​You can also find information on registering to vote in each state, from the National Association of Secretaries of State (https://www.nass.org/can-I-vote). 

The NASS site also has a pdf document with Election Dates and Deadlines by State:

https://www.nass.org/sites/default/files/reports/election-dates-deadlines-august2024.pdf
​

I recently picked up the cheapest (gasless) MIG welder (that I could find) on Amazon for $47.99 after coupon (40D3IP48).  I know, it feels weird referring to a flux core wire feed welder as a "gasless" MIG, but it seems to be the accepted shorthand for what these things are.  I haven't welded in years, but I have some projects I need one for, so I planned to use it to knock those out, and then and write a review here for it.  However, when the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" arrived a couple days late, I immediately knew something was up.  The box had too much tape on it, and it smelled like a used welder.  Inside the box, the welder looked mostly OK, however the feet were dirty, and the stick holder was gritty and scratched up.  Whoever sent it back, either used it for a project and sent it back (without bothering to clean it up), or it had a problem, and the welder was somehow placed back in the mix of new products.  Either way, it's not my problem anymore.  I just took some pics, boxed it up and drove it back to UPS.  Dealing with whatever caused the last person to use it and then return it, is not worth the hassle.  

It sucks a bit though, since I still need a welder.  As for the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140", it actually seemed pretty nice on paper and mostly OK in person (it's an inverter with synergistic wire feed).  I didn't bother to turn it on or test anything, since it was going back.  So about all I can say about it is that it's compact and lightweight, it has the same MIG torch as all the other lower end MIG welders, the ground clamp looked OK, and the label inside the side cover (for the wire spool and feeder compartment) had some recommended settings, but it was very small fine print, and difficult to read.  The settings table also did not make much sense, based on the settings shown on the knobs.  The used stick holder was beefy, and would definitely do the job (and probably did, LOL), but it was nothing special of course.  There were a couple spare tips, but I did not see any wire drive rollers (aside from the one already installed).  There was also no spool of wire, which I don't think was supposed to be included, but seeing how it was used, the last person may have forgotten to put it back in the box.
 
I think the settings could be deduced from a bit of educated guesswork, and some trial and error fine tuning, but it would be nice if they included a copy of the settings in the manual (which did not have a table for them).  For less than one portrait of US Grant though, it was probably a bargain, if it were actually a new welder.  But I don't feel like rolling the dice again, even though it's unlikely I would get another used welder.  So I'm back to searching for a decent (and cheap) MIG (gas or gasless) inverter welder.  Normally "decent" and "cheap" would not go together, but there seems to be plenty of imported inverter MIG welders out there in the sub $100 to $160 range. 

The Bestarc MIG145 is at the top of my list right now, but I have yet to find any info on it's warranty (I emailed them to ask, and will update this post with what I find out).  The Bestarc MIG welders seem to be heavily promoted to YouTubers lately, which is not by itself a negative, but it does make me a bit skeptical.  I have yet to see one review which mentioned anything negative, or mentioned what the warranty is on the units.  A few of the videos are a bit comical as well, with some of the folks who received free welders, clearly not bothering to skim the manual, and struggling because of it. 

​Most of the cheaper MIG welders are limited to 2lb spools, which is plenty for small projects that I'd use it for, but notable since they do cost more per pound of wire.  The very low end welders are also gasless (so they require flux core wire).  Flux core is a bit nasty and more expensive, but fine for running outdoors (with a mask).  A gas setup is cleaner, but also expensive and heavy.  It would easily cost as much, or even double the cost of the welder, to use gas, depending on how the tank is sourced.  For me, gas is a "nice to have", but not worth more than 30-40 bucks to have the option, since I will likely not use it.  One small downside (in my opinion) of the Bestarc MIG145 (and the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140"), is that they have non-removable MIG torches.  The "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" is also missing any strain relief for the torch.  The torch is one part that I'd like to be able to swap out if needed, without tearing down the machine.  But that is more of a "later on" problem, since the included torches seem OK.

Update 9/26/2024: I contacted Bestarc about the warranty on their MIG welders and they got back pretty quickly.  They said that the warranty is for one year, and support is provided by the seller.  I was also advised that if there is a "quality problem" during the warranty period, the buyer and seller would negotiate how to repair the welder or return it (which may be an expensive proposition if the buyer has to foot the shipping bill - though also sadly typical).  They noted that outside the warranty period, the seller "can" provide technical support.  I asked them if I purchase the welder from the Bestarc Store on Amazon, would  I be able to work directly with Bestarc on warranty or technical issues, since it would seem they would be the seller.  I'm waiting for confirmation on that question, and will update here when I find out.

