A while back I did a remix of MandicReally's "Voron Y Endstop Relocation w/ PG7 Cable Gland Mount".  The purpose of the remix is to allow it to be used with the Linneo cable harness, which uses a (CNLinko) square flange mount with 4x M2x10 FHCS screws (with 13x13mm spacing), instead of a standard PG-7 cable gland. The cable "guard" cover is also thickened to approx 2.4mm, but otherwise it is identical to the original design:

https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Voron%20Y%20Endstop%20Relocation%20w%2F%20PG7%20Cable%20Gland%20Mount-910854

The modification was suggested and tested by Steiner-Se over on Printables, who was planning to use a Linneo cable harness on a 2.4 R2 build (with the LDO Nitehawk-SB USB Tool Head). 

I'm currently working on a mod to allow swapping in a PG7 mount (going full circle lol), which is shown in the last 2 pics.  

The PG7 panel mount adapter is now posted (in two sizes, 8mm and 11mm heights).  The height was changed a bit since the last images were posted, but it looks the same otherwise.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1706533-pg7-cable-gland-panel-mount-adapter-m12-threaded#profileId-1810361

My to-do list seems to be growing every week, despite working quite a few hours on the most important ones.  It didn't help this week that I took a quick detour to get some IKEA Skådis pegboards made, so I can reconfigure my workspace and hopefully get some things organized.  To that end, I picked up a pair or 40 bin steel organizers (with plastic bins), and I have to say I am impressed.  They were not cheap, and really put a dent in the budget, but on a cost per bin basis, I could justify it over other solutions.  I was worried they'd get dented up in shipping, but they were double boxed, and the steel is a reasonably sturdy gauge with some internal bolsters even.  I've already managed to fill all 80 of the bins in the two organizers.  I think they will help me find the common things I need for projects, a bit easier.

In order, here are my (current) top 5 projects, and one side quest:

1. Update the Bambu X1/P1 Toolbox with a new gasket design, as well as a new bin design, and some additional latching bin modules for the base (thanks to Lexam over at MakerWorld for the inspiration).  The hotend bins are also completely redesigned (though they still look similar, they are re-done to gain some extra space for wires (and fingers).
   Status: Completed and uploaded to MakerWorld on 8/28/2025:
   
   Bambu Labs X1 & P1 Spare Parts Case (Version 4.0)
   
   
2. An all new "Generic Printer" Toolbox, which is being tested in parallel with the Bambu X1/P1 Toolbox.
   Status: Completed and uploaded to MakerWorld and Printables on 10/11/2025:​
   
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1879290-printer-took-kit-v1-0#profileId-2012201
   
   https://www.printables.com/model/1438284-printer-took-kit-v10
   
   
3. Update the Bento Clone to v2.  This project should have been done months ago, but I lost some of the parts I needed and just recently re-ordered (and received) some more.  This update will add a sensor and MCU module insert to the design, which will allow some expansion possibilities.
   
   Status: I have all the parts, but need to re-print some of the pieces and then test the completed design.  
   
   
4. Update the Bambu X1 Riser Light.  This update is going to add some flip up arms to help vent the lid, along with a PIR sensor for the LEDs and a new label design.  I've been thinking about adding something else to the design, but I don't know if I will have the time for it.
   
   Status:  This is mostly printed, but requires assembly and testing.  I need to inventory what non-printed parts I have, and what I still need.  I will likely need to order some additional parts to test it fully.
   
   
5. Finish the design and testing of a printer exhaust inline boost fan.  I had previously designed an inline fan to help vent an X1 printer by basically sucking the air out the back where the normal exhaust fan is located.  The exhaust fan on the X1 is not sufficient to move air through a HEPA or even exhaust it through a hose, so this fan is designed to assist it to move the exhaust out through a 2.5" hose (or a HEPA filter).  The design is pretty much done, but the latest iteration requires testing.  
   
   ​Status:  The designs are done for the most part, and I've assembled a couple prototypes, but I need to tear one of them down and steal parts to test what I hope is the final version.  The first (or maybe it was the second) prototype is just sufficient, so an updated version will hopefully improve the static pressure with a 2nd fan.  Of all the designs listed, this one seems like the juice may not be worth the squeeze, though I may find it useful even if I don't end up posting it.

