I have been looking for cool "card kits" to throw in as gifts for friends and family at Christmas, and found several really cool models on Printables.  I've printed a few different card kits already, as well as a remix of Dummy 13, which is an excellent model.  The Dummy 13 model is a complex model, but there is a very handy video, that shows how to assemble it.

I specifically built the Dummy 13 (Beta) On Runners (Easier to print) models and the DUMMY 13 goes to COMIC CON - Deadpool remix by Mici (unfortunately no card kit version of the remix).  I've never actually seen the Deadpool movies, but the figure is gonna be for a coworker.  To test the model though, I decided to make one of the figures.  Building one would also helm me to explain how to assemble the figure to the person receiving it (but I'm keeping the one I built, since it's also very cool).  There was only one real tricky part in assembling the Dummy 13 model, which is that there are two very similar frame parts, which go into the torso and pelvis of the Dummy 13 model.  The part that goes into the pelvis is the slightly shorter one.  Other than that, the Dummy 13 model, and the remixed parts all went together perfectly and the figure is extremely poseable.  I made a minor remix of a weapons pack for the Dummy 13 model, which is posted here. 

I'm also working on an astronaut mod for Dummy 13, which will be posted in the next week (but here is a preview):

I'm planning to print several other "card kits" as gifts as well.  These are some of the best I have found so far:

A remix of the Catapult Card.  I'm going to print this one with thicker parts.
Gingerbread man Kit Card (no makes yet, but I plan to post one when I make it)
Gingerbread House Kit Card
​Snowflake TIE Fighter Kit Card Ornament (pictured)
Star Wars X-Wing Snowflake Decoration (Larger stabilized version) (pictured)
​At-at kit card
Star Wars B1 Battle Droid 2.0 Kit Card
Flexi Gingerbread Darth Vader (not a card kit, but I may "cardify" it)
And again the awesome card kit remix of Dummy 13

Below are some pics of the kit cards I printed so far (and assembled).  As I print more, I will post additional pics.

See update below - I would not recommend these.

I recently had to remove the stock hot end (again) from my X1C to try and clear a nozzle issue which I think was causing poor quality prints (that is still up in the air), and while I was at it I broke the thermistor wires (oops, but that is on me).  The thermistor wires on these things are super fragile, and even when they don't just fall apart, the wires can be pulled out of the connector very easily.  That is just to say, be careful and maybe grab some spares.

But my fat fingers breaking thermistor wires is not what this post is about, it's about the after market Bambu Hot Ends.  There are two versions of these, which I am aware of, and both have their purported pluses and minuses.  I bought the "2.0" version, which has a more robust connection between the heat tube and the heat sink.  The link by the way is for reference, they are available for around 10 bucks from China.  The V2 probably is the one to get, since bent heat tubes can happen.  However the one caution with the V2.0 hotend (which I have read about), is to evenly tighten the screws on the metal mount that attaches to the heat sink.  That will avoid having the hot end tilt to one side due to uneven tightening of the screws.

I set up my V2.0 hot end, and tightened down a new nozzle in it, so I was interested to see what it would do.  What I got was a bunch of boogers.  I cleaned the nozzle several times, and thought maybe the wiper was not doing as good a job on the non OEM nozzle.  But after a couple prints had blobs deposited in various locations thru the printing, I pulled the V2.0 hotend off to check it.  What I found was a classic problem with 3D printing nozzles - that is failure to hot tighten the nozzle.  I had torqued the new nozzle down pretty well when I installed it, but I got just a smidge extra from turning from it when it was at 250°C (after cleaning the plastic off).  I should have expected that to happen (it was in the back of my mind since I started to see blobs), since I would never try installing a normal nozzle without hot tightening it.  And yep, the aftermarket hotends are more like a normal nozzle, so that's also on me.  It may also be however, that my aftermarket nozzle or hot end may be faulty in some way, so I will update if hot tightening helped much.

But it does lead me to think that these aftermarket nozzles are a niche item, and so I would not recommend anyone who is not needing whatever extra edge they provide, since they also come with downsides.  If you run a print farm and burn through nozzles, or run some exotic material that may work better with the aftermarket nozzles, sure, go for it (but you also probably have a ton more experience points that I do anyway).  But for a person who does printing casually, and maybe just wants a more trouble free experience, I'd say stick with the stock hot ends.  The Bambu OEM hotends are reasonably priced, and well made (and if you don't run abrasive materials they are gonna be more hassle free).  The stock nozzles by the way are pressed into the heat block, so they should not leak unless they are faulty (which seems pretty rare based on my casual monitoring of reddit).  In any case, hot tighten the suckers if you use these aftermarket hotends, it can save some failed prints - and frustration.

