Bambu Spares Storage Box Build Guide
This is a build guide for my Bambu Labs Spares Storage case, which can be found at the links below:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636
https://www.printables.com/model/626897-bambu-labs-x1c-spare-parts-case-box-for-stuff
The current version of the design is v3.0 (X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf), however this guide has been updated incrementally since the first version, so some pictures are out of date.
This case is pretty simple to build, but it does require a bit of M3 hardware including the following (quantities are in "(_)"):
(8) M3 x 6mm BHCS
(2) M3 x 8mm SHCS or FHCS
(7) M3 x 10mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
(8) M3 x 20mm SHCS
(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS
BHCS = Button Head Cap Screws
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screws
FHCS = Flat Head Cap Screws
(2) 8x3mm Cylinder Magnets - Optional, and only needed if using the Allen Key holder large compartment lid
This assortment of M3 SHCS has most of the required screws (and you could use the M3x6 SHCS in place of the BHCS, but if you have the BHCS around, they would be a better choice). These M3x6 BHCS will work, but I usually buy assortments (like this one), since metric screws (and M3 in particular) always come in handy for 3D printer repairs and projects.
Note that some of the pics here will look different than the final version. That's because, I'm perfectly happy to use my prototype design, which has about 95% of the features of the final version, and has the same functionality. When I make an minor improvement I don't reprint the entire project unless its necessary (but I will test the component that is changed). Doing things this way saves on filament (and also does not add more junk to a landfill). The downside is that my version is usually a bit less than the final version. But don't worry, you are getting latest and greatest version, with all the improvements (despite what you see in the pics here).
https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636
https://www.printables.com/model/626897-bambu-labs-x1c-spare-parts-case-box-for-stuff
The current version of the design is v3.0 (X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf), however this guide has been updated incrementally since the first version, so some pictures are out of date.
This case is pretty simple to build, but it does require a bit of M3 hardware including the following (quantities are in "(_)"):
(8) M3 x 6mm BHCS
(2) M3 x 8mm SHCS or FHCS
(7) M3 x 10mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
(8) M3 x 20mm SHCS
(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS
BHCS = Button Head Cap Screws
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screws
FHCS = Flat Head Cap Screws
(2) 8x3mm Cylinder Magnets - Optional, and only needed if using the Allen Key holder large compartment lid
This assortment of M3 SHCS has most of the required screws (and you could use the M3x6 SHCS in place of the BHCS, but if you have the BHCS around, they would be a better choice). These M3x6 BHCS will work, but I usually buy assortments (like this one), since metric screws (and M3 in particular) always come in handy for 3D printer repairs and projects.
Note that some of the pics here will look different than the final version. That's because, I'm perfectly happy to use my prototype design, which has about 95% of the features of the final version, and has the same functionality. When I make an minor improvement I don't reprint the entire project unless its necessary (but I will test the component that is changed). Doing things this way saves on filament (and also does not add more junk to a landfill). The downside is that my version is usually a bit less than the final version. But don't worry, you are getting latest and greatest version, with all the improvements (despite what you see in the pics here).
Printing Suggestions
NOTE THAT THIS PART HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED FOR THE LATEST v3.0 FILES, SO SOME FILE NAMES ARE OUTDATED. CONSIDER THIS AS AN OUTLINE ONLY, AND USE THE CURRENT FILES AVAILABLE ON MAKERWORLD.
Since some of the parts require a bit of flexibility, I recommend printing the latch parts, the handle, and the small clips for the wipers and cutters in PETG over a more brittle material such as PLA. The main case and other parts which do not flex can be made from PLA or whatever your preferred material is.
Parts on this model will have a close fit, so it's a good idea to calibrate flow or let the X1C do it for you. I used the automatic flow calibration on several PETG materials used in this project, and did not have any issues with assembly (but as always YMMV).
The parts are designed to be printed without supports, but they are not oriented for printing (so some will need to be rotated in the slicer). You can use the included .3mf files with Bambu Studio or Orcaslicer, which will save a lot of time (since that will take care of part orientation and other settings).
