There is a small update to the Dummy 13 Astronaut kit (single color version), which allows assembly without glue.  The helmet was reworked a bit to allow the visor and "stripe" to snap into place.  I've run multiple tests of the new helmet, and everything seems good, so I updated the model over on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/189444-dummy13-goes-to-the-moon-astronaut-remix-kit-card#profileId-860644

This seemed like a pretty small thing, but it turned out a bit harder than I thought lol.  I've heard that Bambu has changed the type of Allen keys they are sending with the A1 and A1 Mini, since I designed my A1/A1 Mini Spares Case.  The new keys are just plain old hex Keys with no molded plastic handles, so they no longer fit the case. So I decided to just make some quick handles that would fit the case, unfortunately getting the fit just right is not easy.  I've printed a half dozen versions of both sizes (there is a 2mm and 1.5mm key), and have not been super happy with any of them.  They started off easy to assemble by hand, but were too loose.  When I tightened them up, they felt very secure, but were more difficult to assemble.  The problem is, installing the keys in the handles takes a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to gently tap the key into the handle, so it can seat.  They do work though, and the handles seem very secure this way, but it's not the most ideal way to assemble something.  I'm running off what I hope will be the final design now, which I hope will be easier to assemble, but it may still need tools to get the handles installed.  

Update - I ran a couple more iterations and I think this is as good as it gets for now.  They will require a hammer and a flat screwdriver to install the Allen wrenches into the handles though.  I just started them by hand and then used the screwdriver to focus the hammer blows on the wrench with a few taps on each side, working the wrenches into the handles bit by bit.  It's not that hard, but not ideal.  Still they are nice and tight when installed and are otherwise exactly what I was hoping for.  I will post them later this week, and update this post with a link.  I plan to release them as part of the A1/A1 Mini Spares Case, and as a separate design as well.
​
Update 2 - I have a few minutes, so I updated the models on the A1/A1 Mini Spares Case.  You ca find them in the 3mf profile for the case (a1_spares_case_Ver1-6_rev9G.3mf).  I will post them seprately as well later.

I decided to take some of the holders which were made for the H2D Spares Case, and use them for a Gridfinity H2D Spares bin design.  I like the way it turned out, but since I have no use for it, I'm not gonna test print it (but will post it in case somebody else would like to give it a try).  It will require (2) M3X10 SHCS, which are used to hold the cutter and wiper module in the bin.  It will also require either (4) 8x3 cylinder magnets, or an (4) 8x8x8 cube magnets, which are used to hold the hotends (however those magnets are optional). 

You can find the model here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1360047-h2d-gridfinity-spares-bin

I was running off some 2 color lids for my Gridfinity Latching Bins, and had two print failures in a row.  Both of them were clogs inside the extruder, and I think both were related to heat creep.  The reason for that suspicion is that my printer enclosure duct fan had a failed switch (which I have since replaced), but that meant that I ran the prints with no airflow through the enclosure.  The gray filament which clogged is High Speed PLA as well, which I think may be part of the issue (since PLA is the most likely to have heat creep issues being a lower temp material).  The clogs are due to the filament softening inside the extruder, where instead of gripping the filament, the gears smoosh it, and deform it to the point that a bulge forms, which can get stuck.  The first clog I just cleared, but the second time it happened, I decided to swap some components out.  I also found that the hotend was slightly bent, though not so much I'd normally swap it, but in this case I did (to rule it out as the cause).  I also swapped the cutter and gears, since they were looking a bit worn.  

The problem with a clog inside the extruder is that it will not pull out, and will not push in, so the only way to remove it is to remove the hotend or the extruder if that does not work.  The other problem is that a clog like this makes disconnecting the bowen tubes very hard.  So it helps to manually push about 1cm of filament in from the AMS end, which can get just enough slack to open one bowden coupler and clip the filament inside to release the tension in the tube.  From there, the clog may be removed from below the extruder (with the hotend removed), otherwise the extruder will have to come out.  Having a small cordless screwdriver and some hex bits for this is really handy for working on the extruder.  The only part which is a bit sketchy is removing the wires for everything.  The extruder wires originally had some glue on the connector, but even without it, care has to be taken when removing and re-installing the wires, since it is easy to misalign the connectors.  To pull the extruder, the stop screw on the cutter arm needs to be backed out to free the cutter, then all three of the hotend connectors need to be removed, along with the extruder connector (four total).  Then there are 3 screws that need to be removed to free the extruder from the toolhead.