And finally, the side quest is to finish loading up my freshly printed Skådis pegboards, which will mean using a mix of designs from MakerWorld or Printables, along with some of my own designs.  I will have to see what I need, but have so far designed a couple of bins to hold a few of my multimeters.  One of them is designed for my Zoyi XT-703S Multimeter Oscilloscope, which is really a cool tool though I often prefer my simpler multimeter which I'm not afraid to drop lol.  These bins will be 100mm and 140mm wide, with some swappable labels.  There will probably be more sizes, as I decide what tools I want to be most easily accessible.  

This list is subject to change if I really need to get something else done, but I wanted to put it down here, since I have a number of stalled projects for lack of parts or some other reason or another.  And to be honest, putting together a polished profile and a description with instructions is the part I usually struggle with.  I enjoy designing, but all the stuff that goes along with uploading and supporting a design can seem like work, more than a fun hobby.  Still it's cool when I can finally upload a design and say it's "done" (at least for now lol).  
​

A Bit Further Down the Road...

There are other projects that are still in the pipeline (I have a whiteboard tracking 14 of them, including the above).  The ones here are just the ones I really want to (finally) get "done", so I can move on to other stuff.  I'm also not going to let this list stand in the way of making small things for around the house or for friends, since those are usually very quick projects, many of which are so specific or unique that they never get posted. 

Once I get a few of these knocked out, I have an idea kicking around to design a much larger printer enclosure, capable of holding four H2D's.  There are a couple paths I'm looking at for such a design, with one being a "high end" option, similar to my current enclosure, which has served me well so far.  The lower end option would probably use a steel shelf unit as a basis for the design, which would save a considerable amount of money, but sacrifice some stability (though it would probably be sufficiently robust, when back and side panels are added).

I've done a bit of preliminary design work to get an idea of prices and possible materials, but right now it is way out of my budget for a speculative project.  The "high end" version would look similar to my current enclosure, and use some IKEA components, but would of course be much larger.  But the cost in materials for that design is prohibitive, around $1500 due to the extrusions (which would eat up 2/3rd's of that amount).  I also don't own even one H2D, let alone four of them lol.  But It would be cool to have a big enclosure, since it would allow me to put some of my older printers back in service (and possibly even the Voron).  One of the problems I have with prototyping is that I have to wait hours to test one part, while I may have several that need to be tested as part of a design, so getting my older printers running could help with that.  I also eventually plan to get an H2D (or H2S if it is significantly less expensive), so will need an enclosure for it unless my X1C gets booted from it's home, the same way it previously booted the CR10S Pro :D    

I'm doing some recombobulation of my workspace, and decided to add some pegboards.  There seems to be a lot of IKEA Skådis hooks, so I decided to give that system a try.  I don't plan to post these (it would be too big a project to support), but if you are looking for something similar, these look pretty good.  I wanted something that did not require as many mounts or screws though, so designed one with printed interlocking parts (in green and blue in the pics).  The plan is to assemble the panels and then mount them with corner mounting adapters.  The plates take about 4h each to print, so this will take a while.  But I have already printed three of them, and the connections are really solid, even without glue (which I plan to add).

This is just a side project though, and the Bambu and Voron spares cases are still the top priority to get released (this next week however will be busy with unrelated stuff).

8/13/2025:  Quick update on this, the prints are half done and one of the two panels I need is completed.  The panel seems pretty strong with the connectors (which were superglued in place).  I'm sure it will hold the small tools I plan to install on it without a problem, but I would not use it for anything really heavy like large power tools.  

I was looking for a mounting solution, and none of the designs on MakerWorld or Printables really had everything I was looking for, so I just designed some from scratch.  I've printed a few as tests, and they seem to work well enough, though they can be a bit tricky to get the caps on the first couple times.  The design should allow me to just set up the panel with the connectors, then once it is level, I can drill the pilot holes.  Then I just remove the connectors and install the mounting screws in them and mount them to the wall.  The connectors are then aligned with the panel and the caps are screwed on to hold it.  That seems like a lot of steps, but it should be much simpler than printing templates and a bunch of measuring to locate the screw holes on the wall.  These wall connectors may also be useful to connect panels together, if they were combined with some simple brackets.