So the warranty situation for Bestarc is not great, but it's probably about average for lower end imported welders (I should point out though, that the inexpensive "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" also claims a 1 year warranty).  For comparison, YesWelder states a 1-3 year warranty (1 year on their least expensive MIG welders, of course), and ArcCaptain offers a 2 year warranty on MIG welders .  Those warranty terms appear to be for purchases from their own web storefronts however.  For YesWelder I also found warranty terms on TractorSupply, which are similar. I could not find warranty terms for Bestarc, YesWelder or ArcCaptain on Amazon however.  The warranty terms for YesWelder and ArcCaptain warranties are also oddly similar, for what it's worth.  To their credit, YesWelder and ArcCaptain both provide their warranty terms on their site (for direct purchases from their own stores at least), which I could not find on the Bestarc site.

The requirement to deal with the seller could be a problem, since the warranty or technical support can only be as good as the seller the welder was purchased from, and who knows what their level of knowledge or ability will be.  For what it's worth, I've seen Bestarc stuff on sale at AliExpress from multiple sellers (which I'd avoid, due to the warranty and tech support going through the seller).  In my opinion, the manufacturer should provide the support directly to the customer, at least when bought from authorized dealers.  Hopefully Bestarc will provide direct support to customers if they purchase a welder from their Amazon storefront, otherwise I will have to keep looking.  I will update when I get a reply on that question from them. 

Doh!  And now I'm kicking myself for not asking Bestarc for their full warranty terms.  Oh well. 

Update 2 9/26/2024:  Bestarc support replied, but asked for a copy of my receipt.  Clearly there is a miscommunication, so I explained that I have not yet purchased, and asked if I buy a welder from the Bestarc Amazon Store, if the warranty and technical support will go through Bestarc, or some other party.   I also asked for the full warranty terms for their welders, which really should be easily available for potential buyers to look at.

The problem with warranties which do not go through the manufacturer, is that they can end up being a game of finger pointing between the seller and the manufacturer, where the customer loses or is just worn down.  It also looks like some companies put the costs of warranty and technical support onto the seller (who has already made their money from the sale).  Hopefully buying from the "company store" will allow a customer to deal directly with the manufacturer, and avoid some of the hassles of dealing with middlemen.  So "why don't you just buy the extended warranty through Asurion?" you may ask?  Well, it looks like Asurion is going through some restructuring, and doing layoffs, so I'd rather not take the chance (more discussion about that on Reddit).  Something that can help though, is to buy with a credit card that extends the warranty, since that is free(ish), and could give an extra year or two over what the manufacturer offers.

And now I see that there is a sale on the Bestarc MIG 145 gas and gasless welders.  The gas welder is actually $5 more expensive than it was yesterday (after a $30 off coupon) at $145, however the gasless welder is a pretty decent deal at $95 (IIRC it was $125 after a $25 off coupon yesterday).  I'm probably gonna pick up the gasless welder at that price, and hope that Bestarc does directly support buyers from their Amazon Store (which would make the most sense).  Of course, I hope that I never need warranty support LOL.

Update 3 9/26/2024:  Well I'm a sucker for a deal, so I bought the Bestarc MIG 145 (gasless) welder for $95 bucks (without any of the Asurion plans of course).  The welder is on sale until 23:30 EST today, if you are interested in checking it out as well.  When it gets here, and I can use it, I will post some pics and a review (for the MIG functions, since I don't have any experience with stick welding).  I will also update on the warranty terms (at least when buying from the BestArc Amazon Store), when I get the info.

Edit - the sale is now over, so the gasless MIG 145 is now $105 (after $25 off coupon), but the regular (gas or gasless) MIG 145 is down to $140 after a $30 coupon (which is a better deal than yesterday's Lighting Deal). 

