I picked up a few TP-Link Tapo Cameras and also a few Energy Monitoring Smart Plugs, which are on sale at Amazon currently (with the lowest prices historically, according to CamelCamelCamel). Tapo seems to be the name of TP-Link's newer smart home devices, although they are still selling the Kasa line of similar devices. Many of the TAPO devices are "Matter" compatible, which means they will work with Alexa, Google, Samsung SmartThings and Apple Homepod. I'm no expert on smart home stuff, but I found a link which indicates that both Kasa and Tapo devices can also work with Home Assistant. I am pretty impressed with the value of these smart home cameras and switches though.
As far as the sale is concerned, I picked up several Tapo cams and smart power switches, since they are the lowest prices ever according to CamelCamelCamel's price history:
I've so far received and installed the P115 Smart Plugs, the C120 and C520WS cameras. All the cameras I installed are being integrated into an older NVR (Network Video Recorder), which has a mix of IP and analog cameras. The Tapo cameras require setup via the Tapo app, but otherwise worked well with the third party NVR, using ONVIF and RSTP to stream the video. For cameras I set up, they can record locally to an SD while also streaming to the NVR, which is a nice bit of redundancy (however that is not possible with the Tapo solar or battery powered cameras, which will either record locally or stream).
The night vision is pretty good on the C120 and C520WS (I have not yet tested the others), but there is something a bit odd about the way the Starlight sensor cams work. The C520WS has great black and white night vision, however to use the color night vision, the white light LEDs need to be on, which is not really well noted in the amazon listing. The color night vision is also not as crisp as the black and white, so I have left it off after trying it out. I also don't like the idea of having the LEDs on all night. There is a mode where the camera will normally run in black and white, but switch on the LEDs and change to color if it detects movement, which may be a decent balance.
Interestingly, the C120, which is the cheapest camera, seems to run with color night vision in lower light than the C520WS (which has the Starlight sensor). The color night vision on the C120 will switch to black and white below a threshold, but it has been working in color, with a low amount of light (less than from a typical outside porch light). Both cameras have good quality daytime video, and the C520WS has pretty sharp nighttime video (in black and white). They also support audio with a microphone and speaker to talk through the camera.
If running the Tapo cameras with an NVR, the setup for the cams has to be done via the Tapo App, however once that is done, the App is not required further. The Tapo App can also be used in combination with an NVR, but it will of course only control the Tapo and Kasa devices. To set up an NVR, a local account must first be set up on each camera, with a username and password. This has some security implications, so it should only be done on an isolated network, where the cameras are not exposed to the internet. After that, they can be set up as RSTP and ONVIF devices. The RSTP port is 554 with a URL similar to this (rtsp://192.168.YYY.XXX:554/stream1). The Pan Tilt camera uses ONVIF and RSTP, and is set up using ports 554 (RSTP) and 2020 (ONVIF). For the C520WS, I used the RSTP port as 554 and set the HTTP port as 2020 (same as the ONVIF), since the NVR only had options for RSTP and HTTP under the ONVIF camera setup. Using HTTP port 2020 was the only way to get the NVR to work with the pan and tilt functions of the Tapo C520WS. It also took a reboot of the camera and the NVR to get them to talk with each other, but that's sort'a par for the course with security cameras and NVR's unfortunately.
During the install of the C520WS, which I first set up wireless, and then changed over to wired ethernet, I noted that the MAC address was the same on wired ethernet or wireless. Therefore, I think it's an either/or, and the WIFI and wired would not be used at the same time. I actually deleted the camera as a WIFI camera, and then re-installed it as a wired camera, but I am not sure if there was another way to switch it over (I had some unrelated network issues to deal with during the install, so much of that is a blur lol).
The AI detection on these cameras works very well, with simple to configure zones and very good detection. The alerts are quite a bit more accurate than older systems, which can be tricked by moving branches. And it all runs locally on the cameras which is really nice. There have been a few false positives, but the AI tracking really will track a moving car or person. Since the features run on the cameras, the NVR doesn't need to be smart, it just needs to record.
The P115 Smart Plugs are being used to monitor power usage on several PC's, a couple appliances, and also a 3D printer. They were easy to set up, each taking a just a couple minutes, with it all being done over Bluetooth (the initial config is over Bluetooth, but they use WIFI once set up). The data they are collecting is going to be very useful to track down some devices which may need an energy diet. The plugs provide some nice graphs of usage, and also current power utilization. They claim to be able to handle 15A, and otherwise they do what they claim, so I'm happy, especially at the current prices.
