About 4 years ago, I had to re-level my dad's pool filter, and fix a few couplers on it.  At the time the fix was a bit of a kludge, but it actually lasted much longer than I expected.  This season, when he went to start up the pool, the filter started spewing water, which was due to a broken lower bulkhead fitting on the filter.  And that was due to the filter shifting again, putting stress on the fitting.  So it was time to do the job again, and hopefully better this time.  The root of the problem is the slab that the filter sets on, which had cracked pretty badly, and had to be swapped out.  I could have poured a new slab, but decided to pick up a pre-fab slab instead.  I hit the new slab with a couple coats of Thompson's Water Seal spray before I started removing the old one.  The pre-fab slab was about 3" thick, vs the 2" thick slab that was in there, so I had to lower everything, which became quite the job.  Fortunately there was one brick set below the old slab, which I could use to gauge how low to set the new base (below the slab).  That required doing one half the of the base at a time though, so I could level to the old block, remove the old block and then do the side the block was on.

Since I planned to swap the sand in the filter out, I used up the old sand, with a bag and a half of quickcrete, and some fill dirt at about 60/40 dirt and sand and concrete, to create the base for the slab, along with some concrete blocks.  I set in a couple blocks at the base level, and filled and leveled around them, to form the final base for the new slab.  Since the prior slab had settled and cracked, I did not want the same thing happening with the new one (if possible).  After the compacted base fill dried, it seems quite sturdy, so I think it will last.

Unfortunately I didn't get a pic of the new slab in place, but will grab some more pics when I finish this up.  I found that after placing the filter back, that the pool pump was too high (it also sits on the same slab).  I'm not sure why that happened, but my plan is to print a new stand for the pump, which will have some adjustment if I need to fine tune the height.  My best guess is that when the manifold was replaced years ago, the slab was already off kilter, and therefore the pump too.  It's another kludgy fix, but I don't want to hack up the stand it's on, to remove enough material to fit the pump.   I think the printed stand will be a bit better than the original anyway.  I plan to use PETG, since I don't have any ABS handy.

Update 3/13/2026: Happy Friday the 13th!  Well, as expected I have some leaks to deal with, but fortunately the saddle is working OK, and the pump and filter appears to be as well.  I plan to monitor the saddle over the summer, and if it starts to sag, I will re-print it in ABS or ASA, despite the foul smells.

The leaks I have to deal with now are in the bulkhead fittings between the filter and the Hayward Vari-Flow valve.  The old o-rings in the fittings appeared stretched to the point they did not look worth re-using.  I've purchased two sets of replacement o-rings, with the 2nd being directly from my competent local pool store, but both leaked.  The Hayward part for the o-rings is SX200Z4, and what I was sold was a generic o-ring of the same size, which should be cool.  The stock o-ring dimensions are: ID 2.25", OD 2.5", CS 0.125", and they appear to fit, but as noted, still leak (with a propper coating of silicone grease).  The valve fittings appear to be seated in the bulkhead fittings, and tighten down correctly, so nothing looks to be amiss.  Being at a loss for what to do, I decided to upsize the o-ring to a AS568-331 EPDM o-ring.  The AS568-331 has the same centerline dimension as the stock size o-rings, but has a thicker cross section diameter of 0.210".  Unfortunately, these are hard to find, so I'm getting bent over for a couple o-rings (almost $20 with shipping). so hopefully it works.

Below are some pics I took when I finished up the pool pump re-install and got the filter filled back up with sand.  The new slab just fits the pump and filter (it's 2'x4'), and I'm really happy with how it turned out (which is nice and level, and at the correct height).  But what a pain lol.

I made some riser feet for (what I believe is) a "LUBBYGIM Mini Exercise Bike, Under Desk Bike Pedal Exerciser", which is used by a relative in a wheelchair to help with pysical therapy.  The bike will spin by itself (slowly), so it helps with getting joints moving, even if the strength is not there yet.  The issue for my relative is that the bike is a bit low for using it in a wheelchair, and the thing slips around like a greased pig when it's on tile.  To address both those problems, I designed some riser feet, which also have large pads where I stuck some non-slip grip pads to.  The feet clamp down on the tubular feet of the bike, using three M3x40 SHCS and locknuts (for each foot).  It seems pretty solid now on tile, and the height is much more comfortable (I had to try it out of course).  

