​I picked up a few TP-Link Tapo Cameras and also a few Energy Monitoring Smart Plugs, which are on sale at Amazon currently (with the lowest prices historically, according to CamelCamelCamel).  Tapo seems to be the name of TP-Link's newer smart home devices, although they are still selling the Kasa line of similar devices.  Many of the TAPO devices are "Matter" compatible, which means they will work with Alexa, Google, Samsung SmartThings and Apple Homepod.  I'm no expert on smart home stuff, but I found a link which indicates that both Kasa and Tapo devices can also work with Home Assistant.  I am pretty impressed with the value of these smart home cameras and switches though.

As far as the sale is concerned, I picked up several Tapo cams and smart power switches, since they are the lowest prices ever according to CamelCamelCamel's price history:

• Tapo P115 Power Monitoring Smart Plugs (4-Pack) $27.99 (before a $5 off coupon and another 25% off if using the Amazon Prime credit card to check out).
• Tapo C120 2K WIFI (only) Indoor/Outdoor Camera $27.99
• Tapo C520WS 2k WIFI or Wired Indoor/Outdoor Pan and Tilt Camera with a Starlight Sensor $54.99
• Tapo C310 2K WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera $26.99
• Tapo C320 2k WIFI or Wired Outdoor Camera with Starlight Sensor $34.99

I've so far received and installed the P115 Smart Plugs, the C120 and C520WS cameras.  All the cameras I installed are being integrated into an older NVR (Network Video Recorder), which has a mix of IP and analog cameras.  The Tapo cameras require setup via the Tapo app, but otherwise worked well with the third party NVR, using ONVIF and RSTP to stream the video.  For cameras I set up, they can record locally to an SD while also streaming to the NVR, which is a nice bit of redundancy (however that is not possible with the Tapo solar or battery powered cameras, which will either record locally or stream).  

The night vision is pretty good on the C120 and C520WS (I have not yet tested the others), but there is something a bit odd about the way the Starlight sensor cams work.  The C520WS has great black and white night vision, however to use the color night vision, the white light LEDs need to be on, which is not really well noted in the amazon listing.  The color night vision is also not as crisp as the black and white, so I have left it off after trying it out.  I also don't like the idea of having the LEDs on all night.  There is a mode where the camera will normally run in black and white, but switch on the LEDs and change to color if it detects movement, which may be a decent balance.

Interestingly, the C120, which is the cheapest camera, seems to run with color night vision in lower light than the C520WS (which has the Starlight sensor).  The color night vision on the C120 will switch to black and white below a threshold, but it has been working in color, with a low amount of light (less than from a typical outside porch light).  Both cameras have good quality daytime video, and the C520WS has pretty sharp nighttime video (in black and white).  They also support audio with a microphone and speaker to talk through the camera.  

If running the Tapo cameras with an NVR, the setup for the cams has to be done via the Tapo App, however once that is done, the App is not required further.  The Tapo App can also be used in combination with an NVR, but it will of course only control the Tapo and Kasa devices.  To set up an NVR, a local account must first be set up on each camera, with a username and password.  This has some security implications, so it should only be done on an isolated network, where the cameras are not exposed to the internet.  After that, they can be set up as RSTP and ONVIF devices.  The RSTP port is 554 with a URL similar to this (rtsp://192.168.YYY.XXX:554/stream1).  The Pan Tilt camera uses ONVIF and RSTP, and is set up using ports 554 (RSTP) and 2020 (ONVIF).  For the C520WS, I used the RSTP port as 554 and set the HTTP port as 2020 (same as the ONVIF), since the NVR only had options for RSTP and HTTP under the ONVIF camera setup.  Using HTTP port 2020 was the only way to get the NVR to work with the pan and tilt functions of the Tapo C520WS.   It also took a reboot of the camera and the NVR to get them to talk with each other, but that's sort'a par for the course with security cameras and NVR's unfortunately. 

During the install of the C520WS, which I first set up wireless, and then changed over to wired ethernet, I noted that the MAC address was the same on wired ethernet or wireless.  Therefore, I think it's an either/or, and the WIFI and wired would not be used at the same time.  I actually deleted the camera as a WIFI camera, and then re-installed it as a wired camera, but I am not sure if there was another way to switch it over (I had some unrelated network issues to deal with during the install, so much of that is a blur lol).

The AI detection on these cameras works very well, with simple to configure zones and very good detection.  The alerts are quite a bit more accurate than older systems, which can be tricked by moving branches.  And it all runs locally on the cameras which is really nice.  There have been a few false positives, but the AI tracking really will track a moving car or person.  Since the features run on the cameras, the NVR doesn't need to be smart, it just needs to record.

The P115 Smart Plugs are being used to monitor power usage on several PC's, a couple appliances, and also a 3D printer.  They were easy to set up, each taking a just a couple minutes, with it all being done over Bluetooth (the initial config is over Bluetooth, but they use WIFI once set up).  The data they are collecting is going to be very useful to track down some devices which may need an energy diet.  The plugs provide some nice graphs of usage, and also current power utilization.  They claim to be able to handle 15A, and otherwise they do what they claim, so I'm happy, especially at the current prices.  