Here are some pics of the connectors installed on the Skådis board I printed.  It's mounted to the side of a bookcase with #6  3/4" wood screws.

But now I have another idea on how to make the design even simpler to use and print...

8/15/2025:  The new version of the mount is done and tested.  I swapped out the earlier version with these, and I think they will be much stronger, as well as simpler.  When I removed the old mounts to install the new version, a few broke, so I'm happy I didn't keep using them.  

I felt that the updated design for the mounts was worth posting, so I uploaded them to MakerWorld.  The design includes the basic mounts with a 6mm and 10mm height, as well as 3M Command Strip versions of the same.  I do not however plan to upload the design for the Skådis boards at this time, so these are just the mounts:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1701525-simple-ikea-skadis-wall-mounts#profileId-1804463

8/30/2025:  I was able to fully test the 3M Command Strip mount with a Skådis pegboard which I put up on a kitchen cabinet.  It seems to be working as planned, and I installed it by peeling back the tape on the Command strips about half way, with the backing folded so it stuck out from the side.  I then leveled it and stuck the entire board in place with the mounts (and Command Strips).  Then I pressed down the top mounts to set them in place, and pulled the backing paper out from the sides.  It worked pretty well and did not require a bunch of measuring or marking to preposition the mounts.

After I posted the new Gridfinity Watch Holder (with space for desiccant), I realized that I have quite a few gridfinity watch related designs.  I thought it would be good to just put together a post with everything and a little explanation of each design, and then maybe update it again when I add more related stuff.  

The watch cases and holders have been an evolution, which I will also try and show here.  I could probably take down some of the older designs, however each may have advantages for different folks, so I left them up.

In chronological order (at least as well as I can recall it), starting with the cases, and then followed by the watch holders:

1. ​Gridfinity 1x2 Watch Case Version 2.1 (12U)
​As is indicated by the version, this was not the first design for a 1x2 watch case.  This design started with something similar, but was updated with small fixes and improvements.  With the TPU liner installed, this watch case is approximately 46.5mm in width, where the crown of a watch would typically sit.  Unlike the case #3 (below), this one only has a TPU liner in the lid, not in the base.

2. ​Gridfinity 3x2 Watch Case (12U)
​This is a three watch case, and currently the largest version that has been released. The width of each watch slot is 45.9mm for the center, and 46.8mm for the outside slots, at the approximate location where the crown would sit (if the watch is placed in the case facing front).  There is a bit more room if the watch is faced backwards.

3. ​Gridfinity 1x2 Wide Watch Case Version 3.0
​ It is a wider version of the earlier 1x2 v2.1 watch case, to hold larger watches.  This updated version also has a modular latch option, and a full TPU liner (top and base).  The inside width of the case is approximately 52.7mm.

​Next up are the watch holders, which are designed to work with the cases:

​
1. Gridfinity Watch Stand (remix)
This was the original remix of   Luocheng Huang's Gridfinity Watch Stand, which I modified to fit my  Gridfinity Watch cases.

2. Gridfinity Watch Stand (2nd remix)
​I don't recall what the difference was between the 2nd and 1st remixes, but I think it had to do with fitting larger watches in the cases.  Ther are very similar otherwise.

3. Gridfinity Watch Stand v3.0 for Larger Watches
This is the 3rd remix, and was the first to use a TPU cover, which really helped to better hold watches with fixed length bracelets.

4. Gridfinity Watch Stand - Watches with Large Bands
This 4th remix was designed for larger watches, especially ones with thick bracelets.  It has the watch moved slightly forward, so watches with thick bands will fit the cases more easily.  It is otherwise very similar to the 3rd remix.