Since some of the parts require a bit of flexibility, I recommend printing the latch parts, the handle, and the small clips for the wipers and cutters in PETG over a more brittle material such as PLA. The main case and other parts which do not flex can be made from PLA or whatever your preferred material is.
Parts on this model will have a close fit, so it's a good idea to calibrate flow or let the X1C do it for you. I used the automatic flow calibration on several PETG materials used in this project, and did not have any issues with assembly (but as always YMMV).
The parts are designed to be printed without supports, but they are not oriented for printing (so some will need to be rotated in the slicer). You can use the included .3mf files with Bambu Studio or Orcaslicer, which will save a lot of time (since that will take care of part orientation and other settings).
However, if you cannot use the .3mf files, and therefore need to set the files up manually, the tips below may be helpful. They are based on Bambu Studio and Orcaslicer as well.
The following parts will need to be printed in multiples (quantities are in “( )”):
(2) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_CLEAT.stl
(5) Bambu_ToolKit-8Q_CUTTER_TAB_x5.stl
The print settings I used are the OrcaSlicer defaults, with the following changes:
Strength > Infill > Sparse Infill Pattern > Gyroid
Quality > Wall Generator > Wall Generator > Arachne
Supports are not necessary, but if you find a problem area, you can pain supports and then choose:
Support > Type > Tree (manual)
For the TOP and BOT(tom) parts, I also recommend disabling the prime tower. It will waste a bit more material, but since these parts take up most of the build area, there is no room for the prime tower. The AMS is only required on the first several layers of these parts anyway.
Under Process “Global” > Others > Prime Tower > Enable (uncheck)
For the labels and inserts, which use the AMS, the prime tower can be used without an issue.
The top and bottom of the case have an inlay and are therefore designed to be printed in two colors. If there is no AMS, the top and bottom with their inlays can be printed in the same color, which may leave a very fine outline of the text. The top and bottom parts include the following:
TOP (2 colors):
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_w_GASKET.stl
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_INLAY_w_Gasket.stl
or
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_NO_Gasket.stl
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_NO_Gasket_INLAY.stl
BOTTOM (2 colors):
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_BOT.stl
Bambu_ToolKit-9A_BOT_INLAY.stl
The parts with "TOP_LABEL", "BOT_5X_SD" and "BOT_2X_SD" are designed for multicolor printing using the AMS.
When loading multicolor parts into Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer, I select all the parts which are related, and drop them onto the build plate together. For example, I would load "Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_NO_Gasket.stl" and "Bambu_ToolKit-9A_TOP_NO_Gasket_INLAY.stl", together at the same time, into the slicer. This way, the files will maintain their relationship to each other. The files can simply be dragged together onto the build plate in the "Prepare" tab in the slicer. There will be a pop up warning asking if it should "Load these files as as a single object with multiple parts?" which would be answered with "Yes".
The models will load and will be grouped together, so they can both be moved without losing their positions relative to each other.
If using an AMS, the colors for the mesh and main object can be changed by selecting the object, and then clicking (or clicking several times) on the "Fila." box, which should show the color of the default filament loaded. From here, there will be a dropdown box where other colors can be selected. The images below are for a different model, but the idea is the same:
If using an AMS, the colors for the mesh and main object can be changed by selecting the object, and then clicking (or clicking several times) on the "Fila." box, which should show the color of the default filament loaded. From here, there will be a dropdown box where other colors can be selected. The images below are for a different model, but the idea is the same:
Putting it Together
Assembly is pretty straightforward, there are no heat set inserts, and everything is assembled with screws. I recommend wearing eye protection to assemble this, since there are some parts (such as the doors) need to snap in, and most folks only have one spare eye. Most importantly though, do not force the latches closed. If they seem too tight and you think something may break, post a comment over on MakerWorld or Printables, and I will try and help you out. There are some alternate longer latch clasps that are also available if you run into that issue.
The guide below may help to determine which screws go where:
The guide below may help to determine which screws go where:
Step 1 - The Handle
The handle installs with the following hardware:
(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS
Step 2 - Latches
To assemble the latches, the following hardware is required:
(2) M3 x 8mm SHCS (or FHCS)
(2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS
The latches have a left and right side, and there is an access hole in the case, which will be used to install the M3x20mm screw. The access hole for the M3x20mm screw is tight, but the head of the screw should fit through. The M3x30mm screw just installs as shown in the pic below (on the left).
