I wanted to drop some links and info on a couple of CAD programs which I think are interesting (and are on sale).

The first is Punch! ViaCAD, which is on version 14 now.  I started off with (I think) version 7 and currently run version 12 Pro with the "Power Pack".  It is easy to use (which is saying a lot for CAD software), and does the job, though my experience is that it tends to crash every few hours, which is frustrating.  Thanks to using ViaCAD for so many years, I am in the habit of saving every 15 minutes or when I reach a point where losing the work would really set me back.  So I have a bit of a love, hate relationship with ViaCAD.  I guess I fall more on the "love" side though, since I was considering upgrading to version 14 Pro (with the "Power Pack"), when I saw it was on sale today for 30% off (coupon code "PCBFCM30").  However when I searched their forums, it seems they may not have fixed some of the stability issues.  I'm sure they will eventually, but if you consider ViaCAD, it should be noted that the entry price is low, but to get some features as simple as a push-pull tool, the Pro version is required, and now we are talking some bucks (about 499 of them to be exact).  The "Power Pack" adds more features, which I don't use too often, but are really handy for converting (simple) STL's, so I can work on them, and also for threading.   Despite all the wonderful CAD tools out there for free or much less, I've stuck with ViaCAD for many years, since it has a great user interface (in my opinion of course).  What it lacks in power, or stability, I've made up for with work-arounds and constant saving.  But in a nutshell, I cannot recommend it to a new user unless they are willing to deal with possible stability issues, but hey, it's on sale.

So that brings me to what I'm thinking may be worth diving into next, CAD-wise.  I've heard good things in the past about Plasticity, which is a new kid on the block for CAD applications.  It's similar to ViaCAD in that it is geared towards direct modeling, and not parametric modeling (think sculpting vs drafting).  That's not to say that you cannot make a good production ready model using ViaCAD or Plasticity, it's just how you get there is a bit different than software like Fusion.  Something that kind'a blew my mind though with Plasticity, was the xNURBs "library" which is added functionality that can pretty much work magic when creating unusual surfaces that are "watertight" (xNURBs is offered in the "studio version only).  Still, even after seeing all the magical and cool stuff that Plasticity offered, I went back to using ViaCAD to resume working on a project.  Then it happened, a simple translation operation caused ViaCAD to grind to a stop, and I had to wait, and wait... and wait, with the hope that it was not going to crash (which it didn't).  In fairness the slowness was probably related to the complexity of the model, and not the translate operation, but at this point the slowness is a regular and expected, yet very frustrating occurrence.  I'm also better than 50% in guessing when a crash will occur after an operation, with the radial blend tool being the odds on favorite for causing one.  It seemed like a sign from the CAD gods, so I took the $260 I was gonna spend to upgrade my ViaCAD 12 Pro to 14 Pro (with Power Pack I'd add), and bought the Plasticity "Studio" package (with the magic xNURBs sauce), and had 20 bucks to spare.

I know this is gonna take time to shift over to learning and using Plasticity, and it may end up being something I use when ViaCAD runs out of road.  But if it is stable, that will be a huge time savings.  I literally spend at least a quarter to third of my time while modeling, waiting for operations, saving (frequently) or recovering from crashes.  All those interruptions really mess with the "flow" during modeling.  So I figure that if I invest some of that time into learning Plasticity, it will pay dividends in the future.  Plasticity also seems to have some buzz around it, and what seems like an active user base.  I'm not gonna say that ViaCAD should not be considered though, since I still think it is about the easiest to learn, and my experience with the crashing may be unique.  It may also be that there is some underlying problem with my PC that creeps up when I use it (though I've read enough posts in their forums to think it may be more a "them" problem than a "me" problem).  If Punch! could really fix the stability issues in ViaCAD, I'd have no problem recommending it, and would probably upgrade too, but for now I'm gonna hedge my bet, and try out Plasticity (on the next project).  