​Once removed, there are a few more screws which hold the cover on.  Once those are removed, the screw which tensions the spring has to be backed off enough to loosen the idler (but note how tight it is before, since it has to be put back the same way).  Then the filament can be pushed through and the clog cut off, and the filament pulled or pushed through the until it's clear.  At that point, the yellow gear can be removed, though it will be tight still, and may require some work to remove.

When I compared the yellow gear to a spare I had, I found that it was a bit worn, so I swapped it out.  The new gear also has a helical tooth pattern between the smaller gear and the idler, which should help with backlash.  These are not very expensive, and will be a wear item, so it is a good idea (especially now) to keep a spare around.  The gear I removed will be kept as the new backup, until I get some more spares, since it is not horribly worn, but it is a bit worn.  Worn extruder gears will cause backlash in the extruder, and poor surface quality with inconsistent retractions - I doubt that was much of a problem with mine though. 

I gave the extruder a good cleaning with alcohol and swabs, and then put a very small drop of oil on each of the bearings and steel rods in the extruder.  Then the gear and hotend were swapped, I also replaced the cutter and re-assembled everything.  I've run another print using the same high speed gray PLA, without a problem (though it was a single color print).  I suspect the problem is solved, and really, I could have probably gotten by with just clearing the clog and cleaning things up, but it was a good time to overhaul things, with it all apart.  The real fix in this case, was likely lowering the temp inside the enclosure to avoid the softening of the filament inside the extruder.  Fixing the enclosure exhaust fan was a bigger job, but allowed me to re-print part of the enclosure back shell, so I could use a new 2.5" hose fitting, and a larger switch for the vent fan.    

It has been some time since I stopped working on the small lidded bins.  Even though the models were mostly done, I still had to spend several hours fixing and updating the models (which somehow got rotated individually by 0.062°).  Then I had to spend another couple hours setting up the profiles and repairing quite a few of the STL's.  That is all done now (with the exception of the 3x3 bins, which will be uploaded later).  This has been a 'uge project, with over 100 models, so I'm trying to get it done (finally).  I just need to print a couple more bins to grab some pics, but I currently have uploaded the 1x1 and 2x2 models and profiles over on MakerWorld:

Gridfinity 1x1 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0
Gridfinity 2x2 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0
Gridfinity 2x3 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0

Still to come are:
Gridfinity 1x2 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0
Gridfinity 1x3 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0
Gridfinity 1x4 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0
Gridfinity 3x3 Bins with Latching Lids v1.0 (these will take longer)

These were a couple quick remixes, which were made to help Voron builders.  They were a collaboration with Steiner-SE over at Printables.  The first is a bunch of DIN clips, which have 50mm and 55mm spacing (and now a 66.5mm version as well).  These clips have other optimizations which were suggested:

https://www.printables.com/model/1267457-stiffer-dinmount-50mm-and-55mm-din-clips-remix

The other remix was just to adjust the hole spacing on an existing Pi mount, to fit the above clips.  The hole spacing was originally 46mm center to center for the DIN clips, and the remix just moves them to 50mm center to center spacing.

https://www.printables.com/model/1267440-rpi-din-clips-mount-40mm-cooling-fan-remix-with-50

This is a quick update to an old design.  The Remix of RyanDam's Cable Management Duct for VoronPrinters is now updated to version 3.0 (rev 1H).  The update adds some new zip tie mounts and improves the strength of the tines a bit further by adding some extra material to them.  The changes are small, but due to the number of ducts, it was a bit of work - but I think the changes are worth it.  I also updated the related models with the same changes.

Thanks to Steiner-SE over at Printables for suggesting the update.

Update 4/18/2025:  Some snap in endcaps were added to the main design (now v3.1).  ​Thanks to Steiner-SE over at Printables for suggesting the update.