The cleat, which the latches engage on the Top of the case also needs to be installed. This part is "Bambu_ToolKit-14S_LID_INSERT.stl", and can be used on either side (print two of them). The cleat will slide into dovetails in the top of the case, and when fully installed, it needs to be secured with one M3x14mm SHCS screw. Check that the cleat and the dovetail are free of stringing or blobs before installing, and if it's too tight, lightly sand the cleats just a bit (don't force them in since they could crack the case or get stuck). The pic below (on the right) shows the M3x14mm screw installed in the cleat.
With the v3.0 update, there is now a latch insert for the base as well, which will be where the latch clasps attach. To install them, insert the parts in the groove in the base until they stop. If they are too tight, lightly sand the dovetail on the part until it slides in fully. Do not force the part in, as it could crack the case or dovetail. Once the insert is fully seated, install a M3x8 SHCS (or FHCS) through the insert, and into the case. This screw goes in at an upward angle (see the pics below)
PLEASE do not force the inserts into the case, or force the latches closed if they are too tight. Doing so could crack the case. Instead, check for any problems with the parts and lightly sand them if necessary. You can also add a comment over on MakerWorld, and I will try to assist.
(2) M3 x 8mm SHCS (or FHCS)
(2) M3 x 14mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 20mm SHCS
(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS
The latches have a left and right side, and there is an access hole in the case, which will be used to install the M3x20mm screw. The access hole for the M3x20mm screw is tight, but the head of the screw should fit through. The M3x30mm screw just installs as shown in the pic below (on the left).
The cleat, which the latches engage on the Top of the case also needs to be installed. This part is "Bambu_ToolKit-14S_LID_INSERT.stl", and can be used on either side (print two of them). The cleat will slide into dovetails in the top of the case, and when fully installed, it needs to be secured with one M3x14mm SHCS screw. Check that the cleat and the dovetail are free of stringing or blobs before installing, and if it's too tight, lightly sand the cleats just a bit (don't force them in since they could crack the case or get stuck). The pic below (on the right) shows the M3x14mm screw installed in the cleat.
With the v3.0 update, there is now a latch insert for the base as well, which will be where the latch clasps attach. To install them, insert the parts in the groove in the base until they stop. If they are too tight, lightly sand the dovetail on the part until it slides in fully. Do not force the part in, as it could crack the case or dovetail. Once the insert is fully seated, install a M3x8 SHCS (or FHCS) through the insert, and into the case. This screw goes in at an upward angle (see the pics below)
PLEASE do not force the inserts into the case, or force the latches closed if they are too tight. Doing so could crack the case. Instead, check for any problems with the parts and lightly sand them if necessary. You can also add a comment over on MakerWorld, and I will try to assist.
Step 3 - The Hinges
To install the hinges, the following screws are required:
(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS
Alternatively, (2) M3x45mm (or possibly 50mm) SHCS can probably be used if there are no M3x25mm screws handy. M3x20mm screws may work, but I would not recommend them, since they will not have much to screw into. To install the hinge screws, first assemble the top and bottom together so the holes in the hinge line up. Then install the screws from each side of the hinge. I used an Allen key, but switched to a flexible shaft driver, which made installing the inside screws much quicker.
(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS
Alternatively, (2) M3x45mm (or possibly 50mm) SHCS can probably be used if there are no M3x25mm screws handy. M3x20mm screws may work, but I would not recommend them, since they will not have much to screw into. To install the hinge screws, first assemble the top and bottom together so the holes in the hinge line up. Then install the screws from each side of the hinge. I used an Allen key, but switched to a flexible shaft driver, which made installing the inside screws much quicker.
Step 4 - The Hotend Holders
The hot end holders install with the following hardware:
(7) M3 x 10mm SHCS
But any printing errors or boogers need to be cleaned off before fitting, since it's a snug fit (though it should not require sanding unless the surface quality is poor).