Update 11/17/2023 - After hot tightening the nozzle, I was able to get four decent short prints out of it, and then started to see some defects.  I pulled the nozzle off to inspect it, and surprise... it is still leaking.  I'm done with these aftermarket nozzles at this point, and it's gonna be tossed in a box never to be used again (or the trash), once I remove the parts.  It was a waste of 10 bucks, and yeah maybe it's defective, or maybe I missed something, but if it's a crapshoot, I think I'd still rather pay the extra few bucks and get the OEM, which has a pretty much leakproof pressed in nozzle.  There may be some trick to getting these torqued enough not to leak, but then its back to the same problems (and worse) as the old school V6 and MK8 style nozzles, which are actually much more trouble free than the tiny nozzles which this knock off uses.

I put the old OEM 0.4mm Bambu nozzle back on, which is what my printer shipped with.  I checked the wear closely under a microscope and it's looking good.  This is the same nozzle which started the fun since it was poorly printing, but I'm gonna give it another shot before I swap it out.  With the stock nozzle back on, the k values have dropped just a tad which is interesting as well (though the aftermarket nozzle was leaking so that probably accounts for why they dropped when moving back to the OEM).  The OEM 0.4mm nozzle I am running now, has had a cold pull done on it already, and I will do it again once it's purged out.

It's been busy this past week, so I have gotten behind again on projects, but I'm gonna try and get the Gridfinity Box For Stuff printed.  My prototype will have an updated label design, which will not require supports.  There is also gonna be an optional gasket version which will use a printed TPU gasket.  This gasket version may be released later though, depending on how things go with the prototype, since the Gridfinity version requires that the mating surfaces are at an angle (and I don't know how well the gasket will fit). 

Update 11/16/2023 - I've printed this 1.5 times and have pretty much garbage to show for it.  I switched out the nozzle for an aftermarket V2.0 hotend and am testing that out, before I try it again.  I'm also switching to PLA, which I think may be a bit more forgiving, since part of the issue is that I need a clean groove for the gasket in order to test the fit.  This is gonna be a bit longer to post.

I decided to post the basic storage box, which, after 82 seconds of thought, was named "Box For Stuff".  And since (as far as anyone knows), it's the first version, and certainly the first version posted, I designated it Version 1.0.  In reality it is probably version 103 or something like that, or "7J" by my oddball system.  The basic box has none of the cool features of the Bambu Spares Box, or the Gridfinity Box (which I'm testing now).  It also lacks a gasket, which in my testing may not actually make it waterproof anyway, but is still better than nothing.  But those other versions will get posted as remixes.  For now, if you just want a box for stuff, you can find it over at Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/630027-box-for-stuff-bfs-v10

Update 11/10/2023: I've tested another way to add the label, which seems much more efficient, since it does not require supports, and seems just as robust.  Once I add it to the basic design, I will update the other designs I'm working on, and then post those with the update.  The Gridfinity version of this box, which has the new label design, is being printed now (to test), and the Bambu Spares Box is also waiting to be posted (I just need the time to update that design as well with the new label).  A version of the spares box with s TPU seal is also pending, and will have the updated label design going forward.

The DK Riser is finally posted, with some updates which were added at the last minute to address a couple minor issues.  You can find the models (along with a .3mf from OrcaSlicer) at the links below:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/56211

https://www.printables.com/model/635010-dk-riser-remix-no-vents-with-a-front-switch

I may add a build guide for this later, but for now the list of parts for the project are below.  The amazon affiliate links are just suggestions, but they should help to find the parts which fit this model, even if they are sourced elsewhere (*cough* AliExpress *cough*)
​