 I don't expect that this will be a very popular model, but I hope for those who do need something like this, it will be useful.  Of course this comes with no guarantees, and if you use or make this, it is at your own risk.  But if you are looking for something like it, you can find the models over on MakerWorld.  I included the STEP files, and put a CC license on it, which allows commercial use on it (just requires attribution). 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2318833-excercise-bike-riser-feet#profileId-2532199 

I'm still working on a new design for a boost filter, which is looking good so far, though my first prototype print does have a few errors I need to fix.  I think the design will work OK though, and the 8038 fan fits.  I'm still waiting on an OLED screen with 4 buttons and a couple other parts for the design though.

But since the boost fan is coming together, I thought about making a more universal window exhaust setup (than my doggie door exhaust duct).  The doggie door duct works really well, and has been going strong for a couple years now, but I never released it, since I was waiting to really test a boost fan to go with it.  Both use 2.5" hoses, so they sort'a work together.  The downside of a doggie door vent however is that not everyone has a doggie door, and some are used by actual dogs.  So I started adapting the design to a window and after a failed first attempt, I think this next one may be a winner.  The design utilizes a similar flapper setup to close off the vent when the fan is off (but that part is optional).  The design is intended to be lower profile, so the window can be opened just about 30mm, and there will be some 250mm inserts to fill the gap.  These inserts are in the 1st and 2nd pics, and appear like stairs since they are arrayed next to the larger insert.  The inserts will attach to the vent, and each other, with some additional sizes in 20mm increments, so hopefully most window sizes can be accommodated.  My hope is that a window could be opened just enough to get this in place, some weather sealing tape could be run around the parts which go in the window, and then the window could be secured closed with a slide latch or even just a stick to deter the bad guys.  The whole unit will also be easily removable, so it can be used temorarily while printing and then removed, with only a single wall bracket and one knob that will be needed to take it down or put it back up.

I've also designed a mirrored version, so it can be used on left or right side opening windows, as well as on the bottom of a window that opens vertically.  This is all of course what is intended, and none of this has been tested, but the design seems OK.  

I have one problem though, and that is I don't really need this design myself.  But I can test it, and have a family member who may be able to use it, so I do plan on test printing it - but that will be after I get the boost fan done.

2/2/2026:  This project has become + one more now, since I decided to integrate the booster fan with the duct, as an option.  It actually will probably make more sense than an inline fan in most cases too.  The updated design appears mostly completed, and I have tested several of the electronics holders and the screen parts.  It's always a bit of trial and error to get things to fit just right when dealing with electronics and boards, but getting the screen and buttons to work just right took three tries.  The cool thing is that I now have a working reference design and have modeled the boards I'm using, which will help with future projects.  I still have to tweak the buck converter mount, but it should be a simple fix. 

My next step is to get the automation working in a breadboard setup, and make sure the sensors function.  I'm really hoping I didn't bite off more than I can chew with this though, since I'm gonna lean on ESPHome and help from AI to get started.  It's been a while since I've done much with Arduino or other micros, but I hope it will start coming back as I go.​  So far, I've just loaded up Home Assistant, with the HA-Bambulab integration.  HA seems a bit clunky, but definitely has gotten better since the last time I tried it out.  Still though, I think the UI is still pretty cluttered, with everything on blast by default, especially with the ha-bambulab integration.  I know there are ways to clean it up, but they are also a bit clunky, so for now I just shut off all the stuff on my "Overview" page to clear the noise out.  I probably won't be using HA for anything else though, so won't need to deal with it, aside from getting the filter integration set up. 

2/2/2026:  I spent some more time today on this design, and made a few more optimizations for printability.  The parts appear to slice OK. and there will be minimal supports needed.  The related booster fan design is gonna be the first test of this concept, and if it works as planned, I will then try printing this window blower duct and test it as well.  But between that booster fan and this design, I will need to complete testing on my H2C spares case, so this is 3rd up to bat.  This design should be an easier build though, since there is much more room for the electronics components, which will be semi-modular in the way they install. 

2/12/2026:  This project had to take a pause while I wrap up the H2/P2 Spares Case Update.  That project is gonna be done this week or early next week, so I expect to get back to this one then.

I had to do some work to fix an older 5 port Pentair pool valve which had stopped functioning.  I previously rebuit most of the internals and did multiple tear downs last season, trying to get it working right.  The problem was that it would run for a day or two and then stop.  It had stripped out a few of the small plastic gears which were replaced, and appeared that the base plate for the gears may have needed to been swapped (since it also includes the cam plate, which was worn).  The design was the older type, with acrylic balls which dropped into valve seats, and it seems they, and the valve seats themselves were also worn, but I will get to that in a bit. 