Joseph Prusa just answered the challenge that Bambu put to him, starting with the Bambu X1 Carbon Kickstarter back in 2022.  I was getting a little worried that their answer was the Prusa XL, which despite being a premiere product, is not really something on the level of an X1C+AMS for ease of use.  Their new Prusa CORE One on the other hand, will check a lot of the boxes for both home users and businesses.  Though it also appears to lack some of the quality of life features that the Bambu printers are well known for. 

​Starting with the positives, the CORE One has active chamber control for printing some difficult materials, though I don't think it has an additional heater for the chamber (I have not read about that at least).  This probably means that there is a vent fan which attempts to hold the chamber temp in a range, but the heating is likely provided by the waste heat from the bed and hot end.  There is also a reasonably large print volume of 250×220×270 mm.  That is not as large as the 256×256×256 mm volume of the X1 and P1 Bambu printers, but plenty large for a mid-size printer.  It may be a bit small for doing full size cosplay helmets, but other than that, the volume seems like a big positive in my opinion.  The Prusa lacks a cutter as well, so does not take the hit from having a small bite out of the front left corner of the build plate (as the X1 and P1 printers do).  The CORE One has a reasonably svelte footprint of 415x444x555mm (for comparison to the X1C's x,y,z footprint is 389×389×457mm), and the door can be mounted to open from either side.  The footprint incorporates a spool holder in the side, which could give some additional benefit, depending on how the printer is oriented.  The MK4S features are carried over to the CORE One, which is both a smart and typically Prusa thing to do.  That also leads to probably the biggest positive for the CORE One, which is that they will offer a conversion kit to upgrade a MK4S to the CORE One!  If the pricing on the conversion kit offers a reasonable discount to the CORE One kit, it will be 'uge. 

Prusa also took square aim at the biggest hangup for some users (or potential users) of Bambu printers, which is the perception of security.  Regardless of what you think of the security of Bambu Printers, they are very proprietary, with opaque firmware and encrypted communications back to the mothership.  There are perfectly legitimate reasons for that though, and most people would not want even the innocuous printer data sent in the clear.  So for home users, I feel the issue is largely overblown.  For business users however, especially ones that have special use cases or an IT department that must approve anything that touches their networks, the question of security is paramount.  For it's part, Bambu launched the X1E, which is basically an X1C with an ethernet port (and some other upgrades).  However Bambu's X1E may not be enough to assuage some users, and the premium is quite steep (around $2500 as I recall), which makes space for the CORE One.

So what does the CORE One offer to these security conscious users?  Primarily, it has an ethernet port standard (as well as Wi-Fi), and allows for sneakernet firmware upgrades over USB, when a printer must be isolated from the network.  You can of course run a Bambu printer in LAN Mode, and they have opened up offline firmware updates over USB for the X1C too (though I have not tried that out on mine).  Still though, I think it is a positive for Prusa that they will be introducing their printer with those capabilities baked in, which will check some boxes for business customers. 

Prusa is also well known for being supportive of open source, though for the CORE One it's complicated.  But it should offer more customization (aka "hackability") out of the box, than the Bambu offerings.  That could be very useful if doing something like automating a print farm, or adding some special processes to the printer for off the wall applications.  And with the possibility of a big chunk of the existing MK4S user base converting over to the CORE One eventually, the possibilities of community mods for the printer is also pretty good too.     

So What's not to like?  Well for one, the Prusa multi-material unit (MMU) runs another $300-360, and lacks an enclosure or spool rewinders like the AMS.  The MMU3 is also just as limited in being truly multi-material as the Bambu AMS, since with both the Bambu printers and the Prusa CORE One, there is only one extruder (unlike the Prusa XL with the optional, additional print heads).  Maybe Prusa will address the lack of a material enclosure with something new and innovative, but for now, my humble opinion is that the AMS is difficult to beat for a plug and play answer to multi-color printing.  I also feel that Prusa missed an opportunity to make an effective air filtration system for their new printer.  I'm sure that there will be 3rd party solutions, but an effective, integrated system to manage air quality would be a leg up over the Bambu printers, and other premium printers on the market. And finally, the price for the printer volume is very close to the Bambu offerings, which is both good and bad.  It's good that the CORE One is a reasonably sized printer with competitive features.  But the not so good is that the Prusa CORE One seems closer on key features to something between a P1S and an X1E (or X1C for regular consumers).  Yet if compared to the P1S (on the lower end) on price alone, the CORE One is quite a bit more expensive.    