Aside from the unique challenges of setting up the C520WS with an NVR, the install on these cameras went pretty smooth, and they they offer a good (and inexpensive) upgrade to older analog (dumb) cameras.  The only downside I found was the pretty weak mount on the C120, which has a magnet and a couple thin arms to point the camera.  It will work if it's up high and out of the wind, or better, inside, but I don't think it is robust enough to rely on if mounted in an exposed spot.  Since I never can be really happy with something, until I've 3D printed something else to make it "better", I designed a "wall wart" mount for the C120 which converts it into a more secure, and a bit more tamper proof camera.  It's of course plastic, and won't stop somebody who is determined to knock it out, but hopefully the camera will have performed it's mission by then at least.  I'm still testing the new mount design, and may make a few changes, but I'm mostly happy with it so far.

Update 9/18/2024:  I decided to make up some junction boxes to fit the wires that will connect up these cameras.  So far I have made a couple versions of the boxes, one that fits PG16 cable glands (maybe other sizes in the final version), and another type of box that fits my own cable gland design (which is needed for the larger 23mm connectors on the outdoor cameras).  For the C120 cameras, which use a USB-C for power, and will be mounted in the wall warts as shown above, there is a box that will have a 12v->5v buck converter, a fuse holder, and three WAGO 221-413 (3 port) connectors, to make the wiring simple.  The boxes will use M3 hardware, and do not require supports.  

Update 9/25/2024:  I have installed a couple boxes, but have not installed the C120 cameras with the printed "wall wart" mount yet, since I am waiting on one more part (some 5x20 fuses).  It's amazing how hard it is to get decent Bussman or Littlefuse 5x20 glass fuses without spending an arm and a leg for them.  I don't trust the no-name brand glass fuses thanks to several reviews like this one, which demonstrate how they are not always properly rated.  I ended up buying some Bussman fuses from Arrow, and got a decent assortment to have on hand for projects.  I also found a bunch of Raspberry Pi and electronics projects related items that must have been getting blown out at really good prices (some I think were considered "obsolete" - but wire and switches don't go bad lol), so loaded up a reasonable amount on those as well.  When I get these mounted and tested in the printed enclosure, I will post another update.  

Update 9/26/2024:  I received the fuses and hooked up the C120 camera enclosure with the 12V -> 5V buck converter, fuse and WAGOs, and then tested everything.  Just a side note, Arrow does too good a job at packaging their products.  Everything was packed in anti-static bags, even the fuses and some wire I picked up.  Some of the LEDs I ordered were already in antistatic packaging, but were also placed neatly into their own (second) anti-static bags.  It's pretty crazy how well some of the fuses were packed too (some were packed in a box with foam).  I really hate seeing all that waste, but I guess if I ever need a bunch of anti-static bags, all I need to do is put in an order to Arrow LOL (they have good prices and ship quick too).  Now back to the enclosure business - it works well, and draws between 160-180mA on the 12V input to the buck converter when the camera is in use (with WiFi, sound, speaker and detection, etc), or about 2 watts.  The pics below all show current being measured (I forgot to take the meter off the 10A input, but the reading should be close).  I also got some pics of the basic box, which was installed with a POE power splitter and some cable glands. 

I'm gonna make some changes to the box, and add a TPU washer for the cable glands, and maybe a weather cap for the fuse holder.  I may not include the cable glands in the final version, since they are not waterproof if the cable is too large or small (they are more water resistant).  I think standard PG-16 or other more water tight cable glands are probably a better option anyway, but I like my version for the size and cost.

Update 9/29/2024: I removed this update since I decided to go with a commercially available cable pass through.  Much simpler and will do the job better I think.

Update 9/30/2024:  I still need to get the wire pass through box printed (edit - I decided to go with another option for the pass through), but I picked up a couple more Tapo cameras, and a wired doorbell cam as well for $50 on sale (the wireless version is a couple bucks cheaper after $3 coupon).  But when I went to check out, I noticed that on the page right before hitting the button to order, there is an option which said "Device linked to your Amazon account to simplify setup." with "Change" below it.  Clicking "Change" will allow un-linking the cameras from the Amazon account, which I'd recommend, unless you intend to use them with Alexa.  I'd expect this if I was ordering a Fire Stick or Tablet, but it seems kind'a sneaky that Amazon is slipping in Alexa preconfiguration on a Tapo camera.  Opting in to that really should not be the default option, as well.  Just something else to watch out for. 

I could not find anywhere on Amazon to check if there are any devices tied to Alexa (so they could be removed), so I expect that the Alexa app may be required for that, which I don't plan to install.  The sneaky checkout Alexa setup default option seems like the only downside to the cameras though, they are working really well, and are a big upgrade from the old analog cams they are replacing.  I have had a few issues with the app, but they seem likely related to the Wi-Fi connection between the phone and router, since the cameras seem to connect OK.  They also record locally, so if the cameras lose the network connection to the NVR, they can still record to their local SD card.

​The Tapo cameras are simple enough to set up with the Tapo app anyway.

Update 10/8/2024:  I picked up yet a few more Tapo cameras, which are still on sale, now for the Amazon "Big Deals" day (October 8-9).  I really like the C320WS, which sits in the middle of the pack between the C310 and C325WB.  I'm too cheap to buy the C325WB, though I have heard it has really good color night vision.  The C320WS however seems more responsive than the C310, has a wider field of view, looks sharper and maintains color night vision in areas with some lighting at night.  The C320WS however does not have what I would call "true" color night vision, since if it is very dark, it will either need to use the built in white lights, or switch to black and white with IR illumination.  For "true" color night vision, I think the C325WB is a better bet (though it costs almost twice as much as the C320WS). 