1. Qty 1 - rocker switch (non-prewired version also works).  I used a similar switch I had already. The hole for the switch is 12.9x18.4mm. 
2. Qty 1 - DC input jack (other sizes will also work, but may need to be drilled out)
3. Qty 1 - Wire, I used 20 AWG "zip" wire (which I had around), similar to this.
4. Qty 1 - COB LED strip.  There are many options for these, but this is what I used.  I put a 5.5x2.1mm DC male connector on the end, so I can use the RF controller (which works great).
5. Qty 4 - M3x20mm SHCS (this assortment from Amazon has all the M3 hardware needed)
6. Heat shrink tubing for the wire connections.  The smallest of these Heat Shrinkable Solder Seal Connectors may also work (but I used regular heat shrink in this case, which is more compact).
7. Optional Qty 1 - Fuse Holder The non-wired version will be easier to work with.  The pre-wired versions make it very hard to remove or install the nut.  And I had one where the wire fell off, so if I buy them again I will just get the non wired version.  If using the fuse holder, it's important to get a fuse which is sized correctly for the load.
8. Optional Qty 4 - 6x3mm cylinder magnets (if using the AMS tool)
9. Optional - the back has a holder for best tool for the Bambu printers with an AMS. 
10. Optional - I used a 0.47" Brother P-Touch label to notate the voltage for the LED's (so the wrong power supply is not accidentally connected to them).

I recently had a clog in my X1C, and during the troubleshooting, I removed a bowden guide which I printed to help the tube make a more graceful bend into the effector.  However that part seemed to be creating a problem with filament getting stuck, and removing it helped.  The root of the problem though is not the guide, its that the X1C needs a Bowden guide in the first place.  The trouble is due to a very minimal clearance between the top glass cover and the effector, which results in a tight bend as the Bowden tube goes into the extruder.  When I went looking for risers, I found one that looks pretty amazing, it's called the DK Riser, and has some really good design work that went into it.  I was gonna print it, but realized that I don't want my printer to have any openings, even if they have cool TPU seals.  So I decided to remix that design a bit, to close the holes off.  I also added a power switch for the lights, and a DC input jack on the back.  When I thought I was done, I decided to increase the height just a bit more as well, so added 12mm to the thickness of the riser, which will give the Bowden tube even more clearance to move around and hopefully not hit the glass.  I need to test and print this of course, so it's gonna be a while before this gets posted.

Update 10/28/2023: I think the design for the DK Riser Remix is completed, and am now printing the prototype.  Even though this remix will be a very bare bones riser (without any vents), compared to the original, I decided to spice it up a bit with a few extra features, including the following:

1. A switch on the front, with a wire channel and covers, so there is no exposed wiring.
2. Customizable label plate.
3. Holder for the best tool for the Bambu printers with an AMS. 
4. A slide in frame to allow using a Brother P-Touch label to notate the voltage for the LED's (so the wrong power supply is not accidentally connected to them).  The frame just covers the edges of the label and makes it look a bit nicer. 
5. There is also a DC input jack on the back, so there will be no wires hanging off the riser.

Update 10/31/2023: The design is pretty much done, I just need to install the LED's, which will be here tomorrow.  I went with some USB powered LED's, which I hope is not a mistake, but if they are a problem, I will figure out some other use for them.

This prototype allowed me to update the design with some improvements related to installing the wiring.  The holes were a bit too small so while I struggle to install them, the design which will be uploaded will have much more clearance.  Other than that, its pretty much the same.  I'm really surprised how well TPU prints on the X1C, though getting it off (the cold sheet) is difficult.  I used the liquid bed "glue" as a release agent before each TPU print, and then dabbed on a bit of IPA to help remove the TPU parts, which helped.

Update 11/1/2023: The prototype is completed and works.  I had to make some on the fly modifications to one of the covers, but that will be fixed in the finalized design which gets posted.  My prototype also had less space for wiring and running the wires, than the final design has, but even so, I was able to get it wired up without too much of a problem.  The USB LED's work great, and I can dim them using the remote, which also has a timer feature to set them to turn off after 4 hours.  The switch on the front can be shut off which does not seem to change the last state of the LED's.  So if I set the LED's to 50% brightness and shut off the front switch (which is connected to the LED strip), the LED's will come back on at 50% if I turn the switch back on.  I may check the power draw of the controller when the LED's are off vs when they are on to see how much standby power it consumes.  Overall though, I really like it, and especially like that the bowden tube has much more clearance to run free now, so I don't need to use any guides or worry about feeding issues due to the sharp bend.  The lights are also a nice upgrade.

Update 11/2/2023: Just got everything done and took a few more pics.  There is one minor change I may add before I upload it, though it's not a huge deal either way. 