I think, or maybe hope, that there is enough room for the Prusa CORE One and the Bambu P1/X1 printers to peacefully co-exist, since both companies are innovators which have really advanced the tech in consumer 3D printing.  It seems to me at least, that Prusa is not targeting the same customers as Bambu, which are the folks that are buying a first or maybe second printer, and just want a frictionless experience from unboxing to printing.  That should be no surprise though, since Prusa knows who it's customers are.  They are people who have enough experience with 3D printing to understand the ins and outs of basic calibration and printer maintenance, and the scar tissue to understand the value of a quality product.  They are also users who may value a more open platform which they can maintain with many (though definitely not all) off the shelf parts if needed.  That Prusa is offering an upgrade path for current MK4S owners, and a kit version of the CORE One as an option, should underline that point.  There is going to be overlap for commercial and educational users though, where Bambu and Prusa can fight it out.  That overlap is probably also what focused Stratasys like the Eye of Sauron on Bambu, so hopefully Prusa can continue to fly below the radar, and not get swept up in a similar ugly drama. 

Opening up a new front with Bambu, before Bambu releases it's next big thing in early 2025, is a smart move for Prusa.  Even if they won't directly compete with whatever Bambu releases next, it seems likely Bambu will incorporate lessons from the X1C and X1E into their new product, in order to appeal to commercial and educational users (which the CORE One also targets).  I'm happy to see that Prusa has finally answered the challenge from Bambu's X1/P1 series in their own unique way, and the CORE One looks like the perfect "Prusa" Printer to do it.    

I recently bought a BestArc (gasless) "MIG 145", which I have only used one time so far, but it seems to be a nice welder for the price.  I bought the flux core only version, but they have another very similar welder with the gas valves for "real" MIG welding.  As I noted in my earlier post about buying a welder (and finding the BestArc), I found that my welding skills went to crap after not doing much to begin with, and then having a many years lapse in practice where I never had a welder.  No big surprise there.  So I'm not the best person to make a recommendation on these things, but I will say that this welder, which is an inverter welder with "synergic" control, would have been a much easier welder to learn with.  I still need to get used to the synergic control, but from what I understand, it automagically controls the current and wire feed speed, and from what I could tell it worked pretty well.  The only recommendation I can make with some degree of confidence is that anti-splatter spray is awesome stuff (but read the warnings).  I just sprayed the part I was welding, and the tip, and it seemed to keep the boogers down quite a bit (though it didn't make my welds any better).  

There are a few things I feel need some improvements with the Bestarc MIG 145 though.  One issue, which I went into on the earlier post, is the lack of written warranty info, which I feel is pretty necessary these days.  Still, a wise man once said "Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time."  In any case, I hope to not need to use their warranty (they told me it's got a 1 year warranty for what it's worth).  The second issue, which is more of a general problem I have with tools that have lots of cables permanently attached, is the cable management.  Why make a nice,  compact welder, and then attach a big ole cable to it for a MIG torch - permanently?  I know the answer is cost, and to be honest that's why I bought it. 

I knew cable management would be an issue when I bought it, so I modeled some parts that would help me to keep everything a bit more tidy, while also providing a place to stow some extra nozzles and tools.  I liked the way it turned out, and it seems like there should be little in the way of downsides to the setup.  I wish I had moved the power cable spool a half cm forward though, but even where it is, I think the shoulder strap would still work.  I also managed to attach a chipping hammer under one of the Velcro straps, though with a MIG welder, a wire brush is more practical.  There is a place to hold a tip wrench (which snaps in place), and four small compartments with latching lids, which can hold spare nozzles, wire feed rollers, tips, and tip holders.  The attachments add some bulk, however it is much more organized and easier to manage, without cables flopping everywhere.  I'm considering adding a couple more items, like a clip to hold a welding helmet, maybe some way of attaching a brush, and a flashlight holder - or I may just keep it like it is.