The very cheap C120 is also a really nice camera for the money, and also stays in color night mode as long as there is some light in the area (like from a porch or street light).  I'm still tweaking the design of my "wall wart" mount for the C120, since I decided it needs some holes to drain any water that may get into the mount.  I'm running some more tests of that new iteration of the design, and will update here when it's done.

Update 10/18/2024: The design works, but after thinking about it some more today, I had some ideas on how to improve it.  Installing the prior version was not as simple as it should be, and I also wanted to make the drain holes optional.  The current, I think 3rd version of this design, covers those improvements an a few more.  The drain holes are now hidden, unless they are needed, and then they can simply be punched out of the base during installation.  The parts also go together much simpler, with less pre-assembly (the camera should still be installed in the ball part of the mount beforehand).  Finally, there will be an option for a TPU gasket on the camera, to better seal the front from moisture.  This housing is not designed to be water tight, rather it is designed to allow for drainage when water does get in, but the TPU seal on the front of the camera should limit water from getting into the mount.  The cameras are outdoor rated, so the housing just needs to keep water from accumulating around it.  I plan to test this once my prototype is done printing. 

If running this without the TPU gasket, everything fits on one plate (without supports), and the print time should be about 6 hours.  If everything looks good when I get this printed, installed and tested, then I will post links to my MakerWorld and Printables libraries where the models can be downloaded. 

Update 10/19/2024:  After running off one of the new version mounts yesterday, I found a few more small things to fix or improve, and once I can test those later today, I think this one may be in the bag.  I also added a version of the cover without the holes, since the new design no longer requires them. The new mount design has an M3x8mm screw which holds the cover on through a groove in the base, which would be attached to the wall with screws.  That is the more typical design for these wall wart style mounts, and should work fine in most cases.  Really though, there are 2 ways to mount it, and I think that using the mounting holes which through the cover will add a lot of strength in any location where the camera could be reached easily.  I also added some bumps on the base of the mount to help indicate where the holes are, if using the three screw holes through the cover to mount it. 

There is also an update to the TPU gasket design, which will now index itself in the correct position, since I realized when testing the initial gasket design, that it can rotate out of position during installation (though it was not really a big problem).  The ball design also required a small change to allow the gasket to index, so that is being re-printed as well to test. 

Finally, I added a few bends and bumps to better hold the USB-C power cable, when routing it through the base of the mount.  That change should make for bit of resistance to better grip the USB cable.

Hopefully these updates will move this project over the finish line, since I have two more of these C120 cameras to install yet.

Update 10/22/2024: The C120 mount is now uploaded on Printables and MakerWorld, you can find them at the links below:

https://www.printables.com/model/1047621-tapo-c120-camera-wall-wart-mount

​https://makerworld.com/en/models/722213#profileId-653148

Update 11/5/2024:  I uploaded a simple sign for the camera, which you can find at the links below:
​
https://makerworld.com/en/models/761519#profileId-696242

https://www.printables.com/model/1063786-video-surveillance-sign-with-screw-or-3m-command-s

For some things where the typical 95A TPU is too hard, ESun's 83A TPE really can shine, since it is more flexible, and can provide a rubbery surface where that may be necessary.  I've been working on a couple projects where a more rubbery material is required, so have been having to run some of the ESun TPE though my Bambu X1C.  I say "having to run" since it is a bit of a pain to get it working well.  I have not found a spool roller which did not overly stretch the TPE before it could reach the hotend, so I have been resorting to stabbing a short length of Bowden tube into the hot end (which runs over the side), and then laying out the length of filament to the side of the printer in a figure 8 loop.  That setup allows for a low friction filament path, and works well.. as long as I unspool enough material.  Although that method works, I still have a good share of failures with it, some are just general weird issues where I cannot be sure what happened, while others are my fault for one reason or another.  I do have more successes than failures though, and considering the difficulty of the material, I just consider it a learning experience.  

The only change I make in the slicer when running this TPE, is to run it with gyroid infill, and to use the "Generic TPU" filament profile with the "Max Volumetric Speed" set to 2.0m³/s.

So, although the ESun 83A TPE is a good choice if the 95A TPU won't work, it is a bit more difficult to run, due to it's stretchy nature.  I don't consider that a drawback though, since it is just a more flexible material, and therefore more difficult.  One thing that does concern me though, is that when I've had to open the enclosure when this TPE is running, I notice that my sinuses seem to be a bit irritated afterwards.  It doesn't smell however, and this is just an observation of something that has occurred several times while working with it.  I run this, and really everything, inside a ducted and filtered enclosure, so I don't notice anything normally, which is fortunate.  Needless to say, I don't enjoy running this material, but it's good to know that I can if I have to.  If running this though, I strongly suggest using a vented enclosure.

TL;DR

The GOOD:

• It can print really nicely (when dry).
• It is more flexible and "rubbery" or grippy than standard 95A TPU.
• It is on the less expensive side for a more flexible filament (around $28).

The BAD:

• It takes a bit of work to get enough friction out of the filament path, to get it to feed correctly.
• A top mount, ball bearing, center axis spool holder, and a direct drive, would be the best setup (with the spool almost centered over the bed).
• Even with a smooth filament path, some failures will still happen.