The Bambu X1C has been pretty solid, but today it was having a fit.  It would not back out the filament (unload) from the AMS, and kept dropping an error about it.  I went through the basics, and after some investigation realized it had to be in the extruder.  Sure enough, some slightly wet PLA had broken (my bad), and there was a small piece of PLA stuck right over the extruder sensor, which is above the gears.  I'm not sure that's the end of the story though, but more on that later.  

The clog was a blessing in disguise though, since I had to remove the hot end to pull the extruder, I found noticed immediately that the thermistor wire was broken.  It really just fell apart, so was an easy thing to notice.  What is really strange though, is that there had been no thermistor errors, so there must have been a good mechanical connection.  In any case I swapped it, and in the process, learned how much I hate tiny connectors.  I also found that for some reason, known only to Bambu, they put some adhesive on the stepper connector, which must be unplugged to remove the stepper.  I was able to carefully pick it off, but it's sort'a annoying, I really hope that is not there due to some issue, and I will later regret having to do that, but it's the only way to get the extruder off to check it.  

When I got the extruder apart, I used a toothpick to clean out the gears, which had some rusty looking crud on them.  I also cleaned, and then added a very very tiny (like watchmaker tiny) drop of oil to the bearings and on the shafts in the extruder.  Getting it all back together was pretty easy, aside from the micro connectors which I can hardly see, and the hot end being very stubborn about seating where I could get the screws to slide in.  It is all back together though, and printing part of   

​
While I had a packet of thermal paste open, I decided to set up a new high flow knockoff hot end from AliExpress, which I picked up for about $10.  It includes everything but the fan, and I also bought a couple high-flow nozzles at the same time.  I'm not planning to use this right now though, since my goal was just to get the machine back up and running with as few variables changed as possible (and the only variable changed was the thermistor in this case).  The AliExpres hotend does look very nicely made though, and I have no doubt it would work, and may outperform the stock even - though with some drawbacks if using abrasives or filled materials (since it seems likely the third party high flow nozzles will clog easier).  Something I also noticed with the AliExpress spare hotend socks, is that they do not have the same profile as the stock Bambu socks.  That means the knock off socks will not work with my spares case, which is fine since I only have the one and probably will not buy any more.

And finally (maybe) after tearing it down and putting it all back, it had another error when trying to pull the filament back.  It's only happened on the #2 spool so far, and may be due to the bend right at the hot end.  I was able to clear the latest error by purging the hot end and then unloading/loading/unloading. I already removed a bowden guide, which had been on the printer from almost day one, but it did seem to be related to the filament loading/unloading issue most recently.  It remains to be seen if the other AMS spools will have this problem, or if maybe it's something else that has worn down and needs to be replaced.  I hope that's the end of the issues for a while, but the next steps will be to replace the bowden to the hot end, and maybe print a riser for the glass top to give more clearance there for the tube to bend.  I think the sharp bend in the bowden is the cause of some of these loading problems. 

Updating this post at the top (on 11/12/2023), since this model is finally posted.  If you just want to go download it, the models can be found at the links below:
​
https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636​
https://www.printables.com/model/626897-bambu-labs-x1c-spare-parts-case-box-for-stuff

There is also a build guide here.

After making the draw latches for the recirculating filter design, I thought that it would be cool to use them for a case.  And when I saw the awesome Bambu printer accessory cases from Jorge_Rui and Mr. Sullivan on Printables, the idea clicked to try a remix of one of those designs, with the case.  I'm going to use the design from Mr. Sullivan since it has some improvements which hold the parts in place, is a bit more space efficient, and the STEP files were helpfully provided (which makes remixing much easier).  I ran some test prints to check the fit of the Bambu spare parts with the design from Mr. Sullivan, and the hot ends fit very well, as do the microSD cards.  I did not test the cutters though I plan to later.  I may modify the nozzle wiper holders a bit to narrow them, and I'm considering how to lay everything out.  I have however tested the key parts of the case including the hinges and they function well.

There is also a Gridfinity version of the case in the works, which will hold 15 units (9 Gridfinity "units" high or 9x7mm).

Both the cases will be completed after the filter design is posted, since the cases will take some time to print and test.  But at least I don't need to wait on parts from China to get them done.

