For some reason Ford decided to use a plastic hose for the wiper squirters on the C-max, which may work if the hose was static, but here the squirters are mounted on the hood, so the hose must flex every time the hood is opened and closed.  When I saw the plastic hose I thought it was just some plastic conduit over a rubber hose, but nope, there is no other hose inside.  They really just used plastic.  Thanks to their design decision which probably saved them less than a buck and helped boost some nameless VP's star in the company, there was an inevitable leak, right where the hose has to flex.  Not a huge deal, but annoying when I have to find this out the hard way, with a dirty windshield and no squirters to spray it with (fortunately I had a case of unsweetened seltzer water on hand which was handy).

To hopefully fix this, I ordered this kit, which has an assortment of connectors, but I only needed two of the the 1-1 couplers.  The kit looks similar to many others on Amazon, and works well.  The included connectors went right into the remaining hose without much complaint.  I measured the inside and outside diameters of the stock hose and it was 7mm outside and 5mm inside, though it is corrugated.

The install was simple aside from a crazy double reverse latching hose clamp, which surely deserves a design award.  I had to set a flat screwdriver in a vice (set to pry one side open) while using another flat screwdriver in one hand (to pry the other side), and held the clip in the other hand, in order to open it up.  The only thing that makes sense is that Ford has access to 3 handed alien tech, likely through their connections with the lizard persons...who I assume also have 3 hands.  Oddly the other hose clamps were of the simple (human based) one side clip design, so I'm not sure why they made this one extra spicy:

The CR10S Pro is a great printer out of the box, but I have made some minor (and major) upgrades to my version 1 CR10S Pro (which has a capacitive probe standard).  Below are some of them (updated 1/6/2022):

• Replaced the stock Capacitive sensor with an Inductive Sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX), more info is here. Update 1/6/2022 - I am now using a 3D Touch probe (BL-Touch clone), which seems to be faster, but is probably just as good as the inductive probe.  You can find these cheaper on Ebay often, they should be around 10 bucks.
• Replaced the brass z-axis nuts with POM anti-backlash nuts, more info is here.
• Swapped the wheels on the Y-axis with polycarbonate wheels.  I'm still testing these and have seen some white dust from them but they did solve a problem due to a faulty bearing on one of the old wheels.
• Added a PEI sheet (310x320mm) which works great (sometimes too well on PETG and TPU though).  The GizmoDorks PEI sheet linked is great since it is thick enough to be sanded if needed.  I would sugget knocking down the corners with a razor or file though, snce the stock bed has a fillet and the sheet does not (I cut my finger on the edge before I got smart and trimmed them down).  Update 1/6/2022 - I switched to a magnetic spring steel build plate with PEI, which was difficult to install (the way I did it) and may have caused my bed to warp, but it's all good now.
• Added the extruder arm fix from Tinymachines.
• Added a printed cable chain for the ribbon cable (V2 version here).
• Added a strain relief cable chain on the bed cable
  
• Added a filament guide
  
• Extended the micro-sd card from the display to make it easier to upgrade.
• Updated the firmware to Tinymachines (and now DGUS Reloaded)
• Designed a dry box system using Rubbermaid 21 Cup storage boxes.  I have it set up to feed from the top of my enclosure.
  
• Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend for the CR10S Pro (note that the CR10S Pro has a specific hot end and tne normal CR10 hot end will not work).  This was probably the best upgrade on my printer so far, however the stock hot end is no slouch either.  Some folks have different opinions of this hot end though, it has been very solid for my printer.
• I added a BMG clone extruder as a direct drive, with my Hydra Remix for the CR10S Pro.  I'm also working on an endoscope camera mount.  The direct drive has been a great upgrade, it is amazing how much better the quality of the prints have been and I think it is down to the much lower retraction needed. 
• It's not specific to this printer, but I also use an OctoPi with it, which runs on a Pi 4B (4G), though I have another running on a 3B+ without issues.  Now the best option is probably the Pi Zero 2 W for only $15, though there are some compromises with that vs the full size Pi3B and Pi4's.
• I also use these leveling blocks to keep the x-axis gantry in proper trim (which I rarely need to mess with thanks to the anti-backlast nuts).

I saw a thread on Reddit regading a worn Y-Axis belt on a CR10S Pro V2, and thought I would check mine.  Fortunately it looks OK, however I can see a potential problem with the alignment of the pulley (or maybe its fine since it's not worn).  It looks however as though the tensioner should be a few mm lower.  The simple fix would be to just raise or lower the gear, but since mine is working nicely and shows no sign of wear, I'm not touching it unless that changes.  It may be that when there is wear, it is due to the gear being set just a mm too low, causing the belt to be dragging down on the idler which is a couple of stacked flange bearings.  

After thinking about this, I think the way mine is set up is correct (and of course I had nothing to do with that :D).  I think this because one edge of the belt is held in place by the lip of the flange bearing, which probably helps it to stay in position.  Also with the belt biased to the lower bearing on the idler, it may keep it from wandering or distorting as much (vs being centered on the idler between the flange bearings).  Likely the belt is just lightly riding on the lower flange bearing, but if there was more pressure there, it would probably be worn.