It was decided that the best thing to do for the cost, was to swap the valves with the T-valve retrofit kit (Pentair 230067), which includes a new drive train, base plate, and the 5 replacement flapper valves (along with glue and the other necessary parts).  The swap converts the older style valve, which uses balls, over to the newer flapper style, which is probably more reliable (and definitely smoother operating).  

The pool valve in question, has had a bit of a rough life, with several cracks sealed up using JB weld (some of which had to be ground away to fit the new valves), and had some rough looking valve seats.  The valve had been run for a time without the balls, which I suspect may have caused some of those issues with the worn seats.

The T-valve conversion went OK, however the instructions kind'a suck.  Most of it is pretty obvious, but there are two things which stood out, the first is that they provide a small block (which is a chunk of plexiglass) to serve as a spacer tool used to help install the valves.  I used that tool (according to the instructions), but when I watched videos on how the pros do it, they did not use it (and I think I see why after the glue had set lol).  The tool seemed to create a bit of a less ideal alignment due to the worn valves.  I think if the valve seats were not as worn, it would be less of an issue, so I won't suggest one way or the other on using that "tool" or not, just that it did not work great in this case.  The second issue was that the instructions (as far as I could see) did not mention where to locate the cam plate when installing the gear train for the valves.  I had to watch a video to find out where it went (turns out it is 180° from the hole in the base plate).  It was where I thought it should go based on the indents in the base plate, but it should have been spelled out in the "instructions".  Maybe it's just some secret handshake stuff they don't want their customers to know about :D  The instructions should have included at least one more pic of how the final assembly goes together, but instead they included one which seemed pretty obvious instead.  A side note on that linked video, he installed two washers before the impeller, but my kit only had one (and the original had only one washer).

Prior to installing the valves, I noted that the seats were worn, and mentioned that, but didn't want to press the point (turns out I should have, since it would have saved a bit of work).  When I installed the valves I found that some of them seated with the frames appearing a bit off from where I thought they should go, but since the valve seat is the primary concern I went with what felt right when the valves were "seated".  As I half expected though, the heads did not cycle properly after the swap, and it was clear water was bypassing though some of the failing valve seats.  I decided I would try and repair them with some epoxy putty.  I'm no pool expert, so I expect I didn't pick the best possible stuff, but I used some JB Weld "Water Weld" putty, to repair the valve seats.  The alternative is to replace the whole valve housing, which requires a good deal of excavation and pipe work, and expense for new parts, which is not in the cards right now.

Since the valves were glued in already, using the putty to repair the seats was a bit of a pain (but also somewhat helpful).  I first scuffed things up a bit and cleaned them with alcohol, and then pressed the epoxy putty into the valve seats.  I had to mold the putty to the valve openings with my fingers, but due to the tight spaces, that was a best effort deal.  Some plastic pry tools with thin flat ends helped to get the epoxy pressed in at the back of the valves where my fingers could not really reach.  Once I'd made a sufficient mess of things with the epoxy putty, I put some silicone grease on the valves and pressed them down into the valve seats (which had a bit of epoxy putty on them).  I'm not really recommending this process, but just to be thorough, I have to emphasize that it was important to keep the silicone grease from contaminating the epoxy as I went, so I went though many pairs of rubber gloves as I had to work one valve at a time.  The grease was only applied after the epoxy had been laid down, and used as a release agent on the valve seats, to keep the epoxy from sticking to them during the process.  I did have to press the valves into the putty a couple times, to make sure the epoxy layer was pressed evenly, and was thin enough.  With the valves pressed down I also removed some of the excess epoxy around the valves.  Then I carefully lifted the valves back up, and used some silicone grease on a q-tip to clean any epoxy off the valves themselves, and let things dry that way (with the valves flipped up).  After a day of drying, I gave things a quick check and lightly sanded any areas that felt too much out of place, and retested the valves.  Fortunately the seats appeared fine, and there was no interference with the movement of the valves or the cam.

After that it was just buttoning up the whole valve, with the steel shims, the rod post, the cam (which is opposite the hole in the base plate), the gear train, the all important washer, and then the impeller gear.  It seems to be working well, but time will tell if this repair will last.  I've been surprised with the prior leak fixes using JB Weld on this same valve, which have lasted for years now. 