First install the clips into the hotend holders, taking care to note the orientation (when installed the clips will sit flush with the angled edge of the holders). If they do not sit flush, you may need to clean up the clips or the hotend module so the clips will not interfere with installing the module.
With the v3.0 update, there are several new "hybrid" hotend module options, and they go together the same way as the basic modules, but have additional inserts with a swing out "table" that helps to stabilize hotends without attached fans. These hybrid modules require that hotends (even partial hotends) have a sock, otherwise the clips will not grip them properly The inserts for the hybrid modules go together by setting the "L" shaped "table" into the larger insert, and then pushing the pin through the base of the insert and through the "L" shaped "table". The end of the pin has a small index, but it really won't matter if it does not line up, just make sure the base of the pin is flush with the insert when fully installed. Then make sure the "table" swings open and close, if it does not, try cycling it several times to free it up. Then slide the insert into the module and fully seat it so it is flush with the base of the module. Repeat this for the remaining modules.
Note that the modules are not interchangeable between the large (5x) and small (4x) modules, since there are slight differences between them.
Before installing the modules, verify all the clips and inserts are installed.
The screws should not be over-tightened when installing the modules in the case, but if they are, the holders can simply be glued in place using some superglue (or add some glue to the screw holes if they get stripped out). However, unless glue is needed due to a stripped screw, I'd not use it. If there is damage later, the modules cannot be replaced if they are glued in.
(7) M3 x 10mm SHCS
But any printing errors or boogers need to be cleaned off before fitting, since it's a snug fit (though it should not require sanding unless the surface quality is poor).
First install the clips into the hotend holders, taking care to note the orientation (when installed the clips will sit flush with the angled edge of the holders). If they do not sit flush, you may need to clean up the clips or the hotend module so the clips will not interfere with installing the module.
With the v3.0 update, there are several new "hybrid" hotend module options, and they go together the same way as the basic modules, but have additional inserts with a swing out "table" that helps to stabilize hotends without attached fans. These hybrid modules require that hotends (even partial hotends) have a sock, otherwise the clips will not grip them properly The inserts for the hybrid modules go together by setting the "L" shaped "table" into the larger insert, and then pushing the pin through the base of the insert and through the "L" shaped "table". The end of the pin has a small index, but it really won't matter if it does not line up, just make sure the base of the pin is flush with the insert when fully installed. Then make sure the "table" swings open and close, if it does not, try cycling it several times to free it up. Then slide the insert into the module and fully seat it so it is flush with the base of the module. Repeat this for the remaining modules.
Note that the modules are not interchangeable between the large (5x) and small (4x) modules, since there are slight differences between them.
Before installing the modules, verify all the clips and inserts are installed.
The screws should not be over-tightened when installing the modules in the case, but if they are, the holders can simply be glued in place using some superglue (or add some glue to the screw holes if they get stripped out). However, unless glue is needed due to a stripped screw, I'd not use it. If there is damage later, the modules cannot be replaced if they are glued in.
Step 5 - The Wiper, Cutter and MicroSD Modules
The following hardware is needed to install the smaller modules:
(6) M3 x 20mm SHCS
The wiper and cutter modules have been updated due to several folks letting me know the tabs were breaking. I didn't have that issue with mine, but could see how it could be improved. The updated models now have separate tabs, and can print flat, which will give them the most strength against snapping when bending. They are assembled as shown in the pics, prior to being installed in the case using the M3x20 screws.
Each module gets two screws, and the same suggestions apply as for the hotend holders. They should be smooth before installing, since they are a snug fit. The parts orientation is also important to observe. They go in as shown in the pic below.
(6) M3 x 20mm SHCS
The wiper and cutter modules have been updated due to several folks letting me know the tabs were breaking. I didn't have that issue with mine, but could see how it could be improved. The updated models now have separate tabs, and can print flat, which will give them the most strength against snapping when bending. They are assembled as shown in the pics, prior to being installed in the case using the M3x20 screws.
Each module gets two screws, and the same suggestions apply as for the hotend holders. They should be smooth before installing, since they are a snug fit. The parts orientation is also important to observe. They go in as shown in the pic below.
