The cable boots were printed with Priline Black TPU, but I plan to add some parts that should allow the whole thing to be printed in PLA (or PETG).
You can find this thing here.
This is something that I thought of after I made the Audio Extender, and then found a slim USB 3.0 Hub which would fit just about perfectly with it. I mounted mine, sandwiched between the desk and controller for my Uplift Desk (holes were made specifically for that), but there is no reason it could not be mounted by itself. This uses the following parts, aside from the mounting screws.
The cable boots were printed with Priline Black TPU, but I plan to add some parts that should allow the whole thing to be printed in PLA (or PETG).
You can find this thing here.
Seems like my printers only get stupid when I'm running ear protectors. Saw this after dinner tonight, a big blob of PTEG stuck on the nozzle. Fortunately it did not ruin the fan duct, but unfortunately it covered the block with it's taffy like evil. There was also a dusting of white powder around the hot end and on the fan duct which I'm guessing is from the white pigment in the PETG. On top of the problem with the blob, the failure stuck a bunch of plastic firmly to the PEI sheet which took a half hour to clean up by itself using a razor blade and scotchbrite.
To clean this mess I heated it to 200°C and carefully used a long nose pliers with some paper towel twisted around the end and got the bulk of the mess off. Then I used a brass brush (again very carefully) to clean up the sides of the block - except for the side where the wires connect (too easy to short it there). Then I went back over it with some paper towels wrapped tightly around the long nose pliers and wiped up anything left. The silicone boot was a write off though, but I have some spares so when I got it back together it looked OK. Both the pics below are after pics, I was too busy cleaning up the mess and forgot to grab a before, but it was not pretty. Now trying this again, but with only one ear protector instead of a full sheet of them.
This is just a quick audio jack extender which I needed since the jack on my PC is hard to reach and routing the cable for my headphones makes things messy. I printed it in PETG and the cable boot was made with TPU. You can find it here:
Update 11-20-2020: I'm working on another version which will mount between the Uplift desk controller panel and the desk (or could be used on a normal desk without the controller). It will included a USB hub with cable boots and all the trimmings. The design is done but I am waiting on the USB hub to verify the dimensions before printing it.
The Gazebo LED project is about half done, but I have them completed on one of the Gazebos and they look great. They are arranged as two "L" shaped strings and I'm running each of the strings in parallel from one controller. The LED controller and remote work perfectly and hopefully, with the housing I designed for the controller, it will last a while. The only thing that concerns me is heat dissipation from the controller case, but since these will only be on at night I think it will be OK. The LED hangars place the LED strips at a level just below a fabric flap which hides the hangars and wires, so it looks pretty clean overall. One more to do, but I have to print more hangars (which take about 4 hours each).
I was gonna swap a CCTV camera with a brand new one that has been sitting in the box for a while. I tested it in normal light but did not notice when I bought it, that it has a problem in low light. This camera has four IR LEDs which were reflecting off the clear plastic cover and causing the low light image to be washed out with a bunch of smudges (like the lens was dirty). The problem was due to the IR LEDs and the camera lens not being tight against the plastic cover, so I made some hoods for the lens and IR LED optics which close the gap between them and the clear plastic cover. They were printed in Priline TPU which is the first TPU I have printed, and it worked great out of the spool, but like all TPU it degraded with moisture since I didn't have my printer set up to use a sealed spool holder. It's in the dehydrator now (130°F for 4-6 hours) which helped the first time I ran it through. This TPU is really tough with just a small amount of flex, like hard rubber, seems like it is tough stuff and I plan to use some for outdoor projects. I'm using it for another project to make some cable seals for the gazebo LED strips.
Biden did not win with a landslide, and Trump will not concede, but my faith that the (slim) majority of Americans would vote for their own self interest is somewhat restored. Biden will be greatly hindered in most of is goals thanks to a Republican Senate, and what is sure to be an activist post White House Trump with plenty of time to tweet, and plenty of drones in Congress still willing to do his bidding. But at least we can begin to start having the conversations in this country about things that matter, and that is the first step to the long work of making America truly great again.
Of course nothing good will happen until 12:01 PM on January 20th, 2021. On that day, at that hour, we will finally have a scientifically sound national strategy to emerge from 2020's cloud of COVID-19, which for many people has been a lost year, and sadly for some has been their last year. We will have a President that understands that science is not "fake news", and that we have limited time to turn the corner and mitigate the worst impacts of Global Warming, which yes, is only get'n started - and we are already seeing the affects of in our lifetimes. We will have a President who knows how to get things done in a contentious Congress, and may even be able to pass a long delayed infrastructure bill to help position the country for the future. And finally, we will have a President who will try to do something about the old wounds this country has lived with for far too long, and which Trump has torn open again in his self serving and disgusting gambit.