Update 9/29/2023: I've been working on and off to optimize the design for the various holders for the parts, using the designs from Mr. Sullivan on Printables, as a base to build from.  I slightly modified his design for the hotend holders with longer tabs, and some larger pockets to help remove the hot ends.  It was pretty simple as the original designs fit the hot ends perfectly.  For the wiper and cutter holders, I wanted to have a way to hold them in positively, so I designed holders for those parts from scratch.  To do that, I had to model the wiper, but since the cutter is such a simple design it did not require modeling.  What I ended up with were designs that hold the parts securely, but will release the parts with a push of a lever.  The levers seem robust enough.  But it's gotta be a balance between strength and usability, so there is always the possibility they could break in time.  To hopefully mitigate that problem, the various holders will be modular, and install in the case using M3x20mm screws.  That way, should any one tab break, only the holder (actually the group of holders) will need to be replaced, and not the entire case lid or base. 

I spent way too long with these simple designs, and probably printed a dozen iterations of the wiper and cutter holder prototypes, before I had a design that I could be happy with.  Now I just need to integrate them into the case design, and print those parts to test.

Update 9/30/2023: I forgot to model a holder for the liquid glue (sorry no glue stick holder). Now all the holders for the case are completed, and I'm just finalizing the design for the doors.  I wanted to have some sort of latching mechanism, and in the past I have used pen springs, which are ideal.  However many folks don't have those laying around, so I modeled some printed springs, but I'm trying to tune the spring force so the latches will be easy to open, but pop closed.  The latches have been tested, and seem to work well enough.

I'm currently running the top of the toolbox first (the part which will have the logo and compartments).  I had to print the top using no prime tower, mouse ears only and manual supports along the front where there are some unsupported overhangs,  Ideally the model would have no supports.  However due to the way the draw latches work, some supports are required.  There are also some supports in the area of the case label frame, which I think are unavoidable.  I expect that I can print this in 5 almost full plates and 2 multicolor plates (split the multicolor prints to minimize the waste).  

Update 10/4/2023: It often happens that I will print a design which I "think" is done, only to find out that I missed adding a hole somewhere, or a dimension was slightly off.  It's always the last 10% of a design which can take the longest to get done, but I think this one is there now.  There is still a requirement to use supports on one part, but that's part of the territory with 3D printing I guess. 

There are a number of optimizations which have touched on almost every part of the design, from the door springs to the wiper holders.  It's a good thing I enjoy doing this as a hobby, or it would feel like work, lol.  Below are some renders of the final design.  My prototype tool box however will not look as good.  It has many final parts, and some which I don't plan to reprint, since the changes are minor.  I have very high confidence in the final design though, since I've previously tested the changes with smaller sections of the model (or the changes were just an adjustment of a dimension... or a hole).  My prototype on the other hand, has holes drilled in it, and some other less than perfect aspects, but it's still functional and will be 95% as good as the final design.  I'm just not gonna waste the filament to print the final design, and will live with the imperfections in my tool case.  They will remind me of what a pain in the butt it was to make :D.

And don't worry glue stick lovers, two of the snack sized sticks will fit in one of the smaller compartments.   

This will get posted soon, I just need to find the time to write up a BOM and assembly instructions.

Update 10/5/2023:
I took some pics of my (far less than perfect) prototype case, this is about as good as it can possibly look :D

The case will be released without any "Bambu Labs" or "X1 Carbon" stuff on it, (edit) but I need to check if adding those logos to user created models is acceptable to Bambu or not (though I know there are tons of models that use it). In any case, it's gonna take some time to get it posted, as I need to export all the files and write it up.  

Update 10/6/2023: Well, I had one more idea which will help with printability.  The modification is all designed and ready, but I need to test print it, and then will re-print the top, to verify it all works.  The upside is that there should be fewer supports needed (just one area will need them).

Update 10/9/2023: The design is as done as it ever will be, and the modification has been tested.  The top will still need supports, but only in one very small area (see the first pic below).  It will now require a couple additional M3x10 screws to mount the latch hangers, but the profile is much cleaner on those parts, since they can be printed in a proper orientation.  

I emailed Bambu about their logo policy on the 7th, to ask if they are OK with putting the Bambu logo on this case, however I have not heard back yet (understandable since it's probably not a common question).  I will give them a week, and if they don't reply, then I will just release it without the logos and markings.  I will still keep an eye out for a response though, and will respectfully ask that folks don't remix the logo on this, since I have put a lot of work into this, and would like to do that if possible (only if it's OK with Bambu).  I know that there are tons of designs out there with the Bambu logos, but I don't plan to add it to this without knowing they are OK with it.  I recall seeing a very reasonable logo policy at some point (possibly during the kickstarter), that (as I vaguely recall) probably would have allowed adding the logo to this, but I can no longer find the policy on their website (so don't quote me on that :D).  I'd rather not run afoul of Bambu, or give them a reason to take down the design (as unlikely as that would be), and clarity on their policy would be generally a good thing.