Update 4 10/3/2024:  I last sent Bestarc support an email on 9/29 (correction) to ask about the full warranty terms when buying from their Amazon storefront, but I have not received any answer yet, so I sent them another email.  This should not be that difficult honestly, but I've bought the welder so hopefully I won't need their support anyway.  I've not had time to test it yet, but I did check the box and everything looks good and they include a spare drive roller.  IIRC the rollers are a 0.8 and 0.9mm and a 0.8 and 1.0mm, with both being knurled which is the preferred type for fluxcore.  The packaging and the welder look really nice and compact.  I'm hoping to be able to test it out this weekend. 

The one issue I have with it (without testing it again), is the same problem that most small welders have - how to store all the cables?  So I'm working on a possible solution to the cable management mess, at least for my welder, which of course will use 3D printing.  If it works out, I will post some more info on that in another post probably.  

​I picked up a few TP-Link Tapo Cameras and also a few Energy Monitoring Smart Plugs, which are on sale at Amazon currently (with the lowest prices historically, according to CamelCamelCamel).  Tapo seems to be the name of TP-Link's newer smart home devices, although they are still selling the Kasa line of similar devices.  Many of the TAPO devices are "Matter" compatible, which means they will work with Alexa, Google, Samsung SmartThings and Apple Homepod.  I'm no expert on smart home stuff, but I found a link which indicates that both Kasa and Tapo devices can also work with Home Assistant.  I am pretty impressed with the value of these smart home cameras and switches though.

As far as the sale is concerned, I picked up several Tapo cams and smart power switches, since they are the lowest prices ever according to CamelCamelCamel's price history:

• Tapo P115 Power Monitoring Smart Plugs (4-Pack) $27.99 (before a $5 off coupon and another 25% off if using the Amazon Prime credit card to check out).
• Tapo C120 2K WIFI (only) Indoor/Outdoor Camera $27.99
• Tapo C520WS 2k WIFI or Wired Indoor/Outdoor Pan and Tilt Camera with a Starlight Sensor $54.99
• Tapo C310 2K WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera $26.99
• Tapo C320 2k WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera with Starlight Sensor $34.99

I've so far received and installed the P115 Smart Plugs, the C120 and C520WS cameras.  All the cameras I installed are being integrated into an older NVR (Network Video Recorder), which has a mix of IP and analog cameras.  The Tapo cameras require setup via the Tapo app, but otherwise worked well with the third party NVR, using ONVIF and RSTP to stream the video.  For cameras I set up, they can record locally to an SD while also streaming to the NVR, which is a nice bit of redundancy (however that is not possible with the Tapo solar or battery powered cameras, which will either record locally or stream).  

The night vision is pretty good on the C120 and C520WS (I have not yet tested the others), but there is something a bit odd about the way the Starlight sensor cams work.  The C520WS has great black and white night vision, however to use the color night vision, the white light LEDs need to be on, which is not really well noted in the amazon listing.  The color night vision is also not as crisp as the black and white, so I have left it off after trying it out.  I also don't like the idea of having the LEDs on all night.  There is a mode where the camera will normally run in black and white, but switch on the LEDs and change to color if it detects movement, which may be a decent balance.

Interestingly, the C120, which is the cheapest camera, seems to run with color night vision in lower light than the C520WS (which has the Starlight sensor).  The color night vision on the C120 will switch to black and white below a threshold, but it has been working in color, with a low amount of light (less than from a typical outside porch light).  Both cameras have good quality daytime video, and the C520WS has pretty sharp nighttime video (in black and white).  They also support audio with a microphone and speaker to talk through the camera.  

If running the Tapo cameras with an NVR, the setup for the cams has to be done via the Tapo App, however once that is done, the App is not required further.  The Tapo App can also be used in combination with an NVR, but it will of course only control the Tapo and Kasa devices.  To set up an NVR, a local account must first be set up on each camera, with a username and password.  This has some security implications, so it should only be done on an isolated network, where the cameras are not exposed to the internet.  After that, they can be set up as RSTP and ONVIF devices.  The RSTP port is 554 with a URL similar to this (rtsp://192.168.YYY.XXX:554/stream1).  The Pan Tilt camera uses ONVIF and RSTP, and is set up using ports 554 (RSTP) and 2020 (ONVIF).  For the C520WS, I used the RSTP port as 554 and set the HTTP port as 2020 (same as the ONVIF), since the NVR only had options for RSTP and HTTP under the ONVIF camera setup.  Using HTTP port 2020 was the only way to get the NVR to work with the pan and tilt functions of the Tapo C520WS.   It also took a reboot of the camera and the NVR to get them to talk with each other, but that's sort'a par for the course with security cameras and NVR's unfortunately. 