Nothing is ever perfect, and electing Biden and Harris will not be a magic fix for all the problems we have, but the first step in fixing a problem is to stop making it worse. Thankfully America has spoken, and we can finally see the exit ramp where we can get off this highway to hell.
I received all the parts I need, aside from some nuts and bolts, to test the gazebo LED lights. Nothing too complicated about these, but thought I would share some pics. I'm really impressed by the 24V power supply and would rather buy this one time than buy 3 of the cheap ones as they go out. This is also rated for outdoor use, and should be good for higher temps. Meanwell is a reliable brand too. I spent a bit more than a regular plug end and bought an IP65 rated GFCI plug end designed for a power washer which looks really well designed with several different size cable relief grommets.
The RF LED controller works perfectly as well, and is easy to set up. It is a good compromise between simplicity and functionality, and a good value at about ten bucks for a controller or remote on Ebay (and one remote can operate multiple controllers). I've also been able to get my design for the LED rail hangers finalized, and tested one of them in place. It is surprisingly sturdy though I'm not going to try to do a pullup on them. The hangars were printed in PETG and I am really liking the eSUN Black Opaque PETG since it prints beautifully as long as you slow it down (which is required for all PETG I have tried).
I just need to print 16 of the small hangars and another 20 of the larger ones, as well as 2 controller boxes. I also have some end caps I need to test which will be printed in TPU (16 of those needed). I expect that this project will require almost exactly one spool of PETG. It's going to be a long couple weeks for the printers. I will probably need to put the Hydra + BMG install for my CR10S PRO on hold for a bit while I get this project done, but I may go ahead and post it to Thingiverse as a work in progress since it's as done as possible without testing it.
Update 11/8/2020 - The LED controller box works great, however there is one little problem I overlooked. I had planned to split the output from the controller and run two strings in parallel, but the enclosure I designed only has space for one output line. That is now fixed, but I need to print it. I did print the single line version which I will be using in a future outdoor project, so it's not a loss and I was able to confirm that the cable glands fit perfectly, as does the method of securing the controller without screws inside the case. I do need to tighten up the screw holes for the M3 lock nuts which secure the cover and the dual output version will clip into a holder which will secure it out of sight but still attached to the gazebo. Overall very happy with the design so far.
I also installed 1/4 of the LED's for this project and they look pretty good, I think. The controller is flawless and the ability to save colors is very nice. I would have liked to have the chasing effects but that would have easily doubled the cost on an already expensive project. I expect the works to be done in a couple weeks since I am still printing stuff for it.
Once again I spent way too much time on a remix which should have taken a couple hours... but I wanted to get the offset for the inductive probe closer to the nozzle. I tried side mounting it and was still off by 56mm to the left, and then tried a fan mount which looks like it could work. I'm also going to use the heatfixer (need to slightly remix that for my microswiss hot end). If the probe is too much of an obstruction to the airflow I may put a 40x20mm fan on there. The sound is not an issue since it's enclosed anyway. I just need to print this now, which will take about 15 hours, then test it out.
Update 10-31-2020: I posted it here as an UNTESTED work in progress.
:My CR10S Pro V1 Hydra Fan Duct Remix is almost ready to test, though I had to make some additional changes to the screw holes for the hot end fan. They will now use regular M3 locknuts instead of inserts. I'm also considering other cable management ideas that could be easier to print, but getting close.
Update - I took the cable management clip off so it can print separately. Now it should print without supports. I will update with a link to Thingiverse once I have tested it out.
Update 2 (10-31-2020): I posted it here as an UNTESTED work in progress.
I have been slacking on uploading things to Thingiverse lately, but I still plan to. Prepping things for Thingiverse takes a bit of work and it's not as interesting as designing (have to make a decent attempt at a description, try and recall if there were any gotchas when printing, re-slice tricky parts to check the best print orientations, find the correct version of a design, etc). Most of the new stuff is either waiting on parts, or I have not been able to print (or test) due to other stuff taking priority. Also my CR10S Pro has only recently gotten back into production (with extra huge thanks for MicroSwiss for assisting with getting it back up).