Aside from the unique challenges of setting up the C520WS with an NVR, the install on these cameras went pretty smooth, and they they offer a good (and inexpensive) upgrade to older analog (dumb) cameras. The only downside I found was the pretty weak mount on the C120, which has a magnet and a couple thin arms to point the camera. It will work if it's up high and out of the wind, or better, inside, but I don't think it is robust enough to rely on if mounted in an exposed spot. Since I never can be really happy with something, until I've 3D printed something else to make it "better", I designed a "wall wart" mount for the C120 which converts it into a more secure, and a bit more tamper proof camera. It's of course plastic, and won't stop somebody who is determined to knock it out, but hopefully the camera will have performed it's mission by then at least. I'm still testing the new mount design, and may make a few changes, but I'm mostly happy with it so far.
As far as the sale is concerned, I picked up several Tapo cams and smart power switches, since they are the lowest prices ever according to CamelCamelCamel's price history:
- Tapo P115 Power Monitoring Smart Plugs (4-Pack) $27.99 (before a $5 off coupon and another 25% off if using the Amazon Prime credit card to check out).
- Tapo C120 2K WIFI (only) Indoor/Outdoor Camera $27.99
- Tapo C520WS 2k WIFI or Wired Indoor/Outdoor Pan and Tilt Camera with a Starlight Sensor $54.99
- Tapo C310 2K WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera $26.99
- Tapo C320 2k WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera with Starlight Sensor $34.99
I've so far received and installed the P115 Smart Plugs, the C120 and C520WS cameras. All the cameras I installed are being integrated into an older NVR (Network Video Recorder), which has a mix of IP and analog cameras. The Tapo cameras require setup via the Tapo app, but otherwise worked well with the third party NVR, using ONVIF and RSTP to stream the video. For cameras I set up, they can record locally to an SD while also streaming to the NVR, which is a nice bit of redundancy (however that is not possible with the Tapo solar or battery powered cameras, which will either record locally or stream).
The night vision is pretty good on the C120 and C520WS (I have not yet tested the others), but there is something a bit odd about the way the Starlight sensor cams work. The C520WS has great black and white night vision, however to use the color night vision, the white light LEDs need to be on, which is not really well noted in the amazon listing. The color night vision is also not as crisp as the black and white, so I have left it off after trying it out. I also don't like the idea of having the LEDs on all night. There is a mode where the camera will normally run in black and white, but switch on the LEDs and change to color if it detects movement, which may be a decent balance.
Interestingly, the C120, which is the cheapest camera, seems to run with color night vision in lower light than the C520WS (which has the Starlight sensor). The color night vision on the C120 will switch to black and white below a threshold, but it has been working in color, with a low amount of light (less than from a typical outside porch light). Both cameras have good quality daytime video, and the C520WS has pretty sharp nighttime video (in black and white). They also support audio with a microphone and speaker to talk through the camera.
If running the Tapo cameras with an NVR, the setup for the cams has to be done via the Tapo App, however once that is done, the App is not required further. The Tapo App can also be used in combination with an NVR, but it will of course only control the Tapo and Kasa devices. To set up an NVR, a local account must first be set up on each camera, with a username and password. This has some security implications, so it should only be done on an isolated network, where the cameras are not exposed to the internet. After that, they can be set up as RSTP and ONVIF devices. The RSTP port is 554 with a URL similar to this (rtsp://192.168.YYY.XXX:554/stream1). The Pan Tilt camera uses ONVIF and RSTP, and is set up using ports 554 (RSTP) and 2020 (ONVIF). For the C520WS, I used the RSTP port as 554 and set the HTTP port as 2020 (same as the ONVIF), since the NVR only had options for RSTP and HTTP under the ONVIF camera setup. Using HTTP port 2020 was the only way to get the NVR to work with the pan and tilt functions of the Tapo C520WS. It also took a reboot of the camera and the NVR to get them to talk with each other, but that's sort'a par for the course with security cameras and NVR's unfortunately.
During the install of the C520WS, which I first set up wireless, and then changed over to wired ethernet, I noted that the MAC address was the same on wired ethernet or wireless. Therefore, I think it's an either/or, and the WIFI and wired would not be used at the same time. I actually deleted the camera as a WIFI camera, and then re-installed it as a wired camera, but I am not sure if there was another way to switch it over (I had some unrelated network issues to deal with during the install, so much of that is a blur lol).