It's been a while since I started working on a 2nd version of the X1C/P1S riser, and unfortunately that project sort'a stalled out when other smaller things popped up.  Today however I got some time and worked on the design a bit more.  It was actually a pretty extensive re-working of several parts of the design, but I think it will be worth it.  The biggest changes are the addition of WAGO 221-412 connectors, which should remove the need for soldering.  The WAGO's will go into a printed holder, which will then go into the riser.  I need to see if the holder can be glued in place (that is if the WAGO's can be removed if I glue the holder in place).  I have just one small problem though, which is a complete lack of WAGO 221-412 connectors.  I'm gonna pick some up to test.

The 2nd change is a modification to the TPU top gasket, which should make printing it a bit easier.  The new design will be a bit thicker where the overhang is, and I'm planning possibly more tweaks to it.  That will take more time and material though, and I'm pretty low on TPU, so it will be a bit.

Mici over on MakerWorld and Printables is an awesome designer I follow, who has many unique Dummy 13 remixes.  Most recently, Mici has released a really cool Lunar Rover based on the new NASA Artemis Lunar Rover, which goes perfectly with the Dummy 13 Astronauts.  I'm building one now, and just have to print the wheels and it will be done.  It is recommended to print the wheels in TPU, but with most direct drive printers these days, that is not really a problem.  If you like Mici's model, please give it a like over on MakerWorld, since it is entered in their Space Explorations Contest:

 https://makerworld.com/en/models/770027#profileId-705787

​Below are some work in progress pics of the lunar rover build.  I'm also planning to release a few designs which complement the rover soon as well, and will link them here when they are ready.  The "fuzzy" dice in the last pic mount under the disc shaped part on the windscreen.  The fuzzy dice for Mici's Moon Rover will be released in the next couple days. 

I still need to get the wheels done, but I thought I'd have some fun with this...

Update 11/10/2024:  I uploaded the cinder block used in the pics above, along with the "fuzzy" dice and also a Roadside Emergency Kit for Dummy 13.  The Alien dude will be uploaded in the next few days.

Update 11/11/2024:  The buggy was finished yesterday, and I think it turned out great.  The integrated supports on the tires was really easy to remove, which is impressive since the wheels are printed in TPU. 

Update 11/12/2024:  The Alien Dummy 13 is done.  I had to make some small modifications to several armor and frame parts from the original Dummy 13 model, since at 80% scale, some parts were a bit tight.  You can find the models over on MakerWorld or Printables.

I just wanted to make a quick post about a couple small projects that I'm trying to knock out, before getting back to some of the older ones that have been languishing at 90% or better.  

The first are some Halloween beads.  I'm just waiting for Amazon to deliver some 3mm shock cord, so I can post some pics of the competed project.  

​Update 10/26/2024:  The Halloween beads are now uploaded on Printables and Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/733981#profileId-665742

​https://www.printables.com/model/1052521-halloween-bracelet-and-necklace-beads

I'm also working on some new 1x5, 2x5 and 3x5 lidded bins with a latch.  I've so far just uploaded the 1x5 bin, which was added to the existing 1x bins on Printables.  Once they are all done, I will make sure they are also on Makerworld.

Finally, I have a small side project to replace a crappy attic access panel in a network closet (which was a piece of plasterboard) with an insulated plywood panel.  I added some simple handles and a pair of dogs to secure it.  The dogs have magnets which keep them stowed in the open position, so they don't flop around when the panel is removed.  I'm just gonna make up some spacers, so it can be a bit more universal, before I post it.  

Update - the Access Panel is now uploaded:
https://www.printables.com/model/1051531-attic-access-panel-handles-and-hatch-dogs

Update 11/2/2024:  The 1x5, 2x5 an 3x5 large lidded bins are uploaded, you can find them here:

1. 1x2, 1x3, 1x4, 1x5 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0
2. 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, 2x5 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0
3. 3x3, 3x4, 3x5 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0
4. 4x4, 4x5 (6U, 9U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0

If you have considered a 3D printer, I can highly recommend the Bambu X1C (with AMS) which is on sale as part of Bambu Lab's Black Friday sale (Oct.21st 2024 05:00AM (PDT) - Dec.3rd 2024 00:00AM (PST)).  The discounts are pretty decent on the X1+AMS combo which normally runs $1450 but is on sale for $1200.  