During the install of the C520WS, which I first set up wireless, and then changed over to wired ethernet, I noted that the MAC address was the same on wired ethernet or wireless.  Therefore, I think it's an either/or, and the WIFI and wired would not be used at the same time.  I actually deleted the camera as a WIFI camera, and then re-installed it as a wired camera, but I am not sure if there was another way to switch it over (I had some unrelated network issues to deal with during the install, so much of that is a blur lol).

The AI detection on these cameras works very well, with simple to configure zones and very good detection.  The alerts are quite a bit more accurate than older systems, which can be tricked by moving branches.  And it all runs locally on the cameras which is really nice.  There have been a few false positives, but the AI tracking really will track a moving car or person.  Since the features run on the cameras, the NVR doesn't need to be smart, it just needs to record.

The P115 Smart Plugs are being used to monitor power usage on several PC's, a couple appliances, and also a 3D printer.  They were easy to set up, each taking a just a couple minutes, with it all being done over Bluetooth (the initial config is over Bluetooth, but they use WIFI once set up).  The data they are collecting is going to be very useful to track down some devices which may need an energy diet.  The plugs provide some nice graphs of usage, and also current power utilization.  They claim to be able to handle 15A, and otherwise they do what they claim, so I'm happy, especially at the current prices.  

Aside from the unique challenges of setting up the C520WS with an NVR, the install on these cameras went pretty smooth, and they they offer a good (and inexpensive) upgrade to older analog (dumb) cameras.  The only downside I found was the pretty weak mount on the C120, which has a magnet and a couple thin arms to point the camera.  It will work if it's up high and out of the wind, or better, inside, but I don't think it is robust enough to rely on if mounted in an exposed spot.  Since I never can be really happy with something, until I've 3D printed something else to make it "better", I designed a "wall wart" mount for the C120 which converts it into a more secure, and a bit more tamper proof camera.  It's of course plastic, and won't stop somebody who is determined to knock it out, but hopefully the camera will have performed it's mission by then at least.  I'm still testing the new mount design, and may make a few changes, but I'm mostly happy with it so far.

Update 9/18/2024:  I decided to make up some junction boxes to fit the wires that will connect up these cameras.  So far I have made a couple versions of the boxes, one that fits PG16 cable glands (maybe other sizes in the final version), and another type of box that fits my own cable gland design (which is needed for the larger 23mm connectors on the outdoor cameras).  For the C120 cameras, which use a USB-C for power, and will be mounted in the wall warts as shown above, there is a box that will have a 12v->5v buck converter, a fuse holder, and three WAGO 221-413 (3 port) connectors, to make the wiring simple.  The boxes will use M3 hardware, and do not require supports.  

Update 9/25/2024:  I have installed a couple boxes, but have not installed the C120 cameras with the printed "wall wart" mount yet, since I am waiting on one more part (some 5x20 fuses).  It's amazing how hard it is to get decent Bussman or Littlefuse 5x20 glass fuses without spending an arm and a leg for them.  I don't trust the no-name brand glass fuses thanks to several reviews like this one, which demonstrate how they are not always properly rated.  I ended up buying some Bussman fuses from Arrow, and got a decent assortment to have on hand for projects.  I also found a bunch of Raspberry Pi and electronics projects related items that must have been getting blown out at really good prices (some I think were considered "obsolete" - but wire and switches don't go bad lol), so loaded up a reasonable amount on those as well.  When I get these mounted and tested in the printed enclosure, I will post another update.  

Update 9/26/2024:  I received the fuses and hooked up the C120 camera enclosure with the 12V -> 5V buck converter, fuse and WAGOs, and then tested everything.  Just a side note, Arrow does too good a job at packaging their products.  Everything was packed in anti-static bags, even the fuses and some wire I picked up.  Some of the LEDs I ordered were already in antistatic packaging, but were also placed neatly into their own (second) anti-static bags.  It's pretty crazy how well some of the fuses were packed too (some were packed in a box with foam).  I really hate seeing all that waste, but I guess if I ever need a bunch of anti-static bags, all I need to do is put in an order to Arrow LOL (they have good prices and ship quick too).  Now back to the enclosure business - it works well, and draws between 160-180mA on the 12V input to the buck converter when the camera is in use (with WiFi, sound, speaker and detection, etc), or about 2 watts.  The pics below all show current being measured (I forgot to take the meter off the 10A input, but the reading should be close).  I also got some pics of the basic box, which was installed with a POE power splitter and some cable glands. 