​Unfortunately I found that one of the pop up heads is now sticky, which had been a preexisting condition, possibly related to running the heads wide open for months while the valve had been free flowing.  That is a small problem though, and the pop-ups are a cheap and easy fix.

2/2/2026:  So far, the fixt has been working, and the heads are cycling, so it was well worth the small cost and time I think.

I've been finishing up work on a design for some H2C inductive hotend modules for my H2S/H2D case, as well as a few updates to the base design.  The updates will include a new gasket, and some snap in latch parts (which will remove the need for four odd sized M3 screws).  I may be adding a P2S option as well, but I don't own that printer, so will need help from the community to see that design though.  The H2C update though is completed, and just needs to be fully test printed (so I can add one more Bambu spares case to my growing stack of spares cases :D

The pics below show some of the latest CAD models for the update, and some test parts I printed to verify the fit and function of the new snap in latch parts, and the H2C inductive hotend holders.  The inductive hotend holders will require one 6x3 cylinder magnet per hotend (though those are also required for the existing H2D/H2S design as well).

11/17/2026:  Progress is still ongoing with this update, but has been slowed down due to another project that has taken longer than expected.  It's still on track though, and I'm planning to add a few new features, which will reduce the BOM further.  The plan / hope is that the case will be buildable using only M3 SHCS screws, of just a few sizes (as well as some magnets for the hotend holders). 

I've had some great help and suggestions from community members as well, which is improving the ideas for the next update.

I expect that my other project will be completed this weekend, and this will be the next thing up to the (build) plate.

11/22/2026:  Small update, but I think it will be the last one before I print this case to test it out.  There are several new patterns I'm considering for the outside of the case, and I think I can get rid of some more of the odd types of screws that are in the BOM currently.  The m3x6 BHCS will no longer be needed for the latches inside the case, which now snap together (pictured).  These new latches will get rolled out to several other designs as well, but it will take some time (there are probably a half dozen or more designs that will need to be updated).  There are some m3 FHCS which will also be removed from the BOM on the H2 Case, so all the screws needed to make the cases will be m3 SHCS (of a few different lengths).

2/2/2026:  This project is still going, but my boost fan / window vent project is taking priority, since I actually need it to get my H2C fully up and running.  As soon as that happens, this will be test printed and hopefully posted if there are no issues.  In the mean time, I have one other thought which I may look at, after discussing some feedback on the current case designs, though I'm not sure if it will make the cut or not.
2/8/2026: The P2S case modules are moving along, thanks to the help of an awesome community member who is assisting to test them.  I thought that the P2S spares were similar to the H2 and X1/P1 spares, but they are just different enough that the parts each had to be modeled to get the holders right.  I feel the P2S holders are over 90% there now, and the feedback has also moved me to make some changes to the existing H2 hotend holders, which will be updated in the upcoming version.  The pics show some of the test versions for the update, and a CAD rendering of the latest design.

2/12/2026:  I feel like the design is done, thanks to some great help and suggestions from a couple folks in the community who assisted me in testing the prototype holders for the P2S and H2 printers.  I also tested them with my spare H2C hotends (the left and right side ones), and I feel that the labels and holders are improved thanks to the feedback.  For the past couple days I've been building the profiles for the parts, and have settled on making one main (common) profile, and a separate profile for each printer (P2S, H2D/S/C).  That is 5 profiles in total.

I have some very generous offers to help check or test some of the finalized parts in the profiles, and will be sending some of the the profiles out to a couple folks for their thoughts, when they are ready.  I also plan to print all the parts for an H2C case, and am currently drying my filament to get ready for that.  The pics below show the "common" profile, which is completed, and some of the prototype parts used for testing. The 1st pic of the profile contains only the parts to build the case, without the printer specific modules.  It is quite a large profile, but really, only 7 plates are necessary, since there are 5 options for the case designs (with 2 types of lids for each).  

2/23/2026:  This took a bit longer than expected, but that is pretty much how it goes with most of my projects.  I ran into a few problems with the hotend label designs which just did not seem right, so I reworked them again and am much happier with how they work.  There was also some last minute changes to the H2S and P2S small modules which hold the cutters and wipers, to improve the access to the cutters.  But all that is now behind me, and I can move on to the next project.  But I'm gonna take a bit of a break to work on a few things which are unrelated to 3D printing, and then will get back to the exhaust duct and fan project.