The UGLY:

• I'd only run it in a ducted enclosure.

I'm always open to suggestions for new designs, so when someone requested a small shelf for a baby monitor with a place for the wires to be stashed out of sight, I thought it was a really cool idea (they gave me a bunch of boosts too, which made it even cooler :D).  The shelf started out as a simple and quick design, with a pocket to hide the wires.  When I finished the design though, a family member mentioned they would be able to use a small shelf too.  I then decided to add a small drawer, and when that design was completed, I thought "why not have a drawer and a place to stash wires?"... So that's what I'm printing now. 

On the version with a small drawer and wire stash, the stash is about 25x30x150mm, so it should hold most small wires for things like a clock (or a baby monitor).  The small drawer has an inside volume of 30x67x150mm, and slides in from the back with a catch, so it cannot be pulled all the way out.  The drawer shelf version without a stash, has a drawer volume of 30x95x150mm.

The first version without a drawer is already uploaded on Printables and MakerWorld.

The drawer and drawer plus stash versions will be uploaded soon.

Update 9/9/2024:  The drawer version is now uploaded to MakerWorld and Printables.  There are several versions, including the following options:

• 3M Command Strip mounting or #10 screw mounting options for the shelf.
• Large full size drawer, or an option with a smaller drawer and a cable stash.
• Plan front versions of both large and small drawers, with a drill guide for 128mm, 96mm and 3" handles, or a center pull.  These are designed to work with custom or off the shelf pulls and handles, and will require drilling out the holes to mount the hardware.

Here are just a couple notes on the design:

• If using the large drawer version, there is a model with no cable management cut-outs which should be used.
• The cable stash is not accessible once the shelf is installed, since the stash and the drawer are installed from the back of the shelf, prior to mounting.
• If using 3M command strips, printing with a smooth plate is recommended, since that will give the strips the best surface to adhere to.  I also suggest using PLA over PETG, since PLA seems to have a better surface for sticking the strips to.  Finally, if the adhesion of the strips needs a boost, I sometimes will add 2-3 small drops of superglue before applying the strips to the part.  That will help bond the strips to the model, but should still allow for pulling them off (as long as the glue is kept to a minimum).
• If using the drawers with custom or off the shelf pulls or handles, it may help to use a bright flashlight inside the drawer to highlight the drill templates, if you cannot angle a drill from the inside to make pilot holes.  That may not work on dark filaments however.  You could also heat a nail up with a lighter and poke it through from the inside to get a starter hole that could be drilled from the front.

Update 9/27/2024:  There is a version 2 now available on Printables.  It is not tested, but the changes are mostly cosmetic, so there should not be any issues with it.  The changes include:

• The shelf supports are now simple 45° legs, which will help with reducing some of the ugly layer lines on the original (which had steeper slopes on the legs).
• The holes for the cable management version of the shelves are now centered and inline with each other.  That should make it easier to install or remove a cable, once the shelf is mounted to the wall.

Update 10/5/2024:  I updated the design a bit, and consolidated them all into one post on MakerWorld and Printables (instead of posting remixes for every version).  

There are now two more types, with shorter legs (one with a hexagonal pattern).  There is a 3MF profile for all the models included.

I tested out a couple ideas to add a pop-up mechanism to lift/tilt the glass on the Bambu X1C LED riser.  The initial idea was to use a latching pop up mechanism with springs. However that design had several points where parts were too weak, and I didn't think it would last.  So I decided to skip the fancy pop up and use something simpler.  The 2nd version is just a rotating block, which can be flipped into position to provide a couple raised points.  There will be two of these on each side of the front of the riser, which will just flip into position so the top glass can be tilted up with the front of the glass resting on these blocks.  The new design has a hinge which uses two tiny rice size pins, which slide into position when the block is fully assembled.  It works surprisingly well for such small parts.  

​The first image below is the pop up block, which was abandoned in favor of the simpler tilting block, shown next.  The prototype parts were all printed in Duramic3D Gray PLA+, however in the final design, the top covers will be made from TPU.  The prototypes are cut down versions of the models, to minimize waste during testing, however the pop up mechanism will be integrated into the L-shaped front corners of the final LED riser design.

Update 2: I have a couple more ideas for additions to the riser, but I need to wait for parts (from AliExpress).  I expect that I can get back to this in about 2 weeks when the parts arrive.

Update 9/8/2024: AliExpress was pretty quick this time, and I now have the parts I needed.  The first update will be to add some 3x10mm cylinder magnets to the swing up block, which helps to hold it in place when raised (this is tested and works).  The second update is still in progress, and will be an optional PIR sensor wired in series with the LEDs.  That should enable me to leave the LED's on only when printing, since the PIR should detect the movement of the print head.  These changes need to be fully tested, and I plan to build a 2nd riser to make sure it all works correctly.

Update 9/8/2024 (2):  The design is completed, so I next need to test it out.  The PIR is angled down by 10°, however that was just based on a guess.  It may require a redesign if it is not triggering from the movement of the hot end.

Update 9/14/2024: I'm printing the parts for this now, starting with the TPU (really TPE) gaskets.  

Update 9/27/2024: There were a few side projects that bumped this down a few pegs on the priorities list, but I'm printing the parts again now.  The TPU parts are all printed, so I just have a few of the corners to print.