I'm gonna make some changes to the box, and add a TPU washer for the cable glands, and maybe a weather cap for the fuse holder.  I may not include the cable glands in the final version, since they are not waterproof if the cable is too large or small (they are more water resistant).  I think standard PG-16 or other more water tight cable glands are probably a better option anyway, but I like my version for the size and cost.

Update 9/29/2024: I was finally able to get the ​C120 camera and another of the C320ws cameras installed today.  I still need to make the changes to the box, but I was able to use one of the older prototypes and it looks like it will work OK.  I really like the boxes, they have plenty of room for wires and seem pretty sturdy.  The wall wart mount for the C120 camera will hopefully not cause problems with overheating the camera, but time will tell.  I designed the mount so there is airspace mostly around the camera though, so I don't expect issues - though the one I just set up is gonna get afternoon sun for a few hours during the day.

I also decided to clean up some network wiring at the switch closet.  I'm needing to pull some CAT5 ad 6 back there from another location, and instead of punching an ugly hole in the ceiling to run some wires down to the switch the cameras will connect to, I decided to make a box for them.  The requirements were:

• The box must be easy to open, since I will be adding new runs to it over time and I don't want to be unscrewing the cover a dozen times.
• There needs to be a way to keep bugs and drafts from entering through the opening in the box.
• It should be pretty easy to install.

Since I already have a design for a latching case, I'm modifying that to use for the cable box.  There will be a pair of TPU cable comb type pass throughs for the wires, which will hopefully help keep the bugs and drafts out.  And to make things simple to install, the duct, which goes from the box through the ceiling is threaded, so it will just screw into the box.  A nut will help tighten the box to the ceiling (along with some screws), and finally, the top cap on the threaded duct will also have a TPU cable comb type gasket.  Now I just need to print it, along with some more camera wiring boxs, and a bunch of other parts for unrelated projects... 

Update 9/30/2024:  I still need to get the wire pass through box printed, but I picked up a couple more Tapo cameras, and a wired doorbell cam as well for $50 on sale (the wireless version is a couple bucks cheaper after $3 coupon).  But when I went to check out, I noticed that on the page right before hitting the button to order, there is an option which said "Device linked to your Amazon account to simplify setup." with "Change" below it.  Clicking "Change" will allow un-linking the cameras from the Amazon account, which I'd recommend, unless you intend to use them with Alexa.  I'd expect this if I was ordering a Fire Stick or Tablet, but it seems kind'a sneaky that Amazon is slipping in Alexa preconfiguration on a Tapo camera.  Opting in to that really should not be the default option, as well.  Just something else to watch out for. 

I could not find anywhere on Amazon to check if there are any devices tied to Alexa (so they could be removed), so I expect that the Alexa app may be required for that, which I don't plan to install.  The sneaky checkout Alexa setup default option seems like the only downside to the cameras though, they are working really well, and are a big upgrade from the old analog cams they are replacing.  I have had a few issues with the app, but they seem likely related to the Wi-Fi connection between the phone and router, since the cameras seem to connect OK.  They also record locally, so if the cameras lose the network connection to the NVR, they can still record to their local SD card.

​The Tapo cameras are simple enough to set up with the Tapo app anyway.

For some things where the typical 95A TPU is too hard, ESun's 83A TPE really can shine, since it is more flexible, and can provide a rubbery surface where that may be necessary.  I've been working on a couple projects where a more rubbery material is required, so have been having to run some of the ESun TPE though my Bambu X1C.  I say "having to run" since it is a bit of a pain to get it working well.  I have not found a spool roller which did not overly stretch the TPE before it could reach the hotend, so I have been resorting to stabbing a short length of Bowden tube into the hot end (which runs over the side), and then laying out the length of filament to the side of the printer in a figure 8 loop.  That setup allows for a low friction filament path, and works well.. as long as I unspool enough material.  Although that method works, I still have a good share of failures with it, some are just general weird issues where I cannot be sure what happened, while others are my fault for one reason or another.  I do have more successes than failures though, and considering the difficulty of the material, I just consider it a learning experience.  