My top project is getting some RGBW LED strips installed on a pair of new gazebos for my parents. They picked up some strange LED rope lights at Costco which are pretty interesting, but very basic. After explaining to them that the different types of LED strip lights and all the cool ways they can be controlled, they asked me to look into upgrading them (they only bought one set of 18ft rope lights to test). I decided to go with the following setup since I want to do this right and the lights will be outdoors:
I probably paid about $150 more for everything due to choosing a high quality, IP rated power supply (and not overdriving a cheap one), and also by getting the aluminum channels but I want this to last at least as long as the gazebos, but I saved some on the LEDs which I figure are going to be the most variable part quality-wise no matter where I get them. The channels are necessary due to the design of the gazebos, but they will also help cool the LEDs which may help with longevity. The plan is to make a hanger for them which will snap onto the frame of the gazebo and provide a bit of reveal for the LED strips below a fabric cover. I only bought one of the RF controller receivers from Amazon and ordered a second from Ebay, since I want to test it out first and figure I can wait on the 2nd. Each gazebo will have one controller and one 24v 10A power supply on 44 feet of LEDs (13.4m). The RGBW strips I bought are 0.5A per meter (max) so that would be 6.7A per gazebo. It is very unlikely I will drive them that high and I wanted a buffer so the 10A supply on each gazebo should work, with some amps to spare if I decide to run some addition strips of LED's in the future, off the existing set up.
One remote will control both gazebos using the linked controllers. There are 2 types of remotes for that system, one can control 4 zones independently and the other can control only one zone, both types can control several receivers. I think Amazon only sells the combo with the single zone remote however. I had also considered the Shelly REBW2 but decided against it since a physical (RF) remote was a requirement, and did not want to jury rig some switch/mosfet/relay thing to switch between controllers.
I'm currently waiting to test some hangers I designed to hold the aluminum channels several inches below the top frame rails of the gazebo, and also provide some cable management. These will attach to spring steel clips which will connect to the aluminum extrusions which will hold the LED strip. Even though the design is pretty well optimized, each of these will still take 3-4h to print and I will need 10 of the large ones and 8 of the smaller ones per gazebo:
Next up is to test and print an enclosure for the RF LED Controller. These will use PG11 cable glands and will have an M4 screw which can be removed to poke something through to reset the controller if needed (an M5 screw could also be used without the insert). It is designed to be printed without supports. I plan to use some slicone to help seal the baseplate, though gravity should help keep rain out. The mounting will be with zipties.
The second project has been a work in progress for a while and I am a bit stuck on it, but it is to add a drawer to my enclosure. I'm trying to decide how to make some parts to connect the enclosure to the drawer rails on an Ikea drawer. There have been several iterations of the design, but I'm trying to cut the cost and print time to the minimum and also avoid problems putting it together. For something so simple I am making it much harder than it needs to be I think.
The third project is completed and installed, as of today. It is a simple divider for a chest freezer. I set up the fridge with a plan, and tried to keep some organization, but unfortunately all plans go out the window on first contact with the family. In short the fridge is a mess. I looked at freezer dividers which seem to be the best way to go, but those things are crazy expensive to get enough parts to outfit a fridge. I decided to roll my own using wood purchased from Amazon and Walmart, some 3D printed parts. There are some silicone feet also from Amazon which I decided to use to protect the base of the freezer from any hard edges. I am pretty happy with the result, which I call the bread jail because for some reason bread needs to go in the freezer. With the 3/8" dowels from Walmart I could have made the width upto 12" (as shown in the pics), but that would have interfered with buckets already in the freezer, so the final design is only half as wide as shown. Sorry no pics of it in action though, still a bit embarrassed by the mess in the freezer, and it's not much to look at when fully loaded up (unfortunately with bread). Despite it being made of 3/8" dowels and 3/4" sticks it is damn strong, it would not be easy to pull it apart. The dowels are clamped in by a threaded coupler and requires no gluing or holes drilled (see pic below). There are however a ton of screws (and I did pre-drill for those). I also added dowels to pin the corners but that was unnecessary. The design allows for additional panels to be added to either side.
I plan to post this design up to thingiverse in the next week or two.
Update 10/24/2020: Uploaded the design to Thingivsers with some instructions. You can find it here.
Finally, I have back-burnered a LED spice rack I was working on, which could possibly turn into just a cool piece of wall art. Lack of printers and time to test it out has placed this one on hold for a while. I expect this one to take a loooong time to print. I had intended to use this with a battery powered RGB LED strip which would wind around through the base of the spice holders and shine through a clear diffuser. The whole thing would be wall mounted and the battery pack would be hidden (ideally). The problem was that the LED strip I had initially chosen for the project, though bright was not bright enough when placed behind the diffuser. Due to that problem I decided to test it using a 12V battery used for CCTV testing, but that is still pending (waiting on the LED strip). It would be really cool to use an arduino with some individually addressable LED's but really I'd be happy to just get the LED design completed at this point. If it is down to practicability, any battery setup would have a short runtime and require some design compromises (make it smaller), so it may end up without a battery and just require an ugly cord and plug for power (or maybe it will only exist in my CAD software where I can power it with anything I want :-)
As usual it's the same old story, not enough time/money/printers, and too much crap to do.
My mission is to lower the collective IQ of teh Internets one post at a time.