Here are a few images of the completed case, and a link to MakerWorld, where you can check it out:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2435448-bambu-h2d-s-c-and-p2s-spares-case-v2-0-new#profileId-2671977

I treated myself to an H2C for Christmas, and just got around to setting it up yesterday.  The sucker weighs quite a bit, so I had to remember to "lift with your legs", but really it should be a 2 person lift to be safe.  Setup took a while to run though the calibrations, but so far it has been running pretty well.  I've not run any multicolor prints yet, but having a stash of ready to go nozzles in different sizes is really cool (even for single color).  But one thing I noted is that, despite having a pretty good sized filter, I can still smell the melted plastic when it's running certain materials (like wood PLA).  Based on the pics I've seen, it looks like the fliter either moves up and down, or there may be a door that blocks the bypass air.  I suspect the issue is that air can bypass the filter, due to the design of the exhaust system which has to do double duty as a filtered exhaust and recirculating filter (when running the heater).  I'd like to find a video which shows how the system works in detail (if I do, I will post a link).  It's a shame though, since it has a really big HEPA filter, with carbon, and the printer is much better sealed than the X1C (unfortunately it seems it's not as well sealed in the exhaust path through the filter).

The H2C is just a tad big for my current enclosure, (though I may still cram it in there), so I thought about bringing back an old (stalled) project which I never felt was tested enough to release.  It's an inline booster fan, designed to draw out fumes from the X1C (or any enclosed printer with the right adapter).  It should work with the H2C, and help pull the fumes out the back of the printer, where the exhaust is vented.  It may also help remove any air that slips by during the recirculation filtering too.

I was gonna work up an exhuast adapter, but found a really cool exhaust duct by Clough42 on MakerWorld, which is designed for the H2 series.  He kindly provided the STEP, so I reworked it just a bit to fit my existing hose couplers, and increased the standoff distance by 10mm to clear the poop chute (since it will bend to the left side of the printer).  I'm printing the adapter currently, and will need to order some screws to mount it.  The plan is to run a short hose from the adapter, over to an inline booster fan, and then duct it from there, out an unused doggie door.  Once I get the fume situation settled, at least for a while, I can get down to really using the H2C.  I also plan to (finally) release the remixed duct, along with my booster fan design, the hose couplers, and doggie door adapter, once I've got everyting running and tested (if it works well enough).  I've got a spares case update planned for it, and some other projects, where it should really shine with it's multimaterial capability.

11/17/2026:  The new fan duct works well, but the old booster fan did not unfortunately.  The original booster fan I am using has one 6038 server fan, and it is not enough to move the enough exhaust air from the printer out through 10 feet of 2.5" hose.  It is almost enough though, since there is enough pressure that I can feel it blowing pretty well at the end of the hose, and there is enough pressure to actuate the louvers on my doggie door pass through duct.  But after a couple hours, the printer chamber temp triggers a warning.  I think it just needs a little bit more static pressure.

Fortunately I have all the parts to upgrade the booster to a 2x stacked 6038 fan config.  Unfortunately it's been a bit of a pain to get things working, since my Delta fans seem to have a different wiring setup by default, where the tach sense and pwm lines were swapped around.  Once that was sorted out, things worked though.  But the problem did give me a chance to try out my handy new-ish ZOYI ZT-703S multimeter with an oscilloscope function.  I wanted to confirm the PWM signal line and also check the sense return line from the fans.  It's auto range worked pretty well to home in on the signal, and then I added the frequency and duty cycle functions to the screen, so I could verify the signal from the controller.  It was a lot simpler than I thought it would be, since the UI is not bad.  I can see this being really useful for checking PWM signals or other stuff, short of checking logic signals.  I've actually avoided using this meter, since I tend to just grab my old basic meter 90% of the time (which works for 90% of the stuff I work on). 

With the PWM control working, I was able to test out a few different spacers for the stacked fans, and found that a 15mm spacer seems to work best (a 10mm and 12.5mm were also tried).  I'm currently running off the last few parts and spacers I need to test the stacked fan config with a live print.  Hopefully the double fan booster will be enough to keep the H2C chamber temps low enough during PLA and PETG prints.  If it all works out, and I have some confidence in the design, I may post it on MakerWorld.  However for the money, it would make more sense to buy a pre-built inline booster fan, since I expect the total cost to be around $45, with parts from AliExpress.  The fans make up half the cost though, so if they were obtained cheaply, it would bring down the cost quite a bit.