The only change I make in the slicer when running this TPE, is to run it with gyroid infill, and to use the "Generic TPU" filament profile with the "Max Volumetric Speed" set to 2.0m³/s.

So, although the ESun 83A TPE is a good choice if the 95A TPU won't work, it is a bit more difficult to run, due to it's stretchy nature.  I don't consider that a drawback though, since it is just a more flexible material, and therefore more difficult.  One thing that does concern me though, is that when I've had to open the enclosure when this TPE is running, I notice that my sinuses seem to be a bit irritated afterwards.  It doesn't smell however, and this is just an observation of something that has occurred several times while working with it.  I run this, and really everything, inside a ducted and filtered enclosure, so I don't notice anything normally, which is fortunate.  Needless to say, I don't enjoy running this material, but it's good to know that I can if I have to.  If running this though, I strongly suggest using a vented enclosure.

TL;DR

The GOOD:

• It can print really nicely (when dry).
• It is more flexible and "rubbery" or grippy than standard 95A TPU.
• It is on the less expensive side for a more flexible filament (around $28).

The BAD:

• It takes a bit of work to get enough friction out of the filament path, to get it to feed correctly.
• A top mount, ball bearing, center axis spool holder, and a direct drive, would be the best setup (with the spool almost centered over the bed).
• Even with a smooth filament path, some failures will still happen.

The UGLY:

• I'd only run it in a ducted enclosure.

I'm always open to suggestions for new designs, so when someone requested a small shelf for a baby monitor with a place for the wires to be stashed out of sight, I thought it was a really cool idea (they gave me a bunch of boosts too, which made it even cooler :D).  The shelf started out as a simple and quick design, with a pocket to hide the wires.  When I finished the design though, a family member mentioned they would be able to use a small shelf too.  I then decided to add a small drawer, and when that design was completed, I thought "why not have a drawer and a place to stash wires?"... So that's what I'm printing now. 

On the version with a small drawer and wire stash, the stash is about 25x30x150mm, so it should hold most small wires for things like a clock (or a baby monitor).  The small drawer has an inside volume of 30x67x150mm, and slides in from the back with a catch, so it cannot be pulled all the way out.  The drawer shelf version without a stash, has a drawer volume of 30x95x150mm.

The first version without a drawer is already uploaded on Printables and MakerWorld.

The drawer and drawer plus stash versions will be uploaded soon.

Update 9/9/2024:  The drawer version is now uploaded to MakerWorld and Printables.  There are several versions, including the following options:

• 3M Command Strip mounting or #10 screw mounting options for the shelf.
• Large full size drawer, or an option with a smaller drawer and a cable stash.
• Plan front versions of both large and small drawers, with a drill guide for 128mm, 96mm and 3" handles, or a center pull.  These are designed to work with custom or off the shelf pulls and handles, and will require drilling out the holes to mount the hardware.

Here are just a couple notes on the design:

• If using the large drawer version, there is a model with no cable management cut-outs which should be used.
• The cable stash is not accessible once the shelf is installed, since the stash and the drawer are installed from the back of the shelf, prior to mounting.
• If using 3M command strips, printing with a smooth plate is recommended, since that will give the strips the best surface to adhere to.  I also suggest using PLA over PETG, since PLA seems to have a better surface for sticking the strips to.  Finally, if the adhesion of the strips needs a boost, I sometimes will add 2-3 small drops of superglue before applying the strips to the part.  That will help bond the strips to the model, but should still allow for pulling them off (as long as the glue is kept to a minimum).
• If using the drawers with custom or off the shelf pulls or handles, it may help to use a bright flashlight inside the drawer to highlight the drill templates, if you cannot angle a drill from the inside to make pilot holes.  That may not work on dark filaments however.  You could also heat a nail up with a lighter and poke it through from the inside to get a starter hole that could be drilled from the front.

Update 9/27/2024:  There is a version 2 now available on Printables.  It is not tested, but the changes are mostly cosmetic, so there should not be any issues with it.  The changes include:

• The shelf supports are now simple 45° legs, which will help with reducing some of the ugly layer lines on the original (which had steeper slopes on the legs).
• The holes for the cable management version of the shelves are now centered and inline with each other.  That should make it easier to install or remove a cable, once the shelf is mounted to the wall.