Update 4/26/2025:  There are also now some additional lids for the 2x 221-415 WAGO box, which works with the duct system.  

I missed the boat on getting an H2D before the Trump tariffs blow up the price.  The original price was just a bit out of reach, but now it's gonna be a lot further out of reach (and they are also out of stock anyway).  In any case, getting my hands on an H2D ain't happening anytime soon, if ever.  

But as soon as it was released, I opened a support case with MakerWorld to ask if I could either get 3D models of some of the spares they include with the H2D, or possibly if there is a way I could get some of the physical spares.  I explained that my intention was to design a spares case, similar to the A1 and X1/P1 spares cases which I've previously designed.  They told me there were no 3D models available for the spares, but they would send my request up to another department to review.  I asked the same question back when I made the A1 spares case, but they could not help with the spare then, which is understandable as it's an odd and unique request.  Fortunately, when I designed the A1 case, there was a lot of help from the community, and as luck would have it, the same happened with the H2D spare parts. 

While I've been waiting for more news from Bambu regarding the H2D spares kit, I was messaged by an H2D owner who asked if I had plans to modify my other spares cases to work with the H2D spares.  I explained the situation with needing dimensions for the spares, since I do not have an H2D myself, and fortunately they were willing and able to help out.  I explained that all I could offer them was thanks and acknowledgement, and they were cool with that.  I'm not gonna mention their handle here, but I will do that once I release the design, and make sure they approve.  But huge thanks to them for the dimensions I was provided (and also for testing prototype holders)!  I now have some working designs for hotend, cutter, wiper and sock holders, which I can use to fill out an H2D spares case. 

There are currently two layouts which I need to choose from.  Both have two modules which will install into the case, and one has a small compartment in addition to the modules.  There are labeled as "C" and "D" below.  I think the "C" option may provide more flexibility for future updates related to laser modules, but I think both should be able to accommodate the 10W module, and the drag knife (in place of the hotends).  I've asked Bambu Support if they know the approximate dimensions of the 10W and 40W laser modules, which will help me decide on a layout.  Both the layouts shown in the first image below will maximize hotend storage.  But regardless of which option is chosen, I plan to offer some modules with compartments instead of hotend modules (as an option), for at least one of the modules shown. 

Once I can pin down the layout, think I can knock this design out pretty quickly.

Update 4/12/2025: I decided to go with the "option D" layout.  The design is almost completed, but I found that the 40w laser module is going to be too big for this case design.  There may be a way to fit the 10w module however, but I do not have a design for that planned.

The pics below show the H2D case prototype, with three modules.  The module on the lower left can either use a hotend holder (which holds 6 pairs), or a compartment module.  The small module on the upper left holds cutters and wipers, with a small compartment which can hold other spares.

Update 4/17/2025:  Thanks to the help of a kind user over at MakerWorld, who tested the models with his H2D spares (and also provided details dimensions), I think this is getting close to being done.  Something that was noted however, is that only one magnet is needed to hold the hotends (the design has 2).  After thinking on that, I decided to use one slightly larger magnet, with the option to use either an 8x3 cylinder magnet, or an 8x8x8 cube magnet.  Whichever magnet was not used, could have a label plug installed to cover the hole, and also help to label the hotend slots. 

I'm still working on these labels, to tune them so they will press fit in, but the magnets will require superglue to install.  I don't want to make the magnet holes too tight (for a press fit), since there could be some variation between magnet suppliers, and it's easier to go a bit larger, than having it too tight where the magnets just will not fit.  The pics below show the concept for the label plugs.  I plan to make some labels for all the existing hotend types (0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 0.4 High Flow).  The labels are small however, so the names will be abbreviated to fit.

The case design is now uploaded to MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1331229-bambu-h2d-spare-parts-case-version-1-0#profileId-1369592

Thanks to some helpful feedback, I'm working on a small update to the "wiper module" for my  Bambu X1/P1 Spares Box .  The "wiper module" is the part shown in light blue in the image above.  It is designed to hold five of the wipers for the Bambu X1 or P1 series printers.  The changes include large holes for the small pegs on the base of the wipers, and a more aggressive clip design.  I'm gonna test the changes today, and if it works better, the update will be posted in the next couple days. 