Step 6 - The Top Lid Doors and Latches
The doors in the top lid will require the following hardware:
(8) M3 x 6mm BHCS
(2) 8x3mm Cylinder Magnets - Optional, and only needed if using the Allen Key holder large compartment lid
Note that there are two options for the large compartment lid, one is a plain lid (Bambu_ToolKit-11Y_TOP_DOOR_LARGE.stl.stl), and the other is a lid with a couple clips which hold a 1.5 and 2.0mm Allen key using two 8x3 cylinder magnets. The Allen key large compartment lid requires the following alternative parts:
Bambu_ToolKit-11Y_TOP_DOOR_LARGE_with_AllenKey.stl
AllenKey_Lid_1F_LID_CLIP_TOP.stl
AllenKey_Lid_1F_LID_CLIP_BOT.stl
(these are found on the 10th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile - in white and orange)
(8) M3 x 6mm BHCS
(2) 8x3mm Cylinder Magnets - Optional, and only needed if using the Allen Key holder large compartment lid
Note that there are two options for the large compartment lid, one is a plain lid (Bambu_ToolKit-11Y_TOP_DOOR_LARGE.stl.stl), and the other is a lid with a couple clips which hold a 1.5 and 2.0mm Allen key using two 8x3 cylinder magnets. The Allen key large compartment lid requires the following alternative parts:
Bambu_ToolKit-11Y_TOP_DOOR_LARGE_with_AllenKey.stl
AllenKey_Lid_1F_LID_CLIP_TOP.stl
AllenKey_Lid_1F_LID_CLIP_BOT.stl
(these are found on the 10th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile - in white and orange)
There are also three options for the lid latches:
1. The first is the standard plain latch:
(4 of these are required for the case)
Single Color:
Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_UPPER.stl (these are found on the 8thd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
There is no multicolor option for this latch design.
There are also three options for the lid latches:
1. The first is the standard plain latch:
(4 of these are required for the case)
Single Color:
Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_UPPER.stl (these are found on the 8thd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
There is no multicolor option for this latch design.
3. The next option is a latch with a tab that flips up. The tab is meant to help with gripping the latch to move it. This version is best suited if using PETG, since, unlike the next version of the latch, it does not have pawls which snap closed against the tab to hold it closed. This version is available in single color, or multicolor (where the tab can be printed in a different color than the rest of the latch). If you do not use the included 3mf profile, the "A" and "B" parts of the two color tab will need to be loaded together into the slicer (select both and drag and drop them into the slicer), and then answer "yes" to the dialog box that aks it if it should "Load these files as as a single object with multiple parts?". The 3mf profiles however are already set up this way, so nothing needs to be done if using them.
The file names are (4 of these are required for the case):
Single Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_both.stl
(these are found on the 11th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
Two Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_a.stl
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_b.stl
(these are found on the 2nd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-REV11T_V2-4_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mf profile - in blue and gray PLA)
The file names are (4 of these are required for the case):
Single Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_both.stl
(these are found on the 11th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
Two Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_a.stl
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_b.stl
(these are found on the 2nd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-REV11T_V2-4_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mf profile - in blue and gray PLA)
3. The final version looks identical to the 2nd version above, but has an internal pawl that latches the tab when closed (so you can refer to the pics of the 2nd version above). This version was suggested by a maker who noted that the 2nd version tabbed latches could flop open when closing the lid, interfering with closing the main lid of the case. In my testing, these snap closed tab lids worked smoother when printing with PLA, and were a bit stiffer when using PETG. If using PETG, it may be worth trying the original non-snap closed tabbed lid version (2nd version), and then deciding if this snap closed version is needed. You can also try mixing PLA and PETG for either tabbed version, and since PLA and PETG do not stick to each other, that could be an ideal way to make them.