I bought my first X1C over a year ago, and was skeptical that the LiDAR would work, but it's a feature I would not want to be without now.  It was the first printer which literally just printed great the first time out of the box - in multicolor, which is really something impressive for a 3D printer.  If you've never used a 3D printer before, one of the steepest learning curves is calibration, and that is where the LiDAR on the X1C shines.  I used to have to run at least one, sometimes two or more test objects, to set up a new material (filament) on my old printers (Ender3, CR10SPro and a Kossel).  That calibration process takes time, is iterative, and can be subjective.  The X1C's LiDAR does all the calibration necessary if it is run as part of a print, and has worked with anything I've thrown at it.  There are some caveats however, the first is that the calibration does not work well on textured build plates, and if running more than one color on a print, the calibration has to be run separately (since it will only run one color when doing the auto calibration as part of a print).  The calibration is also only run at the beginning of a print, and does not actively manage flow through feedback, as the A1 series printers do.  However none of those limitations has been much of an issue for me.  I'd probably buy another X1C combo if I had the space, since they just work,

The P1S is also a good printer, but lacks the LiDAR and touchscreen of the X1C (though there are now some good options for adding a DIY or aftermarket touchscreen).  The A1 series are not enclosed, but they have an "Active Flow Rate Compensation" system which manages flow throughout the print.  I am not too familiar with that system, but I don't think it actually sets the flow rate like the LiDAR on the X1C will, however it will manage the flow which is set in the slicer, throughout the print (unlike the X1C).  The people I know who have A1 series printers have liked them, with one exception (which was due to some bad linear rails on an A1 I believe.  The A1 Mini is well known to be a great starter printer, and is a pretty inexpensive way to try out 3D printing.  Overall though the A1's would be a good choice as a first printer, but I'd pick up or build an enclosure, if I were running one (and also set up some method of ducting the air outside or filtering to avoid indoor air pollution).  Really, any printer, even the X1C and P1S should be enclosed though, since their enclosures are not air tight and they don't have effective built in filtering (very few consumer printers do though).  

Bambu is probably gonna release a new printer in Q1 2025, however that is expected to be more (possibly much more) expensive than the X1C, but will likely have a larger build volume and some other goodies (I'm hoping for a multi toolhead printer myself).  I don't think it will be in the same class as their current lineup though.

I don't receive any commissions from Bambu for this, I just wanted to pass it along.  

October 8-9 is Amazon's "Big Deals" Day, and although there are many "meh" deals, there are some very good prices on filament.  One in particular is for Duramic3D.  The prices are especially good for 2 packs of their PLA and PLA+, though the PETG is also on sale (but fewer deals there).  You can save an extra buck sometimes by choosing Subscribe and Save (and cancel it anytime if you don't like the future price).  I picked up a couple 2 packs of white PLA+ for a project.  I've used their white PLA+ in the past, and had some issues with the winding on some spools.  But the color is great, and it prints nicely, and the price is right, so I'm taking another chance with them.  Oddly it was only the white PLA+ which I had the issues with, so hopefully they resolved the issue (I've had zero issues with their gray, silver, black and blue filaments).  

There are also deals on Elegoo PLA+ (including some very nice Galaxy Peacock Blue which prints beautifully), as well as Anycubic PLA and 3DHJor PETG.  

Update 10/9/2024:  There are also some good deals on Creality PLA today, for around 10 bucks (or a bit less) a spool.

​You can also find information on registering to vote in each state, from the National Association of Secretaries of State (https://www.nass.org/can-I-vote). 