Lately I've been considering a Printables Club, so I can get some cheddar to defray the cost of this hobby I love, and maybe offer some commercial licenses.  I really like the idea of the clubs, since they help creators and also support Printables (they take a 10% cut).  But after reading through the terms, I think it would be too much of a hassle.  The problem is taxes.  It's not that there is a problem with paying income taxes on earnings from the clubs, but rather, the process of paying sales taxes and VAT on every membership.  From what I read in the terms:

"3.6. Please note that if you offer digital content to third parties for a fee through PRINTABLES STORE, the income from such activity will most likely be considered business income and the operation of a business. In this regard, you are fully responsible for ensuring that such activity complies with the applicable laws and regulations that apply to you and such activity, including any applicable tax regulations and obligations, including any applicable VAT. You acknowledge that when setting the price for digital content in the Store, you are required to state the Selling Price so that it is inclusive of all taxes and fees that are associated with the sale of digital content under applicable law ("Selling Price"). You, as the Creator, are responsible in particular for ensuring that the Selling Price is the final display price to the Buyer."

and

"4.5. All tax obligations, levies and reporting related to the Creator's revenue from the sale of digital content are the sole responsibility of the Creator. In this context, the Creator may use third-party services such as STRIPE TAX or specialist accounting firms. PRUSA is not obliged or authorised to provide the Creator with any accounting, tax or legal advice in this context."

So if that means that creators need to manage the remittance of sales and VAT, that'd be a pretty big deal for me.  I'd not expect to make more than a couple hundred bucks a year from clubs, which would not be worth the hassle of figuring out how to pay sales taxes and VAT for memberships paid by EU members.    

I checked Patreon, and it seems they do collect taxes and VAT (for many US states and countries at least), and I believe they take care or remitting the sales taxes and VAT where they collect it at least.  That way (from my understanding), the creators only need to worry about their own personal (or business) income taxes, and not paying the local taxes for every transaction.  This seems like a reasonable approach.

I looked at STRIPE TAX, and it looks like an administrative burden for the average person without a business (with a business it would probably be worthwhile though).  So if I understand this correctly, I cannot see any way that using a Printables club would be worth my time, considering the associated hassle in trying to pay every tax related to the transactions. 

I've lately been touched by a bit of "gridsanity", while I've been organizing a bunch of small electronic component and hardware organizers into a Gridfinity system.  To transfer the parts from their stock plastic organizers (the clear plastic type that come with many small parts), I've been designing a bunch of 1x3 and 2x3 multi compartment lidded bins.  When those were about done (with the CAD part), I saw a great comment by MooseMan over on MakerWorld, who suggested that some form of latching mechanism would be beneficial to have on the smaller lidded bins (to paraphrase).  That was something I'd tried initially, when I was designing the smaller lidded bins.  But I didn't spend much time on it, since I just needed the lids to keep small items from migrating between bin compartments when using them with my cases.  So the issue of the small lids needing to stay closed was not a big deal (since the case lid keeps them closed).  But I told him I would think about possible solutions, since sometimes coming back to an idea will giggle some betters ones loose.  I'm not sure if this is a better idea yet (I still need to test print it when my printer is free again), but from the slicer and CAD, it looks like it could work.  There are some internal bits which perform a latching function, but again I have no idea how well any of that will work yet.  These will not be heavy duty latches in any case though, since the parts are so small.  For a more robust latch, I suggest using my latching bins (here, here, here and here), though they are larger, with the smallest being a 1x2.  

Update: My prototypes never work this well on the first attempt, but I will take it!  I just got the test bin off the printer and the lid works really well.  The snap closure is better than I could have hoped for, and the latch actually holds pretty well.  I am gonna do some more testing to see if the snap action degrades with use, but I think this is a winner!

Update 8/25/2024: Between other things, I've been working on these as a replacement for the lidded bins.  After running a few tests without any issues, I started designing more bins, and forgot to stop.  Below is a pic showing the almost 100 bins, and well over 100 parts so far.  I think I've made every permutation of 1x3, 2x2 and 2x3 bins, with between 2 and 10 compartments.  

Now, the hard part is gonna be exporting these, and figuring out some logical way of setting up profiles (the part I really dislike unfortunately).  I'm also doing some more test prints to verify that everything works.  But I'm not printing every flavor of these bins, just some representative examples that I can actually use.  Unfortunately, due to a new latching feature, only the lids will be backward compatible with the new design, not the bases.  This is gonna be a lot of work though, and I still have several other projects that need my attention, so there is no eta.

Update 8/27/2024: I was in the process of modeling some additional bins and noticed something odd.  It turns out that somewhere along the line I managed to rotate every single bin by 0.062°.  I have no idea how long this had been going on, but fortunately it does not appear to have caused a problem with the bins themselves, but was a bit of a pain to correct since there are so many objects in the workspace that I had to rotate them back in chunks.  I also managed to print a few dud bins, where I forgot to add notches for the latches, and a few latches that somehow got exported to STL's with a few errors which caused some failures...good times. There are some new 2 compartment bins, which required some tweaking to the parts where the lid rest against the bins, to improve the functionality.  It's good to test though, since stuff happens, and it's better to know before that stuff wastes other people's filament (OPF?).  I'm still adding to the collection as I go on organizing my collections of hardware bits, so there may be a few more before I'm done.  The plan is to stick with the 1x, 2x2 and 2x3 bins for now, and there are currently variations from 2 to 10 compartments per bin. 