11/21/2026:  The stacked booster fan seems to be working well, since I can get through a whole print without the chamber temps changing much, and I don't need to run them at full speed even.  I'm thinking that I may take this project in a new direction though, since I would like to automate the fan and get some better speed and other data from it (to tune it better).  So I did some brainstorming with my "AI buddy", and now have a plan to use the Bambu integration for Home Assistant, which will allow the fan to come on when the chamber fan is enabled on the printer.  I'm also planning to add a few extras. 

The existing design did not have room for any extra components (to support the HA integration), and I think it needed a refresh anyway, so I redesigned it from scratch, with the aim of making it easier to build and maintain.  The new design is now mostly completed, but not tested (or printed).  I'm waiting on a few parts to finish up some of the details of the design, which I expect will be here in a week.

11/26/2025:  The booster fan design was almost done when I decided, maybe it would be better to run one fan than two in series.  So I went looking for one that could work, and found two top candidates.  One is a Delta Delta 6038 PFR0612XHE which pulls 3.0A and could replace the two 6038's in my current stacked config.  The only problem is that the reviews say it screams like a banshee (not that any fan I could use would be quiet, but it makes sense being such a small fan that it must be very loud).  The other candidate was an 8038 fan, which I really liked the specs on, since I can downtune it for this application, and have headroom if I decide to really crank it up.  That would the ARCTIC S8038-10K, which runs about $16.  There is a 7k version as well, but it was only a buck less, and I think both will be about the same if I downtune the 10k fan.

So I went back and reworked the design to fit either a single (or a stack) of 6038's or one 8038 fan.  My current plan is to use the 8038, since the stacked 6038's I am currently running are making noises which gives me the feeling they may wear out prematurely in the stacked config.  The updated design also corrected some issues that I only discovered during the rework, and added a few new features, which I hope will make the design a bit nicer to use.  The new design will also feature an ESP32-C3 and a 1" OLED with 4 buttons for making some adjustments.  I decided to drop the external control pod which my current setup uses, since this design will hopefully leverage some automation using Home Assistant (though it will have a manual override function as well).  I'm waiting on the 8038 fan and some other parts, but once they arrive, I should be able to replace my stacked fan setup and test it out - though I also need to print the latest design.

1/28/2026:  Quick update on this one.  It's had a few more updates since the last post, and a completely new mounting system.  The change will require a single M4 brass insert though.  I also found a couple issues with my first prototype prints (as usual), so several small changes were made to fix those.  I'm currently printing it all over again (really the third time due to some impossible to remove supports, which I've corrected).  Once the fixes are checked out, I can then actually build this thing (well I can when I get the sensors and OLED display from AliExpress).

2/2/2026: The good news is that I received the parts from AliExpress and finalized the design for the electronics and component holders (which fit).  The not as good news is that I now have a small box full of prototypes for this design, with almost a whole spool down the drain.  But I "think" the design is finally "done".  The prototypes could probably be used, but I still have to print the final design to make sure it all works.  This one had a bunch of small tweaks here and there, which were intended to help with printability, or fix small errors.  I unfortunately used up the color I intended for this design, since each of the prototype prints were supposed to be the "final design" lol.  In any case it probably won't matter what color it ends up, since it's gonna be tucked away out of sight anyway.  I still need to print it again, so hopefully I will have some progress pics in the next update.

It don't look like much, but I hope the above design (or something similar), will save a few hardware headaches for people building my cases (eventually).  One of the most common criticisms of my cases is that they require too much hardware (in the form of various M3 screws).  While I am of the opinion that hardware has a place in 3D printed designs, I think this is one area where I could improve things.  The above is a pic of a test sample which I am investigating, to see if it will work as well as using a screw to secure the part.  If it works, I may drop the screw requirement for this part and it's opposite latch cleat on the case, in favor of a clip in design.  It's still early though, and I may need to make more changes to the design to insure there is no creep of the parts when the latch pressure is applied, but if I can get it to work, it will save using two of the more oddball M3 screws (per latch), which have been required to build the cases.

If these clip in latch inserts work out, they will probably be first seen in a fully revamped 8x watch case, which I've been working on.  That 8x watch case is similar to an earlier prototype which I had completed (though never published), and will have all the latest updates which have already been applied to my other cases, which can be found at the links below).

