When my CR10S Pro hotend blew out the other day, it took my fan duct with it.  The fan duct I was using was a good one and if I don't see any improvement I will go back to it, but I thought maybe it was time to see what else there is out there.  I found this one which looks good, but I wanted to make some changes to make it easier to print.  As usual only the STL was available so I made do by copying some of the critical dimensions and building a new model from scratch.  Below is the result and it has yet to be printed or tested.  The main changes are:

•  The interior galleries have a roof pitched at 45 degrees which should eliminate the need for supports (there is one small area near the opening where I plan to use them but these should be easy to remove - see the pics).
•  There is a divider to segment the fan flow so each set of ducts will (theoretically) get half of the air flow from the fan.
•  There is a notch where some fans have a tab which can otherwise interfere it sitting fully in the duct.
•  Mounting screw holes are elongated to allow some vertical adjustment.
• There are some other minor changes to reduce the need for supports designed into the model as well.

If this works out at least as well as the duct I was using, I will post it up on thingiverse.

Update 10-23-2020: The duct has been working fine since I installed it, but I don't really know if it is an improvement over the old one, so I don't think it's worth the time to set it up on Thingiverse.  I have been printing more PETG lately though and have decided that I need to upgrade to a direct drive extruder on the Cr10s Pro since retractions really seem to influence the surface quality (and they are much less severe on a direct drive).  I'm probably going to go with the Hydra hot end by BoothyBoothy at Thingiverse (or a remix), so this experiment with a new duct will probably be short lived anyway.  Edit (10/27/2020) The Hydra duct will need to be remixed for my cr10s pro, which I can do, but I need to locate the file for the x-gantry/hot end mount for the CR10S Pro which is different from the CR10/Ender3 design.

I have been using a MicroSwiss All Metal Hotend for a year now and it has been a great investment.  I cannot recall the last time it clogged up and it handles everything I have thrown at it (PLA, PETG and ABS so far), but it has now developed a strange problem.  It began with this:

A big mess for sure, but no real harm done I thought.  Just clean up the mess, put it back together and I would be back in business.  Unfortunately however I ran into a very odd problem.  After cleaning up the hot end, the heatbreak would not go back into the heatsink.  It was almost like it was too big.  I checked the pocket of the heatsink and none of the plastic got up in there, and the heatbreak looks clean.  There is what appears to be a wear line on the heatbreak which I think was from the grub screw probably made while it was working it's way out (the grub screw was find though and not stripped out.  I have tried pushing the heatbreak into the heatsink as far as I could (about 2-3mm) and heating it up to see if that would expand the heatsink enough to get it to slip back in, but that did not work.  I am checking with MicroSwiss now to see what they recommend. 

Update 9/25/2020: I spoke with MicroSwiss who replied the next day to get some pics.  After looking at the pics, and the other info I provided, they believe the issue is with the heat tube and are sending another one out (at no charge).  Great support from them, and hopefully my printer will be back in business printing PETG (the stock hot end is not all metal so I don't want to use it for PETG).

Updated 10/2/2020: I received the replacement heattube but I still cannot get it to fit in the heatsink, so it must be something with the heatsink.  It's a very odd problem since the heatsink looks fine, and both heat tubes measure the same OD.  Will need to see what they say, but the CR10S Pro will be down for a while.  Fortunately the Ender3 is working OK.

Updated 10/13/2020: They sent me the replacement heatsink which fits the replacement heatbreak like a glove, but oddly the old heatbreak did not fit the new heatsink.  But my CR10S Pro is back in business, and it is thanks to the great customer service from MicroSwiss, which was fast and helpful, despite the USPS taking their time getting it here. 

I really like the design of the MicroSwiss all metal hot end, it is much easier to work with than the V6 or stock hot ends, and the titanium heatbreak seems to work really well with PETG as well as PLA.  I did put my stock hot end back on for a couple days during the downtime, but then decided that I did not want to burn the PTFE tube running over 240C on PETG so stopped using it till the replacement parts arrived.  The time was not wasted though, I swapped the build surface with a gizmodorks PEI sheet which works great, and checked a few other things on the printer.  I'm now thinking of adding a direct drive mod (thinking of using the Hydra design by boothyboothy at thingiverse since it is easy to swap the extruder).

Edit (10/27/2020) The Hydra duct will need to be remixed for my cr10s pro, which I can do, but I first need to locate the STP/IGS/STL file for the stock x-gantry/hot end mount for the CR10S Pro which is different from the CR10/Ender3 design.

When the President says "This will be a Rigged Election", he is not lying.  This is how he will (try to) do it.

This is just a modification of the Black and Decker 20V Battery Holders which will have a sliding indicator to show if the battery is full or discharged. 

You can find the new design here.

There is also an under desk headphone holder posted here.