The AI detection on these cameras works very well, with simple to configure zones and very good detection. The alerts are quite a bit more accurate than older systems, which can be tricked by moving branches. And it all runs locally on the cameras which is really nice. There have been a few false positives, but the AI tracking really will track a moving car or person. Since the features run on the cameras, the NVR doesn't need to be smart, it just needs to record.
The P115 Smart Plugs are being used to monitor power usage on several PC's, a couple appliances, and also a 3D printer. They were easy to set up, each taking a just a couple minutes, with it all being done over Bluetooth (the initial config is over Bluetooth, but they use WIFI once set up). The data they are collecting is going to be very useful to track down some devices which may need an energy diet. The plugs provide some nice graphs of usage, and also current power utilization. They claim to be able to handle 15A, and otherwise they do what they claim, so I'm happy, especially at the current prices.
Aside from the unique challenges of setting up the C520WS with an NVR, the install on these cameras went pretty smooth, and they they offer a good (and inexpensive) upgrade to older analog (dumb) cameras. The only downside I found was the pretty weak mount on the C120, which has a magnet and a couple thin arms to point the camera. It will work if it's up high and out of the wind, or better, inside, but I don't think it is robust enough to rely on if mounted in an exposed spot. Since I never can be really happy with something, until I've 3D printed something else to make it "better", I designed a "wall wart" mount for the C120 which converts it into a more secure, and a bit more tamper proof camera. It's of course plastic, and won't stop somebody who is determined to knock it out, but hopefully the camera will have performed it's mission by then at least. I'm still testing the new mount design, and may make a few changes, but I'm mostly happy with it so far.
Update 9/18/2024: I decided to make up some junction boxes to fit the wires that will connect up these cameras. So far I have made a couple versions of the boxes, one that fits PG16 cable glands (maybe other sizes in the final version), and another type of box that fits my own cable gland design (which is needed for the larger 23mm connectors on the outdoor cameras). For the C120 cameras, which use a USB-C for power, and will be mounted in the wall warts as shown above, there is a box that will have a 12v->5v buck converter, a fuse holder, and three WAGO 221-413 (3 port) connectors, to make the wiring simple. The boxes will use M3 hardware, and do not require supports.
Update 9/25/2024: I have installed a couple boxes, but have not installed the C120 cameras with the printed "wall wart" mount yet, since I am waiting on one more part (some 5x20 fuses). It's amazing how hard it is to get decent Bussman or Littlefuse 5x20 glass fuses without spending an arm and a leg for them. I don't trust the no-name brand glass fuses thanks to several reviews like this one, which demonstrate how they are not always properly rated. I ended up buying some Bussman fuses from Arrow, and got a decent assortment to have on hand for projects. I also found a bunch of Raspberry Pi and electronics projects related items that must have been getting blown out at really good prices (some I think were considered "obsolete" - but wire and switches don't go bad lol), so loaded up a reasonable amount on those as well. When I get these mounted and tested in the printed enclosure, I will post another update.
Update 9/26/2024: I received the fuses and hooked up the C120 camera enclosure with the 12V -> 5V buck converter, fuse and WAGOs, and then tested everything. Just a side note, Arrow does too good a job at packaging their products. Everything was packed in anti-static bags, even the fuses and some wire I picked up. Some of the LEDs I ordered were already in antistatic packaging, but were also placed neatly into their own (second) anti-static bags. It's pretty crazy how well some of the fuses were packed too (some were packed in a box with foam). I really hate seeing all that waste, but I guess if I ever need a bunch of anti-static bags, all I need to do is put in an order to Arrow LOL (they have good prices and ship quick too). Now back to the enclosure business - it works well, and draws between 160-180mA on the 12V input to the buck converter when the camera is in use (with WiFi, sound, speaker and detection, etc), or about 2 watts. The pics below all show current being measured (I forgot to take the meter off the 10A input, but the reading should be close). I also got some pics of the basic box, which was installed with a POE power splitter and some cable glands.
I'm gonna make some changes to the box, and add a TPU washer for the cable glands, and maybe a weather cap for the fuse holder. I may not include the cable glands in the final version, since they are not waterproof if the cable is too large or small (they are more water resistant). I think standard PG-16 or other more water tight cable glands are probably a better option anyway, but I like my version for the size and cost.