Gridfinity Cases (including watch cases)
https://makerworld.com/en/collections/844576-my-gridfinity-stuff

3D Printer Cases (Generic and Bambu specific cases)
https://makerworld.com/en/collections/844579-bambu-spare-parts-cases

12/13/2025:  I got stuck with a side quest for the past week, due to some events outside of my control.  I'm still wrapping that other projects up, but will hopefully get back to this one.  I don't expect it will be done before Christmas though (the holidays are busy and stressful enough, without extra deadlines to chase). 

2/8/2026:  I realized I didn't update this, but I wanted to mention that these work.  I'm planning to add them to the next update for the H2 spares case (which will also become a P2 spares case as well).  These snap in latch parts will let me remove several oddball screws from the BOM on that case, and they will be rolled out to the other similar cases as they get their own updates later.

I saw this design today, which is a label that can be attached to a jumper cable, and acts as a reminder of the order of connection and disconnection.  I don't use jumpers that often, but everyone in my family has a pair in their car, so it's handy to have something that may help with setting them up.  The design is simple, and although I really like the original, the raised text is something I try to avoid on parts, since it can get knocked off with any abuse.  Raised text also does not tend to look as clean as inlayed text does.  Since I wanted to make some of the labels to give out to family members who will be in town soon, I made my own version (pictured), which has inlayed text and some other changes.  I don't plan to release my version for a while at least (if I do it will probably a month or two).  I suggested these same changes to the original designer, so maybe their design will be updated with the same changes, which I think will make them more durable.

I think I first need to soften a bit of what I said in the last post regarding my dislike of Printables (for technical reasons), since the community over there is awesome.  Somebody suggested that the 20bin Gridfinity case could maybe use a diet, and my initial reaction was that it would be a lot of work for a little gain (it is lol).  But after considering it, and looking closer at the model (which I have not done in almost a year), I agree, it needs a diet.  I did something similar with the 16 Bin Gridfinity case over a year ago, and it turned out well. 

I was already gonna revisit the 20 bin design anyway, since the same person mentioned they experienced a crack where the latch connects to the case, which has been a rare problem on the older case designs.  That problem had been resolved with some longer latch parts (I thought), but I now have a better fix for that problem, which has been successfully used on several similar case designs.  The update will include the fix, along with possibly some other goodies.

So I got to work on the 20 bin case update, and I spent several hours yesterday and today on an almost ground up rework of the design, having trimmed a substantial amount of material from it.  As sometimes happens though, just when I thought I was done, I noticed something that has really thrown a monkey in the wrench.  I'll have to rework the gasket design again, and possibly a bit more, which will likely involve several more hours of work.  But I'm planning to fix it, just not today.  

I'm not really sure yet how much material and time this update will save for folks printing it, but I expect it will save a few plastic trees in the long run.  I also like that it has a bit of a compact look.  I'm planning to release these with a 6U, 9U, 12U and 15U deep base, with an optional gasket.  I don't know yet if these will get a funky design or pattern like the "Generic Printer Spare Parts Case", but if things go smoothly (unlikely lol), that is a possibility.

10/28/2025:  I spent another hour or so on this design, and I think the gasket problem should be sorted out.  I'm starting a test print of a 6U case with the gasket option, to test things out.

10/29/2025:  Just a bit of progress to note on the prototype case design.  The lid has been printed, and I'm printing a base now.  In comparison to the current design, the update should trim it down by a good bit (though I have not checked how much yet).  I think I will end up needing to print two prototype cases though, since I will also need to test the version without a gasket.  In the pics below, the new lid is placed on top of the current version case (with the lid set so it aligns with the top right edge of the current case design).

10/31/2025: I've got the prototypes printed, and one is fully assembled (aside from the TPU gasket).  The 2nd prototype is a 9U version, without a gasket, and it has yet to be assembled.  So far things look good for this update.  I recently saw a video by Maker's Muse, where he was testing several flexible filaments to make wheels for his battle bots.  One of them looked really interesting, as a possible material I could use for a gasket with these cases.  I'm checking with the company that makes the filament, to see if I can get a small sample to test with, which would allow me to make one or two gaskets.  The TPU Air is much more flexible and compressible than normal TPU, so I expect it could work well, though I may need to modify the gasket design slightly for it.  If I can get a sample, and it tests well compared to normal TPU for the gasket, I will likely provide a gasket design for the case that can be used with the compressible TPU Air, and another gasket design that would work with standard TPU.  I will post some progress pics of the prototype cases soon. 

