And yes, that is a magnetic TP holder :D
Some pics of a few things I have been working on, some are not published yet (Thingiverse has problems again and it is not worth the timeouts to try and load new designs right now). The AA Battery holder is printed but has some issues feeding so I may need to work on the design a bit more.
And yes, that is a magnetic TP holder :D
I replaced my Capacitive sensor with an Inductive Sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX), following the recommendation from Nexi-Tech's video here, and it was a pretty easy swap. The hardest part was testing it out before installing it (also tested a replacement capacitive probe I bought as a backup).
The probe is an NPN normally open (NO) sensor, and to test them, I used a 10K Ohm resistor (pullup) between the black (output) wire and +12v (which connects to the brown wire). Blue is ground - there is a good pic of the wire color scheme here. The pullup resistor brings the output (black wire) to +12V normally, and when the probe is triggered, it would drop the output (black wire) to close to zero volts, as the transistor inside the sensor would close the connection between the output (which is connected to +12V though a 10K Ohm resistor) to ground. The resistor is only for testing though, and not necessary when it is all connected up and in use (the resistor will be there still, but on one of the circuit boards).
So far though I like it, however the sensing distance was smaller than what was shown in the Nexi-Tech video, I had to lower it a bit more and could not use the 3.9mm plexiglass piece which was used in the video to set the spacing on the probe (see the pic). I was concerned that the bed clips may interfere with the probe, but they are far enough away that they do not affect it. I suspect it will be an upgrade over the old sensor (which was broken anyway).
I went to home my printer after running a print and found that the Z sensor was not working (crashed the hot end into the bed). I ran M119 and it was not showing as triggered even though I had triggered it and could see the red indicator LED was lit on the sensor. To be sure though, I tested it out, and since I am lazy I googled to see if it was an NPN or PNP, and turns out it is NPN - and mine is dead - though it is strange the LED still indicates correctly (broken wire or connection maybe?). The pinout on these sensors is Black (output), Blue (ground), Brown (V in). I connected it up to my adjustable supply set for 12v, and connected the 10K Ohm pullup resistor between the black wire (output) and the 12V in, and when triggered, it never dropped the voltage on the output pin so seems to be dead.
No biggie though, these are cheap and it gives me a reason to swap it for an inductive probe. I bought the one linked in the how-to video by Nexi-Tech here (and also picked up a capacitive sensor just in case I decide to switch back.
This did get me thinking about spare parts for the CR10S Pro, and how they are actually not easy to find beyond the basics. Fortunately there is always some other way to fix something on most of these printers, than just dropping a genuine spare part in, but it is often not as easy as just swapping like for like. But my search for the genuine spare did lead me to find this:
Which unfortunately I cannot find more info about over at opembuilds (despite what is in the listing). Looks like a simple mod as mods go, and could be really cool - but now that I have my enclosure for my printer it is not on the menu anytime soon. I think that kind of mod would also need to have some upgrades to the rigidity of the bed unless the speeds were slowed down quite a bit. Really cool upgrade though, maybe someday I will do it.
Although the HEPA + Carbon filter seems to be working just fine, I decided to add an exhaust fan to the printer enclosure. It uses the same fan as the filter but discharges the air into a 2 1/2" hose which is then sent though an unused doggie door. I made a panel to go in the doggie door which the hose can attach to with a quick change coupler, and a cap to close it off when it's not being used. Seems to work, and the volume of air at the end of the hose is reasonable for what I want it to do. I did find several design problems which I went back and corrected as best I can, but I feel that if I had started over from scratch I would have done things a bit different with the exhaust fan. It is not enough of an issue for me to spend that time though, and since it works I probably will just leave it be. I've not posted this, or the doors or most of the rest of the enclosure on Thingiverse yet, and hesitate to do so since although I like it, and it works, it is not perfect - and is also not complete yet. It has also been an expensive project.
So the holidays are finally over, and now I can start to refill the hole in my bank account, but the work is not yet done (never is). If it were up to me though, I'd just leave the lights up all year, since it seems a waste to spend the effort to take them down just to put 'em back up 11 months later. But I guess we live in a society with rules and all that, so I will cooperate for the greater good of the neighborhood and take 'em down. I'm not really all that much into Christmas anyway, seems like it is just a shakedown by the Apple-Industrial Complex and Amazon, and probably the Rand Corp...uh, I better not say anymore, I think Alexa is listening.
Anyhoo, I made some clips to let me coil up and store my Christmas lights using some old filament spools. Seems like a good way to do something with them since I could not bring myself to pitch 'em, and they don't have any recycling symbols on them (but appear to be ABS). You can find the clips here if you want to organize your lights, and have a bunch of empty spools lying around with nothing better to do.
The design was remixed from Madox's Filament Clip (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12516) and Shermluge's Christmas Light holder for rain gutters (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204558).
My mission is to lower the collective IQ of teh Internets one post at a time.