I recently had a clog in my X1C, and during the troubleshooting, I removed a bowden guide which I printed to help the tube make a more graceful bend into the effector. However that part seemed to be creating a problem with filament getting stuck, and removing it helped. The root of the problem though is not the guide, its that the X1C needs a Bowden guide in the first place. The trouble is due to a very minimal clearance between the top glass cover and the effector, which results in a tight bend as the Bowden tube goes into the extruder. When I went looking for risers, I found one that looks pretty amazing, it's called the DK Riser, and has some really good design work that went into it. I was gonna print it, but realized that I don't want my printer to have any openings, even if they have cool TPU seals. So I decided to remix that design a bit, to close the holes off. I also added a power switch for the lights, and a DC input jack on the back. When I thought I was done, I decided to increase the height just a bit more as well, so added 12mm to the thickness of the riser, which will give the Bowden tube even more clearance to move around and hopefully not hit the glass. I need to test and print this of course, so it's gonna be a while before this gets posted.
Update 10/28/2023: I think the design for the DK Riser Remix is completed, and am now printing the prototype. Even though this remix will be a very bare bones riser (without any vents), compared to the original, I decided to spice it up a bit with a few extra features, including the following:
- A switch on the front, with a wire channel and covers, so there is no exposed wiring.
- Customizable label plate.
- Holder for the best tool for the Bambu printers with an AMS.
- A slide in frame to allow using a Brother P-Touch label to notate the voltage for the LED's (so the wrong power supply is not accidentally connected to them). The frame just covers the edges of the label and makes it look a bit nicer.
- There is also a DC input jack on the back, so there will be no wires hanging off the riser.
Update 10/31/2023: The design is pretty much done, I just need to install the LED's, which will be here tomorrow. I went with some USB powered LED's, which I hope is not a mistake, but if they are a problem, I will figure out some other use for them.
This prototype allowed me to update the design with some improvements related to installing the wiring. The holes were a bit too small so while I struggle to install them, the design which will be uploaded will have much more clearance. Other than that, its pretty much the same. I'm really surprised how well TPU prints on the X1C, though getting it off (the cold sheet) is difficult. I used the liquid bed "glue" as a release agent before each TPU print, and then dabbed on a bit of IPA to help remove the TPU parts, which helped.
This prototype allowed me to update the design with some improvements related to installing the wiring. The holes were a bit too small so while I struggle to install them, the design which will be uploaded will have much more clearance. Other than that, its pretty much the same. I'm really surprised how well TPU prints on the X1C, though getting it off (the cold sheet) is difficult. I used the liquid bed "glue" as a release agent before each TPU print, and then dabbed on a bit of IPA to help remove the TPU parts, which helped.
Update 11/1/2023: The prototype is completed and works. I had to make some on the fly modifications to one of the covers, but that will be fixed in the finalized design which gets posted. My prototype also had less space for wiring and running the wires, than the final design has, but even so, I was able to get it wired up without too much of a problem. The USB LED's work great, and I can dim them using the remote, which also has a timer feature to set them to turn off after 4 hours. The switch on the front can be shut off which does not seem to change the last state of the LED's. So if I set the LED's to 50% brightness and shut off the front switch (which is connected to the LED strip), the LED's will come back on at 50% if I turn the switch back on. I may check the power draw of the controller when the LED's are off vs when they are on to see how much standby power it consumes. Overall though, I really like it, and especially like that the bowden tube has much more clearance to run free now, so I don't need to use any guides or worry about feeding issues due to the sharp bend. The lights are also a nice upgrade.
Update 11/2/2023: Just got everything done and took a few more pics. There is one minor change I may add before I upload it, though it's not a huge deal either way.
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