Update 8/29/2024:  I have quite a collection of these latching bins, with various iterations of the design, and I've learned a few things while putting them together.  The design works well, but assembly is a bit tedious, and the filament hinge can be tricky to insert.  I have been using a small flat nose pliers to install the filament hinge, and have gotten the process down pretty good to where I don't have much of a problem... but it's not as simple as I think it could be.  So I went back and made some changes to the lid design, which will hopefully remove the need for the filament hinge - though that could still be an option.  There is one downside to the new lid design though, and that is a couple of small 1mm wide openings, which are needed to give the room to flex the hinge into position.  These could cause problems with really small items (like m1 or m1.2 hardware), so I plan to keep the filament hinge version as an option, if these work out.  

Update 9/3/2024:  I keep finding small optimizations to help with printing these.  The models have some small features, and I've had a few failures in my test prints, which were related to the integrated supports.  The problems were due to adhesion of the small support features.  So I went through all the bin lids, and added a larger brim for the supports, and also fixed a few of the models which did not get exported to STL's correctly.  The last thing I want to do is spend all the time and effort to plate these up in a 3mf profile, then find out there are problems with the design (and have to do it all over again).  I think though, although I cannot test every bin and lid combo (there are over a hundred models), the problems are worked out now.  

Something that I need to decide on though, is whether or not to keep an option for the flip up (non-latching) lids.  I will probably drop those, since the latching lids are better in most ways.  And if it seems like the non-latching lids could be needed, I can always add them later.  I plan to release the new latching lids with both the filament hinge option, and also a snap in lid option, since some folks will probably need the filament hinge version for one reason or another.  I also suspect that some filaments will be too brittle for the snap in lids (like ABS).  My test prints all use Duramic3D PLA+ in Gray, and so far I have not snapped a hinge installing them, but they do need to flex a bit before they pop in place.

Update 9/6/2024: I keep having odd failures in about 1 out of 15 lids that I print, usually due to adhesion of the integrated supports, but sometimes other problems which are more general to 3D printing small features.  Part of the problem is probably related to using a smooth PEI sheet to print them, which helps with the labels, but is generally more troublesome than a textured sheet.  I've reworked the integrated supports once already, but am considering doing it again, to see if it helps.  The supports are probably never gonna be perfect for every printer, and I hate the idea of increasing support material waste, but I think adding a bit more will save filament in the long run (due to fewer failed lids).    

Update 9/22/2024: There was some time this week, so I worked on getting the integrated supports fixed, and the print failures seem to be resolved.  There will be a bit more waste, since the fix was to wrap a few lines of material around the doors, to connect each independent support.  I also did a plate setup with all the models, which was a big pain in the rear (and it's not over yet).

I had to print a few dozen more lids to test things out, and I noticed that maybe the tabs are a bit tight.  Since the tabs are the supports for part of the lids, they require a bit of leverage from something pointy and flat to break them free (I use a letter opener, which is maybe a bit too sharp, but it works well).  Still, after breaking them free, they are a bit tight, until they loosen up after cycling a few times.  I think that could be improved though, and I have a simple idea to make them a bit less tight, but still tight enough.  If that works, then I think this will be done (finally).  I've thought that this was almost done for a while, but this tab issue should be the last tweak, since everything else has been tested.  I did not test every single bin though, but I tested enough of them, and every type, to be sure they will work.

Update 9/25/2024:  I spent a few hours testing about a dozen iterations of the tabs, with very small adjustments to optimize the amount of force needed to unlatch them.  I also tested with PLA and PETG to see if the same design worked OK for both (it did fortunately), so the tabs are now looking good.  I spent another hour working on updating the 3mf profiles with the new lids (and tabs), and am about half way through 'em.  

It was pointed out on Reddit that some of my Gridfinity Stuff is not posted under the correct license, though it was not noted what the correct license is.  I had thought that Gridfinity was more a spec, but after looking around for info on it, I'm not sure if that is the case or if I need to attribute a specific source.  I pulled the models down temporarily while I look into this.  Sorry for the inconvenience, but it's important to make sure I can get it right.

Update - after an hour (or more) of sorting through a dozen websites, and the VoidstarLabs discord, I'm still looking for a way forward.  First for some context though, I would l like to keep some of the Gridfinity stuff I have made under the Standard Digital License, for several reasons:

• I want to be able to maintain the designs, which means I want to control which repositories they are available on (currently MakerWorld and Printables).  The CC licenses are very permissive about redistribution (not a surprise, since that is an obvious goal).  What that means for 3D designers is that models can be copied and uploaded by anyone, to any repository.  That is great from an open source standpoint, but sucks when a designer wants to get feedback and maintain a design.  Add to that the financial incentives some repositories stack on, and it becomes a bit sour tasting to find ones models on random sites, where somebody is collecting points for simply moving your design from A to B.
• I may in the future want to start a Printables Club, and would like to offer some designs exclusively.  Nothing that is currently available would be moved to an exclusive design, but I have some things in the works that could be.
• Traditionally the concept of "remixing" has been loosely defined as making a substantial change to an original model, where the "remix" has some new function or aesthetic difference.  The CC licenses however are much more permissive of what is considered an adaptation, and they way I read it, it seems that can include simply scaling or rearranging the parts of a model.  So (again from how I read it), the CC license concept of an adaption, would commonly be referred to as a "copy" in the 3D printing world, with some changes made in the slicer covered as "remixes".  The repositories sometimes go a step further than the CC license though, and try to remove obvious copies which clutter the space - but that is inconsistent at best.  If you haven't guessed, I'm not a fan of slicer or low effort remixes, which either scale or rearrange a designers models, without adding anything substantive or new on their own.
• I do not currently license my designs for commercial work. Originally that was because this is just a hobby and I could afford to use up filament to test and get designs ready for being shared.  But over time, the expenses have added up, and it would be nice to defray some of the costs involved.  The Standard Digital License should allow me to have that option if I want to use it.  On some models with the CC BY-NC-SA license, I've been told by sellers who were inappropriately selling my stuff, that they thought it was OK if they "threw it in as a freebie", or in other cases they found my designs through remixes which were not correctly licensed for NC.