11/3/2025:  The prototypes are completed and based on them, I made some very small changes to the final design, including moving the handle on the larger cases, so it balances better.  The gasket works well, though I have not dunk tested it yet - but I don't expect it to be "water proof" anyway.  I've not heard back from Siraya Tech about a small sample of the TPU Air, so I don't expect to modify the gasket for that material (as an option), and will likely release the design with the "standard" TPU gasket design.  Below are some pics of the prototypes.  They are a 6U and 9U version of the case (there will also be a 12U and 15U version included in the profile).  I now need to build up the rest of the 3mf profile, with the other sizes of cases. 

11/5/2025:  I heard back from Siraya Tech, and they offered some very helpful info regarding the gasket material.  It seems the foaming TPU Air is not as good a choice for gaskets, compared to other materials (due to chemical resistance and sealing capability).  They suggested standard TPU or PEBA as a good option, which I may try in the future if I get the opportunity.  Based on the Maker's Muse video, I expect PEBA would work better than TPU.  For now, I think I'm gonna stick with the plan, and with TPU 95A, which also means I don't need to tweak the gasket design further.  I'm still working through the 3mf profile, which will be rather large due to all the options, and I hope to have things ready this weekend.  I also need to do a dunk test of the case which has the gasket, though I don't expect it to do better than my other similar cases with the same gasket type (that is, it will be water resistant, but not water proof).

The 3mf profile is about done now, so I just need to work on updating the description and other things before it's posted.  This update will be posted to MakerWorld, but I plan to leave the prior version on Printables a while, for folks who may need spares for that design.

11/8/2025:  I just uploaded the new design to MakerWorld. The updated design is slimmer, and trims about 14% off the material requirement for a 6U tall case, compared with the v2.3 case. You can find it at the link below:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1972161-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-bin-ver3-0#profileId-2120575

I used to upload most designs to Printables first, and then import them over to MakerWorld, but for some reason I stopped doing that a while back.  I went to upload a design to Printables today, and the reason for the change came roaring back into my memory.  There is a very arbitrary spam filter on Printables, which makes everything a huge pain when it triggers (the red text at the bottom of the image).  The description I'm trying to write (starting from scratch for the 2nd time), was about 90% saved as a draft seemingly without an issue, but then after I added the last bit (which is just a generic footer I add to all my designs there), it coughed up a furball and won't let me save it.  So I yanked out the bottom quarter of the description - and that didn't work, so I ripped out some more (nope), and now I am well past the point where it had been saving correctly previously, and it still says "spam".  I've wasted over an hour with this BS getting nowhere, so finally emailed them to ask what is going on?  There is not a curse word in sight (aside from "Bambu" lol).  I had a link to MakerWorld for a model which I referenced, which has some parts that are compatible - but even removing that also did not satisfy the spam filter.  This was my 2nd attempt to get the description added, and I think I'm gonna cut bait and set it aside for the day.  But I will try to do it over tomorrow - one more time.  If it fails again, then it was not to be, and will just put it on MakerWorld, where their spam filter is not as unpredictable.

10/10/2025: Well I have no idea what is going on with their crazy spam filter, it choked on the following text:

"Although this model is not remixable due to the license, I will upload some remixable models for the large and smaller insert modules (which install in the base of the case) as a separate design, and will link those here when they are available."

When I removed that section, the draft description saved, but when I put it back it choked with the "spam" warning.  At least I know they are not blocking the makerworld links or "bambu", but it's still damn frustrating trying to use the site.  I have a suspicion that their "spam" warning may actually be a max character warning which is poorly worded, since the description is rather long, with a lot of images to help with assembling the case.  But now that the description passes the "spam" check, I don't feel like testing that out further.

However, once the "spam" hurdle was jumped, I then found that my 3mf profile, which I had to generate from scratch in Orca, seems to not work when I download it from Printables (see pic).  The original works just fine though.  I've resaved the file several times, rechecked the original, and re-uploaded it, but every time it will not open with the "Loading of model file failed" error.  This was after completely re-working the 3mf profile from scratch in Orca (I just imported the geometry only from the original Bambu Studio 3mf).  I've spent several hours trying to get this design uploaded, and verifying the profile after downloading, but with zero success.  I'm setting this one aside again for a couple days.

10/11/2025:  Success! After another round of re-uploading and verifying, I can see that the 3mf profile made it through the process without getting corrupted.  You can find it at the link below:
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https://makerworld.com/en/models/1879290-printer-took-kit-v1-0#profileId-2012201

https://www.printables.com/model/1438284-printer-took-kit-v10