Update 9/26/2024: I received the fuses and hooked up the C120 camera enclosure with the 12V -> 5V buck converter, fuse and WAGOs, and then tested everything. Just a side note, Arrow does too good a job at packaging their products. Everything was packed in anti-static bags, even the fuses and some wire I picked up. Some of the LEDs I ordered were already in antistatic packaging, but were also placed neatly into their own (second) anti-static bags. It's pretty crazy how well some of the fuses were packed too (some were packed in a box with foam). I really hate seeing all that waste, but I guess if I ever need a bunch of anti-static bags, all I need to do is put in an order to Arrow LOL (they have good prices and ship quick too). Now back to the enclosure business - it works well, and draws between 160-180mA on the 12V input to the buck converter when the camera is in use (with WiFi, sound, speaker and detection, etc), or about 2 watts. The pics below all show current being measured (I forgot to take the meter off the 10A input, but the reading should be close). I also got some pics of the basic box, which was installed with a POE power splitter and some cable glands.
I'm gonna make some changes to the box, and add a TPU washer for the cable glands, and maybe a weather cap for the fuse holder. I may not include the cable glands in the final version, since they are not waterproof if the cable is too large or small (they are more water resistant). I think standard PG-16 or other more water tight cable glands are probably a better option anyway, but I like my version for the size and cost.
Update 9/29/2024: I was finally able to get the C120 camera and another of the C320ws cameras installed today. I still need to make the changes to the box, but I was able to use one of the older prototypes and it looks like it will work OK. I really like the boxes, they have plenty of room for wires and seem pretty sturdy. The wall wart mount for the C120 camera will hopefully not cause problems with overheating the camera, but time will tell. I designed the mount so there is airspace mostly around the camera though, so I don't expect issues - though the one I just set up is gonna get afternoon sun for a few hours during the day.
I also decided to clean up some network wiring at the switch closet. I'm needing to pull some CAT5 ad 6 back there from another location, and instead of punching an ugly hole in the ceiling to run some wires down to the switch the cameras will connect to, I decided to make a box for them. The requirements were:
I also decided to clean up some network wiring at the switch closet. I'm needing to pull some CAT5 ad 6 back there from another location, and instead of punching an ugly hole in the ceiling to run some wires down to the switch the cameras will connect to, I decided to make a box for them. The requirements were:
- The box must be easy to open, since I will be adding new runs to it over time and I don't want to be unscrewing the cover a dozen times.
- There needs to be a way to keep bugs and drafts from entering through the opening in the box.
- It should be pretty easy to install.
Update 9/30/2024: I still need to get the wire pass through box printed, but I picked up a couple more Tapo cameras, and a wired doorbell cam as well for $50 on sale (the wireless version is a couple bucks cheaper after $3 coupon). But when I went to check out, I noticed that on the page right before hitting the button to order, there is an option which said "Device linked to your Amazon account to simplify setup." with "Change" below it. Clicking "Change" will allow un-linking the cameras from the Amazon account, which I'd recommend, unless you intend to use them with Alexa. I'd expect this if I was ordering a Fire Stick or Tablet, but it seems kind'a sneaky that Amazon is slipping in Alexa preconfiguration on a Tapo camera. Opting in to that really should not be the default option, as well. Just something else to watch out for.
I could not find anywhere on Amazon to check if there are any devices tied to Alexa (so they could be removed), so I expect that the Alexa app may be required for that, which I don't plan to install. The sneaky checkout Alexa setup default option seems like the only downside to the cameras though, they are working really well, and are a big upgrade from the old analog cams they are replacing. I have had a few issues with the app, but they seem likely related to the Wi-Fi connection between the phone and router, since the cameras seem to connect OK. They also record locally, so if the cameras lose the network connection to the NVR, they can still record to their local SD card.
The Tapo cameras are simple enough to set up with the Tapo app anyway.
I could not find anywhere on Amazon to check if there are any devices tied to Alexa (so they could be removed), so I expect that the Alexa app may be required for that, which I don't plan to install. The sneaky checkout Alexa setup default option seems like the only downside to the cameras though, they are working really well, and are a big upgrade from the old analog cams they are replacing. I have had a few issues with the app, but they seem likely related to the Wi-Fi connection between the phone and router, since the cameras seem to connect OK. They also record locally, so if the cameras lose the network connection to the NVR, they can still record to their local SD card.
The Tapo cameras are simple enough to set up with the Tapo app anyway.
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