Update 3/19/2025 - The updated wiper module was tested and holds the wipers more securely.  I've updated the 3mf profile and models over on MakerWorld, so you can find them here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/62636-bambu-labs-x1-p1-spare-parts-case-version-3-1

While I was running a prototype print today, to test an update to my Bento Style recirculating filter, I had a jam occur inside the AMS, after some wet PLA snapped as I was unloading the spool.  When there is a broken bit of material inside the AMS, it can be a pain to remove, sometimes requiring partial disassembly of the AMS or even the AMS internal hub.  There is a "trick" that I recently found to clear AMS jams though, and if it works, it can save a good bit of time.  The method I've been able to use is described below, but this method is not the recommended way to clear filament jams in the AMS, and therefore I have to add that this information is for educational purposes only, and if you follow what I did below, you do so at your own risk.  Additionally, this only works if the jam is inside the AMS, it will not work if the jam is outside the AMS or in the hotend. Also please use eye protection when working on printers, read the manual, don't eat the silica gel packets, etc...

This is the method I've used to clear filament jams inside the AMS, and sometimes it even works:

1. I remove the spool where the break occurred, and wait for the printer to stop trying to load/unload the filament.  There may be a red light on the feeder.  There may be an error message as well. 
2. I then disconnect the Bowden tube at the back of the AMS (this may require partly removing one of the center spools).  If another spool needs to be removed to access the disconnect, I avoid pulling the filament out for that spool.
3. Next I cut off a 16" length of filament, preferably PETG, but definitely not the same wet spaghetti PLA that broke in the first place.  The filament must be good material which can flex without cracking. 
4. I then install a good spool in the slot where the break occurred (not the wet spool), and then feed the filament in as far as it will go through the feeder tube for the slot, until it stops (just until it stops).
5. I next insert the length of good filament (the 16" section) into the back of the AMS where the Bowden was removed, until it stops, keeping some light pressure on it.  It's important to keep fingers far enough away from where the filament goes into the AMS, since the filament will get pulled in on the next step.  A short length of Bowden tube could also be attached to the AMS rear filament inlet to assist with this, but I've done it without needing a tube.
6. From the printer screen, I then attempt to unload the filament on the position where the break occurred.  While the printer is unloading, I keep light pressure on the filament that is fed into the rear of the AMS.  Making sure to keep fingers well away from the rear filament inlet on the AMS, as the filament is pulled into the AMS.
7. Once the AMS starts to draw in the 16" length of filament from the rear of the AMS, I let go of the filament being fed into the AMS.  The rest of the process is hands off.  Any weird noises at this point, I'd probably power off the printer and clear the jam the "correct" way.
8. I allow the filament attached to the good spool, which was fed all the way into the AMS slot to be pushed out.  I usually will try and grab the loose end as it gets ejected from the feeder, so it does not end up tangled.  Following it, should be the broken piece, which will then be followed by the length of good filament (about 16") which was fed in from the back of the AMS.  
9. Once the 16" piece of good filament is pushed out of the AMS (through the front feeder for the slot), the clog should be cleared (if the broken piece was previously ejected from the feeder in the prior step).
10. Finally, I will dry the spool that had the break, and then it can be reloaded into the same slot. It should be possible to continue printing at that point using the dry filament.

The TL;DR of this is that I use a section of filament from both sides of the break, which are pushed against the broken section of filament inside the AMS.  The AMS can then (potentially) unload the filament, and move the broken piece out when the internal hub and the feeder drive against the good sections of filament that "sandwich" the break.  If it works, the broken part will be driven out through the feeder, along with the good sections of filament used to drive the break though the AMS.

If that does not work, then the AMS will need to be disassembled to clear the jam.  It's not a bad idea to do that anyway, since it allows the internal Bowden tubes to be inspected for wear, and if the clog is inside the hub, the hub can also be cleaned out (it collects filament dust over time).  As with any off label work on a printer, I always try and be ready to shut off the printer, if things start making weird noises.  It hasn't happened yet, but a "plan B" is always a good idea.