So the Standard Digital License is great?  Not really, I think it is just the best of the worst for my situation.  I'd like to allow remixing, just not the low effort kind of "slicer remixing".  The Standard Digital License should block commercial use though, since there is pretty much no question about that.  Maybe one day we will have an off the shelf license that will better suit 3D models, and has a tighter definition of adaptions or remixes.

Back to how I can manage to keep the Standard Digital License (or in some case the CC BY-NC-SA license), while also correctly attributing Zach Freedman's work to create the Gridfnity Standards?  Well that will take some more research, since there are a few factors I need to look at.  The MIT license, which Zach Freedman used to unleash Gridfinity on an unsuspecting world, does not require that derivative works use that same (or any particular) license.  It is considered a very permissive license apparently, only requiring attribution by the posting his MIT license with the derivative work (though again the derivative work does not need to be distributed under the same MIT license.  I have some other concerns though, which I need to research, and I'm not a lawyer.  So it's gonna take some time, but I want to get this right so I don't need to do this again.


Update 2: Digging deeper, I think that I can keep the Standard Digital License on the models where it is already applied, however I will need to add Zach's MIT license to the description.  I have never actually seen Zach Freedman's MIT license on any Gridfinity designs though, so it makes me wonder why I was called out for it on Reddit (but it's good that it happened, so I can fix this).  I suspect the user may have thought I should be using one of the CC licenses and not the restrictive Standard Digital License.  However (I think) that the CC licenses, by themselves, do not technically satisfy the MIT license for Zach Freedman's work either.  That is because they do not attribute, and do not include Zach Freedman's MIT license.  It's all really confusing, which is unfortunate, since it seems the MIT license was chosen because it's one of the most permissive, not to cause confusion.  

So I will need to add some text to make it clear that the MIT license is for the Gridfinity elements of the design only, or the "gridfinity spec" as I would call it, and added to satisfy Zach Freedman's MIT license requirements.  However, the MIT license will not be the license which my models are going to be licensed under, since that is not required (the only requirements seem to be that there is attribution and that Zach's MIT license is displayed).  But again I AM NOT A LAWYER, so don't take any of this as advice, I'm just trying to work through this, and figure out the best way forward. 

I'm gonna try and think up some text to add and explain Zach Freedmans's MIT license in the description of my designs, and also thank him for introducing the world to Gridfinity, in the least confusing way possible (lol, wish me luck).  Once I get some boilerplate, then I will start working through each model to update the descriptions, so they will be compliant.  After that the models will be made public again.  I don't plan to change the existing licenses used for my models though.  
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In the meantime if there are questions on the designs, please contact me via PM on Printables, and I will do what I can to assist.      

Update 3 - 8/17/2024: I think I have some "boilerplate" that explains Zach Freedman's MIT license and gives proper credit for the Gridfinity design elements (or specification) used in my designs.  However before I go all in, and update every one of my Gridfinity models, which is a bit of work that I'd rather not do twice, I asked the Reddit community in r/Gridfinity for their advice.  I also asked if there is a known example of how to do it.

Update 4 - 8/17/2024:  r/Gridfinity came through, and I feel better about the text I was planning to add, and added a bit more based on the discussion.  I'm still working on it, But things will back up soon (definitely this week and probably much sooner).

Update 5 - 8/18/2024:  After reading through the posts on Reddit and thinking about this, I decided to add an attribution and thanks comment to my models with Zach Freedman's Patreon and Youtube links.  I did not post the MIT license, since it is the Gridfinity specification that I'm using (or at least something close to it that is compatible), and I did not directly remix Zach's original models (which I had to go looking for on his Thangs account, when I first started this side quest).  I am not a lawyer though, and this is not by any stretch of the imagination, advice.  But that is how I'm attributing him for sharing the Gridfinity system with the world, and I hope it's correct.   I'm updating the models now, and have everything on Printables back up, aside from a few older revisions of some designs, which I decided to leave down since they are not maintained anymore.  I'm having a problem updating the MakerWorld stuff though.  I was able update a few things on MakerWorld, but the last several I updated did not seem to take.  I'm gonna circle back later today and see if I can finish those up and get them updated.  

There are a few updates I'm working on, which should be posted soon (aiming for this week).  The first are some additional labels for the Bambu Spares case, along with an revised SD card holder.  The SD card holder on the current case is just a slot and works fine, since really it is just a slot which took several revisions to get just right.  The newer design is already used on the A1 Spares Case and has a bit of a spring to help retain the cards.  I need to test how the new design works on the larger X1/P1 case though, since the SD sits a bit deeper in the slots on that case.  