Update 10/12/2023: I emailed Bambu again to ask if they have any policy on using their logo in designs produced by the community and posted to sites like Makerworld and Printables.  I'm gonna give a couple more days to reply, since I really don't want to post the plain models if I can avoid it.  Having the logo helps to define what the box is for, which is a holder of spare parts for a Bambu printer.  I have some other ideas for designs related to Bambu printers as well, so knowing if they are OK with slapping their logo on community designs, is something I'd like to know.  

Update 10/19/2023: Very small update, but after no reply to my emails, I asked on Reddit (in case another maker had some insight, or possibly the Mods (who are Bambu employees), would possibly respond.  There was no leads there unfortunately, but it was suggested to open a case with them, so I have done that.  Depending on what their response is regarding using their logo on freely shared, user created models (in good taste of course), I will either post this without the logos or post it with the logos (which would be much cooler).  I should know something in 3-4 days hopefully.

Update 10/22/2023: Bambu support got back and gave me the green light to use the logo on this design, so I will be uploading it later this week in all it's logo adorned glory!  

Update 10/26/2023: I finally finished the build guide, and am working on publishing the parts on Printables and Makerworld.  I will publish to Printables first and then import it over to Makerworld, since it's much simpler that way. 

Update 11/11/2023: Well I guess I lied, it hasn't been posted yet because I've been working on some improvements.  The first is a gasket option, and the second will allow printing the whole model without supports.  Part of the second improvement is a new label design, which I'm just waiting for my printed to get freed up to test.  The gasket design is already tested and will be optional, since it requires being able to print TPU.  Once the new label design is tested and I'm happy with it, I'm gonna just say "no more changes", and work to get it read to post.

Update 11/12/2023: FINALLY!  It's published, you can find it here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636​
https://www.printables.com/model/626897-bambu-labs-x1c-spare-parts-case-box-for-stuff
The build guide is also updated.
​

I received a few parts from AliExpress, which I need to complete the Marvin the Microparticle Machine Filter, and also the booster fan for the Bambu X1C.  However, I did not get the blowers for the Marvin project yet (tracking shows they should be here any day now).

The booster fan parts however are mostly accounted for, and I may have some extras of what I need lying around to test that project (now I just need to print it :D).

I also received some self adhesive gasket material, which I used to help seal around the door on the X1C.  It's not close to a perfect solution, and I know there are better ways to do this, but for now I think this will be OK.  I had to stick it on with it hanging about half way over the edge of the glass, but least I can no longer see light through the edges of the door.  Installation was a bit more difficult though, since it appears some lube must have wiped against the door sill at the bottom of the printer, so I had to clean that off before the stuff would stick.  The seal is also not likely necessary since there are many other larger holes in the printer which need to be addressed, but I plan to work on that one problem at a time.

Update 9/21/2023: The fans finally arrived, and even better, they fit the design, so no major changes will be needed.  I'm going to install everything and test it, before I can release "Marvin the Microparticle Machine" on Printables.

Until I can get the parts to directly duct the X1C outside, I decided to temporarily evict my CR10S Pro from it's comfortable (vented and filtered) enclosure and replace it with the X1C.  That will take care of the annoying odors from printing, but it also required moving the AMS.  My enclosure is large enough to hold both the X1C and the AMS, but I would not be able to open the AMS. 

The AMS can be located a small distance from the printer (Bambu recommends no more than a 3.5m bowden extension), and the distance is not a problem for my temporary setup (it will be about 1m of bowden tube between the AMS and hub).  However the AMS bowden tube itself is a unique design, and an ordinary tube will not work.  The Bambu AMS bowden tube has an inside diameter of 2.5mm (and a normal 4mm outside diameter), while most bowden tubes are around 2mm for the inside diameter (or less).  A normal Bowden tube will cause too much friction, and the filament may not make it past the transition into a narrower tube as it leaves the AMS. 

Of course there is a solution, which is $9.99 plus $7 shipping...  It's more annoying that I could not think of any other spares to pick up while I was paying shipping anyway, but I need the tube to get the AMS back up. 

Update: The Bambu Bowden tube worked perfectly, and the AMS now sits atop the enclosure (for now).