The NASS site also has a pdf document with Election Dates and Deadlines by State:

https://www.nass.org/sites/default/files/reports/election-dates-deadlines-august2024.pdf
​

I recently picked up the cheapest (gasless) MIG welder (that I could find) on Amazon for $47.99 after coupon (40D3IP48).  I know, it feels weird referring to a flux core wire feed welder as a "gasless" MIG, but it seems to be the accepted shorthand for what these things are.  I haven't welded in years, but I have some projects I need one for, so I planned to use it to knock those out, and then and write a review here for it.  However, when the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" arrived a couple days late, I immediately knew something was up.  The box had too much tape on it, and it smelled like a used welder.  Inside the box, the welder looked mostly OK, however the feet were dirty, and the stick holder was gritty and scratched up.  Whoever sent it back, either used it for a project and sent it back (without bothering to clean it up), or it had a problem, and the welder was somehow placed back in the mix of new products.  Either way, it's not my problem anymore.  I just took some pics, boxed it up and drove it back to UPS.  Dealing with whatever caused the last person to use it and then return it, is not worth the hassle.  

It sucks a bit though, since I still need a welder.  As for the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140", it actually seemed pretty nice on paper and mostly OK in person (it's an inverter with synergistic wire feed).  I didn't bother to turn it on or test anything, since it was going back.  So about all I can say about it is that it's compact and lightweight, it has the same MIG torch as all the other lower end MIG welders, the ground clamp looked OK, and the label inside the side cover (for the wire spool and feeder compartment) had some recommended settings, but it was very small fine print, and difficult to read.  The settings table also did not make much sense, based on the settings shown on the knobs.  The used stick holder was beefy, and would definitely do the job (and probably did, LOL), but it was nothing special of course.  There were a couple spare tips, but I did not see any wire drive rollers (aside from the one already installed).  There was also no spool of wire, which I don't think was supposed to be included, but seeing how it was used, the last person may have forgotten to put it back in the box.
 
I think the settings could be deduced from a bit of educated guesswork, and some trial and error fine tuning, but it would be nice if they included a copy of the settings in the manual (which did not have a table for them).  For less than one portrait of US Grant though, it was probably a bargain, if it were actually a new welder.  But I don't feel like rolling the dice again, even though it's unlikely I would get another used welder.  So I'm back to searching for a decent (and cheap) MIG (gas or gasless) inverter welder.  Normally "decent" and "cheap" would not go together, but there seems to be plenty of imported inverter MIG welders out there in the sub $100 to $160 range. 

The Bestarc MIG145 is at the top of my list right now, but I have yet to find any info on it's warranty (I emailed them to ask, and will update this post with what I find out).  The Bestarc MIG welders seem to be heavily promoted to YouTubers lately, which is not by itself a negative, but it does make me a bit skeptical.  I have yet to see one review which mentioned anything negative, or mentioned what the warranty is on the units.  A few of the videos are a bit comical as well, with some of the folks who received free welders, clearly not bothering to skim the manual, and struggling because of it. 

​Most of the cheaper MIG welders are limited to 2lb spools, which is plenty for small projects that I'd use it for, but notable since they do cost more per pound of wire.  The very low end welders are also gasless (so they require flux core wire).  Flux core is a bit nasty and more expensive, but fine for running outdoors (with a mask).  A gas setup is cleaner, but also expensive and heavy.  It would easily cost as much, or even double the cost of the welder, to use gas, depending on how the tank is sourced.  For me, gas is a "nice to have", but not worth more than 30-40 bucks to have the option, since I will likely not use it.  One small downside (in my opinion) of the Bestarc MIG145 (and the "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140"), is that they have non-removable MIG torches.  The "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" is also missing any strain relief for the torch.  The torch is one part that I'd like to be able to swap out if needed, without tearing down the machine.  But that is more of a "later on" problem, since the included torches seem OK.

Update 9/26/2024: I contacted Bestarc about the warranty on their MIG welders and they got back pretty quickly.  They said that the warranty is for one year, and support is provided by the seller.  I was also advised that if there is a "quality problem" during the warranty period, the buyer and seller would negotiate how to repair the welder or return it (which may be an expensive proposition if the buyer has to foot the shipping bill - though also sadly typical).  They noted that outside the warranty period, the seller "can" provide technical support.  I asked them if I purchase the welder from the Bestarc Store on Amazon, would  I be able to work directly with Bestarc on warranty or technical issues, since it would seem they would be the seller.  I'm waiting for confirmation on that question, and will update here when I find out.