I'm also working on some new single compartment bins, which were requested.  These will use the small tabbed lids, and I decided to make them in 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4 sizes, and in 3U, 6U and 9U depths (from the Gridfinity standard).

The Ikea Alex 57.8mm base "Bigfinity" system is also almost ready to be uploaded.  It's done and tested, I just need to write it up. 

I have a few other things in progress, which I plan to post about when they are closer to being ready. 

Finally, I'm also considering the possibility of setting up a Printables Club for anyone who wants to support my work, but also to set up a method for commercial licensing of some of my models.  I'm still on the fence though, and gathering info and experiences from folks who have went down the same path.  I don't want to have all the fun sucked out of this hobby, due to the expectations that may arise from commercial use licenses.  Currently the only way to sell some of my designs is to violate the license, which is non-commercial on all of my designs, and most of the stuff I remix as well.  That puts legitimate sellers who want to do the right thing in the position of being unable to sell prints of my designs, while many others just copy with impunity.  I also get nothing for my work when that happens.  But like I said, I'm on the fence about the whole thing, and trying to decide if monetizing some of my designs is worth it or not.

I've been testing a few different waist cooling fans, and recently had one of them apart, so I thought I'd post some pics.
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The pics below just show the inside of one of my fans, which is a 20000mAh dual blower waist fan.  The batteries are each 134268 10000mAh 3.7v Lion cells (13x42x68mm), with two cells wired in parallel, and then the two packs connected to the board (total of 4 cells).  This would be a 2P/2S arrangement, and it is nice to see, since it looks like a legitimate 20000mAh pack (though I did not test the capacity).  I can say though that the runtime is several hours on high at least, and I suspect it would probably run at least 8h and maybe close to double that (it should be a 37x4w pack, and the load is probably less than 9w, but there will be loss due to the boost converter). 

As for the output, it is better than the single fan models, but is also heavier.  In practice, I'd say it feels maybe 50% more powerful than the single fan model (which has a smaller battery), which is just my subjective opinion.  I honestly don't mind picking up the single fan model if the dual fan is charging, they both work well enough.  In either case, the tiny fans put out an impressive amount of air, but they are a bit loud on high (like a hair dryer on low).  The runtime should be a bit better on the dual fan model vs the single fan version, but probably not by much.  If you consider buying one of these, make sure to verify the battery sizes though.  The dual fan version should have a 20000mAh battery, and the single fan version should be 10000mAh (I have seen some dual fan models sold with smaller 10000mAh batteries).    

When wearing these on a belt, the weight disappears after a while.  But one problem with all the waist fans I have tried so far (which is 3 versions), is that the clip for holding the fan under a shirt does not keep the tail of the shirt held very well.  They use smooth metal clips to clip to the shirt on one side and the belt on the other, so I suspect it may wear a shirt down over time.  I think possibly adding some fabric tape to the clip, or possibly even the shirt may help with that though.  

I have a few different types of these types of cooling fans, and aside from one of them which I sent back, they all do the job.  I have tested a couple vest type fans as well, and just a tip if considering those, go at least a size larger than you wear.  I have a 3x vest and it feels like a 2x.  I think the waist fans cool a bit better than the vests though, as long as the shirt can stay clipped in place.  I may post a review of the several I versions I have tested in the future.  For work outdoors in hot weather though, these types of devices are really nice to have, despite the drawbacks (bulk, weight and sometimes having to be readjusted).

The links posted here are to amazon listings to the same products I am testing out (my affiliate links), but you can shop around on AliExpress, and find the same things usually cheaper (though shipping is usually slower).    

Update - I added some fabric repair patch to the areas where the clip attaches to a shirt tail, and wrapped some around the metal clip as well.  The hold seems much better now, but I still need to test this.  The tape sticks really well to the plastic (and also to fabric), though I'm not sure how heat affects it, hopefully it will last.

Update 2 - The fabric repair tape on the steel tabs pretty much solves the problem of the shirt getting pulled out of the clip.  I have been using both the dual and single fan belt fans several times each now, and they don't do miracles, but they do help when working outside in the heat.  Now if they could add a Thermo Electric Cooler (TEC), and get a runtime of a couple hours that would be even better, but that is not gonna happen with today's battery tech (TEC's need way too much power, and would also require another fan to remove the heat from the TEC).

The MiniBFS v1.3, which is designed to be printed on an A1 Mini or Prusa Mini size printer, was always intended to be customizable, but when I originally released it, I did not include the customizable insert module.  Today I updated the MiniBFS v1.3 files to include a modular base and lid option (with screw posts to install a custom module insert), and added a separate model of the inserts, which include STL and STEP models.  I had to post the separate design for the module inserts because I want to keep the MiniBFS models under the Standard Digital License (which does not allow remixing), but I want the insert modules (which work with the MiniBFS) to be customizable and remixable.  To do that, I released the insert modules (only) under the  CC BY-NC-SA 4.0, which does allow for remixing.

I hope that posting the insert modules will not lead to confusion for folks who just want to build the MiniBFS v1.3.  I added info to the description better describe the lid and base parts which are included, and make it clear that the "MODULAR" base and lids were only to be used with the customizable inserts (which are blank).  It would be cool to see a remixed base module to hold Prusa Mini tools similar to the A1/A1 Mini Spares case (which I cannot create since I don't own a Prusa Mini).