The file names are (4 of these are required for the case):
Single Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_both.stl (these are found on the 8th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
Two Color:
New Latching Lid With Catch_1B_A.stl
New Latching Lid With Catch_1B_B.stl
(these are found on the 3rd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-REV11T_V2-4_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mf profile - in blue and orange PLA)
The file names are (4 of these are required for the case):
Single Color:
lidded_bins-3e_latch_top_both.stl (these are found on the 8th sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-rev15Q_NO_PRIME_TOWER_v3-0.3mf profile)
Two Color:
New Latching Lid With Catch_1B_A.stl
New Latching Lid With Catch_1B_B.stl
(these are found on the 3rd sheet of the X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-REV11T_V2-4_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mf profile - in blue and orange PLA)
If using either of the tabbed latch versions, the tabs will need to be "broken" free before they can be used. This is because the tabs act as supporting material for the rest of the latch. I use a narrow spudger tool, or a thin regular screwdriver to pop the tabs free. Once the tab is popped free, it is good to cycle the tab open and closed several times, which will loosen them up quite a bit. PLA seems to loosen more than PETG however, which is why the non-latching tabbed version may work better with PETG, while the latching version may work best with PLA. If mixing PLA and PETG, you may need to experiment with both versions to see which works best for you.
To assemble the doors (which go in the top lid), first take note of the orientation of the doors. The top side should be flat (the side that printed against the bed). The latches use the following parts (4 of each are needed):
(4) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_UPPER.stl (or whichever version of the tabbed latches you chose to use - see above)
(4) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_LOWER.stl
The latches should be assembled on the doors first. The bottom latch part should be installed first, and then screwed together with the top part, as shown in the pic below.
(4) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_UPPER.stl (or whichever version of the tabbed latches you chose to use - see above)
(4) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_DOOR_LATCH_LOWER.stl
The latches should be assembled on the doors first. The bottom latch part should be installed first, and then screwed together with the top part, as shown in the pic below.
Once the latches are installed, the doors can be installed in the top by snapping their hinges into the top. Care should be taken not to snap the hinges, and again use some safety glasses here in case a part snaps off. There should be enough flex in the hinges to push them in, but a thin flat head screwdriver can be used to assist if necessary to lever the hinges in place. The large door will be the most difficult to install, but I have found that installing the two lower hinges (which point in the same direction) first, and then the top hinge, works the best. These parts may need to be printed in PETG, since they require some flexibility to get the hinges installed (some PLA types, such as silk PLA, may be too brittle). I have however used "regular" PLA. PLA+ and PETG on these doors without an issue.
Once the doors are in, check that they latch correctly. If they do not, the pockets where the latches lock in the top of the case may need to be cleaned of any stray material.
Once the doors are in, check that they latch correctly. If they do not, the pockets where the latches lock in the top of the case may need to be cleaned of any stray material.
Step 7 - The Case Label
This one is hardly a step, but I did not want to leave it out. The case has a label frame on the front near the handle. To install the label, first check the orientation of the label. It may help to close the case before installing the label, which will make the orientation obvious. Check that the holes in the case are free of blobs and that the posts on the label are also free of blobs. Then just press it in place, until the posts snap in place.
Note that the latest version 2.1 design only uses 2 posts (unlike the 3 posts shown in the pic).
Note that the latest version 2.1 design only uses 2 posts (unlike the 3 posts shown in the pic).
Step 8 - Install the Gasket (if using the Top with a Gasket)
I did not take pics of this step, but the gasket snaps into place in the top. As before, make sure there are no blobs or other pieces in the groove where the gasket goes (or on the gasket), before attempting to install it. To press the gasket in place, I found that the blunt end of a sharpie marker worked well as a tool to seat it. I also used some clear silicon sealant (specifically Gorilla Clear Silicone Sealant), in the groove prior to installing the gasket, which I applied with a cotton swab. The silicone is optional, but I think it may help, since there are always gonna be imperfections in a 3D printed part (which the silicone can help fill). These however, are not waterproof cases. In testing I found that water will often get into the cases either from the gaskets (which are usually a stiff 95A TPU), or simply by oozing through the tiny gaps between layers in a 3D print. Possibly printing a solid case (100% infill), and using a very soft TPU may help, but I've not been able to achieve anything more than water resistance. Really though, if your 3D printing tools are underwater, you probably have bigger problems.
Thats It, Enjoy Your Bambu Labs Spare Parts Case!
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Thanks for looking!
This guide was updated 3/10/2025 for the current version 3.0 models.