So the warranty situation for Bestarc is not great, but it's probably about average for lower end imported welders (I should point out though, that the inexpensive "GZ GUOZHI MIG-140" also claims a 1 year warranty).  For comparison, YesWelder states a 1-3 year warranty (1 year on their least expensive MIG welders, of course), and ArcCaptain offers a 2 year warranty on MIG welders .  Those warranty terms appear to be for purchases from their own web storefronts however.  For YesWelder I also found warranty terms on TractorSupply, which are similar. I could not find warranty terms for Bestarc, YesWelder or ArcCaptain on Amazon however.  The warranty terms for YesWelder and ArcCaptain warranties are also oddly similar, for what it's worth.  To their credit, YesWelder and ArcCaptain both provide their warranty terms on their site (for direct purchases from their own stores at least), which I could not find on the Bestarc site.

The requirement to deal with the seller could be a problem, since the warranty or technical support can only be as good as the seller the welder was purchased from, and who knows what their level of knowledge or ability will be.  For what it's worth, I've seen Bestarc stuff on sale at AliExpress from multiple sellers (which I'd avoid, due to the warranty and tech support going through the seller).  In my opinion, the manufacturer should provide the support directly to the customer, at least when bought from authorized dealers.  Hopefully Bestarc will provide direct support to customers if they purchase a welder from their Amazon storefront, otherwise I will have to keep looking.  I will update when I get a reply on that question from them. 

Doh!  And now I'm kicking myself for not asking Bestarc for their full warranty terms.  Oh well. 

Update 2 9/26/2024:  Bestarc support replied, but asked for a copy of my receipt.  Clearly there is a miscommunication, so I explained that I have not yet purchased, and asked if I buy a welder from the Bestarc Amazon Store, if the warranty and technical support will go through Bestarc, or some other party.   I also asked for the full warranty terms for their welders, which really should be easily available for potential buyers to look at.

The problem with warranties which do not go through the manufacturer, is that they can end up being a game of finger pointing between the seller and the manufacturer, where the customer loses or is just worn down.  It also looks like some companies put the costs of warranty and technical support onto the seller (who has already made their money from the sale).  Hopefully buying from the "company store" will allow a customer to deal directly with the manufacturer, and avoid some of the hassles of dealing with middlemen.  So "why don't you just buy the extended warranty through Asurion?" you may ask?  Well, it looks like Asurion is going through some restructuring, and doing layoffs, so I'd rather not take the chance (more discussion about that on Reddit).  Something that can help though, is to buy with a credit card that extends the warranty, since that is free(ish), and could give an extra year or two over what the manufacturer offers.

And now I see that there is a sale on the Bestarc MIG 145 gas and gasless welders.  The gas welder is actually $5 more expensive than it was yesterday (after a $30 off coupon) at $145, however the gasless welder is a pretty decent deal at $95 (IIRC it was $125 after a $25 off coupon yesterday).  I'm probably gonna pick up the gasless welder at that price, and hope that Bestarc does directly support buyers from their Amazon Store (which would make the most sense).  Of course, I hope that I never need warranty support LOL.

Update 3 9/26/2024:  Well I'm a sucker for a deal, so I bought the Bestarc MIG 145 (gasless) welder for $95 bucks (without any of the Asurion plans of course).  The welder is on sale until 23:30 EST today, if you are interested in checking it out as well.  When it gets here, and I can use it, I will post some pics and a review (for the MIG functions, since I don't have any experience with stick welding).  I will also update on the warranty terms (at least when buying from the BestArc Amazon Store), when I get the info.

Edit - the sale is now over, so the gasless MIG 145 is now $105 (after $25 off coupon), but the regular (gas or gasless) MIG 145 is down to $140 after a $30 coupon (which is a better deal than yesterday's Lighting Deal). 

