, but would of course be much larger.  But the cost in materials for that design is prohibitive, around $1500 due to the extrusions (which would eat up 2/3rd's of that amount).  I also don't own even one H2D, let alone four of them lol.  But It would be cool to have a big enclosure, since it would allow me to put some of my older printers back in service (and possibly even the Voron).  One of the problems I have with prototyping is that I have to wait hours to test one part, while I may have several that need to be tested as part of a design, so getting my older printers running could help with that.  I also eventually plan to get an H2D (or H2S if it is significantly less expensive), so will need an enclosure for it unless my X1C gets booted from it's home, the same way it previously booted the CR10S Pro :D    

I'm doing some recombobulation of my workspace, and decided to add some pegboards.  There seems to be a lot of IKEA Skådis hooks, so I decided to give that system a try.  I don't plan to post these (it would be too big a project to support), but if you are looking for something similar, these look pretty good.  I wanted something that did not require as many mounts or screws though, so designed one with printed interlocking parts (in green and blue in the pics).  The plan is to assemble the panels and then mount them with corner mounting adapters.  The plates take about 4h each to print, so this will take a while.  But I have already printed three of them, and the connections are really solid, even without glue (which I plan to add).

This is just a side project though, and the Bambu and Voron spares cases are still the top priority to get released (this next week however will be busy with unrelated stuff).

8/13/2025:  Quick update on this, the prints are half done and one of the two panels I need is completed.  The panel seems pretty strong with the connectors (which were superglued in place).  I'm sure it will hold the small tools I plan to install on it without a problem, but I would not use it for anything really heavy like large power tools.  

I was looking for a mounting solution, and none of the designs on MakerWorld or Printables really had everything I was looking for, so I just designed some from scratch.  I've printed a few as tests, and they seem to work well enough, though they can be a bit tricky to get the caps on the first couple times.  The design should allow me to just set up the panel with the connectors, then once it is level, I can drill the pilot holes.  Then I just remove the connectors and install the mounting screws in them and mount them to the wall.  The connectors are then aligned with the panel and the caps are screwed on to hold it.  That seems like a lot of steps, but it should be much simpler than printing templates and a bunch of measuring to locate the screw holes on the wall.  These wall connectors may also be useful to connect panels together, if they were combined with some simple brackets.

Here are some pics of the connectors installed on the Skådis board I printed.  It's mounted to the side of a bookcase with #6  3/4" wood screws.

But now I have another idea on how to make the design even simpler to use and print...

8/15/2025:  The new version of the mount is done and tested.  I swapped out the earlier version with these, and I think they will be much stronger, as well as simpler.  When I removed the old mounts to install the new version, a few broke, so I'm happy I didn't keep using them.  

I felt that the updated design for the mounts was worth posting, so I uploaded them to MakerWorld.  The design includes the basic mounts with a 6mm and 10mm height, as well as 3M Command Strip versions of the same.  I do not however plan to upload the design for the Skådis boards at this time, so these are just the mounts:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1701525-simple-ikea-skadis-wall-mounts#profileId-1804463

8/30/2025:  I was able to fully test the 3M Command Strip mount with a Skådis pegboard which I put up on a kitchen cabinet.  It seems to be working as planned, and I installed it by peeling back the tape on the Command strips about half way, with the backing folded so it stuck out from the side.  I then leveled it and stuck the entire board in place with the mounts (and Command Strips).  Then I pressed down the top mounts to set them in place, and pulled the backing paper out from the sides.  It worked pretty well and did not require a bunch of measuring or marking to preposition the mounts.