Update 4 10/3/2024:  I last sent Bestarc support an email on 9/29 (correction) to ask about the full warranty terms when buying from their Amazon storefront, but I have not received any answer yet, so I sent them another email.  This should not be that difficult honestly, but I've bought the welder so hopefully I won't need their support anyway.  I've not had time to test it yet, but I did check the box and everything looks good and they include a spare drive roller.  IIRC the rollers are a 0.8 and 0.9mm and a 0.8 and 1.0mm, with both being knurled which is the preferred type for fluxcore.  The packaging and the welder look really nice and compact.  I'm hoping to be able to test it out this weekend. 

The one issue I have with it (without testing it again), is the same problem that most small welders have - how to store all the cables?  So I'm working on a possible solution to the cable management mess, at least for my welder, which of course will use 3D printing.  If it works out, I will post some more info on that in another post probably.  

​Update 10/5/2024:  No response from Bestarc regarding warranty terms for a purchase from their Amazon store yet, and I'm starting to think they will not reply further.  There is nothing about the warranty that I could find in the manual.  I will try contacting the seller through amazon to see if they will provide the full warranty info. 

In any case I cannot test the welder since the batteries in my auto darkening welding hood are dead.  I ordered a 6v coin cell holder to replace them.  Something interesting (or maybe not) is that the welder has a smell of black licorice, so I had to take it outside.  If storing it indoors, I think I'd need to keep it in a case of some sort, otherwise the place would smell like a Harbor Freight (and also like black licorice).  I'm sure it will off gas eventually and stop stinking, but it's notable.  

Update 10/8/2024:  I got an answer to the question of "can I get a copy of the warranty" by contacting the seller through Amazon (the Bestarc Amazon Store), and they explained that there is no written warranty, but they also said it has a 1 year warranty and they will try to assist with problems.  I'm a bit surprised, since Bestarc has a following for their plasma cutters, and seem to be an established brand, but it is what it is.  To keep things in perspective, it is a $105 welder, and a fair bit of kit for that price, so if it lasts a few years, it will be worth the money easily.  I'm still waiting on the part to fix my auto darkening welding hood, so have not been able to test it out, but my initial impression is good, with the unit itself.

Update 11/13/2024:  I finally had time (with good weather) to try out the welder for more than a quick test.  Unfortunately it was getting dark and my welds were crap (yep, that's what I'm going with).  To be honest though, I was holding a flashlight while trying to do the welds and there was a marked difference between the welds I did in the fading daylight and those I did under the flashlight.  The welder however can make good welds in the right hands, I'm sure.  But it has been years since I last welded, and I definitely need some more practice.  I can say though that the setup was easy, and having a feed button is great, and saves some time.  The feed mechanism is all plastic, but seems durable enough, and it comes with two drive wheels (IIRC they were 1.0/0.8 and 0.8/0.9mm).  This is not a negative, but something worth noting, I found that the ceramic gassless MIG tips like these, were too tight to go on using the stock tip holder.  I probably could have swapped the tip holder, but decided to just spray the tip with some anti-splater.  The only actual downside I found so far, when inspecting the area where the wire feeds, is that there is an open area where the back of the display board can be seen when the lid is open.  That should be closed off, and I may need to make something to cover it. 

Speaking of making something for the welder, I already have some printed parts I'm gonna stick on it, to assist with cable management.  Since the MIG cable is attached and not removable, the cable management is pretty haphazard, but I think I can fix that.  

I'm not going to post pics of my welds, since it would not do the welder any justice, but maybe if I can improve my skills a bit during the daytime I will post some.  The one thing that stood out though was, as bad as my technique is, there was very little popping, and the arc was nice and smooth.  I "learned" on an older non-inverter welder, which was less forgiving, so this was a nice surprise.  I do however need to re-read the manual, since I think it could have used a bit more voltage than what it was set for.  The dial adjusts by +/- 3v, but it was close to the right setting based on the 16 gauge material I was using, so I went with it.  But the upside of making crap welds, is that I get to practice my grinding skills.