5. Gridfinity Watch Stand with Desiccant Holder
The current version (5th remix), which includes three sizes of TPU covers (for small, medium and large watches), as well as a new compartment for holding desiccant, located in the center of the holder.  Each type of holder also now has a "tab" version, with a couple bumps which help support heavy watches (these can be seen in the 2nd and 3rd pics below).  This version should work for most folks, except those who have watches with very chunky bands (which #4 was designed for).  I plan to update that design (#4 for extra large watches with chunky bands) soon. to also include the desiccant holder feature.

6. Gridfinty Watch Stand with Desiccant Holder for Extra Large Watches
The only size watch holder that was not updated in design #5 (with a desiccant holder), was the version shown in #4.  This design will update #4 to the latest model. The last pic shows this new holder in case #3.  The watch by the way is an ADDIESDIVE Men's Diver's Watch (claimed to be 1000m), with a Seiko NH35 movement.  I picked mine up a while ago on AliExpress, but it looks like Amazon has them for $7 bucks more (currently $150).  It's a good chunk of a watch, but also quite nice, with decent lume and a sapphire crystal.  

A relative needed some mounts for a couple  Tapo T110 door sensors .  One of them is going on a garage door (right side in the pic), and it needs a special mount, and the other is going on a regular door (left in the pic), but and needs a spacer for the base and a 90° mount for the magnet.  They provide some really chunky double sided tape with these, and for some reason, they designed them to be flush mounted, instead of having the sensor mounted to a door jam and the sensor on the door (or vice versa).  That works great for things like sliding windows, but not so great for doors.  To address that, I designed a mount for the magnet, which can install on a door frame, and rotates the sensor 90°, along with a spacer for the sensor base (which will mount to the door in this case).  I think if they had just made the magnets rectangular, instead of the fancy rounded shape, they could be mounted in either orientation.  These mounts should be much more secure though, and will use VHB tape, instead of the thick 4mm foam tape that TP-Link provides.  There will also be screw hole options on the door mount and spacer.  

These will be tested soon, since they are keen to get their sensors installed.  Once I get done with some prints for the Voron  Spares Case, these will be next (printed in PETG).

Update: I think with enough VHB tape, any such mounting solution could work.  The door mount went smoothly, but the garage door mount sheared off on the first attempt.  After looking at the problem for a minute, I just moved the mount up one level on the door, and added more VHB tape to the mount that sits in the rail (which holds the magnet).  The rail mount was made a bit oversized, so I could add tape to adjust it, and it turns out I did need to adjust it.  The mount for the sensor on the other hand, could have used a few mm more clearance on the sides where it slips over the beam on the garage door, since I was not able to fit any tape there.  It has enough tape, but I think if I do release the design, it will have just a tad more space so some tape can be put on the sides to hold it a bit better.  I could just run a screw through it, and there would be no question about it moving (and I may do that once I am sure it works without issues).

I also added another custom mount to metal gate, but that one is probably too custom a solution to be worth posting.  I'm gonna tweak the designs a bit, and then will post them.  They will however be posted as-is with a note that they may not work for every application, but may work for some at least.

7/16/2025:  These have been posted over on MakerWorld, with the STEP to make remixing easier.
​
​https://makerworld.com/en/models/1613261-tapo-t110-sensor-mounts-with-step

One of my favorite and most useful projects has been a Battery Case for the TS-80 Soldering Iron.  It is easy to just grab it and go if I need to solder up something, and since it runs on a battery, the cable hassle is minimal.  But the one drawback has been that the battery is limited, so soldering time is as well.  That is not a big deal for most projects, but for larger ones it can be a limiting factor.  Most USB-C irons these days can use higher power as well, even as much as 100W on USB-C.  So the design is a bit long in the tooth, and updating it has been an idea kicking around in the back of my head for a while.

Today, I was looking at power banks, and thought it would be cool to find one that used LiFePO4 cells, and could do 100W out.  Unfortunately the typical power banks still mostly use regular Lithium Ion tech.  However, I found the "Aferiy Nano 100" power station, which upon the initial appearance I thought would be pretty big still, but after seeing some actual photos, it got me thinking - maybe it could be the perfect power source for a new portable soldering iron kit? 

Something to consider though, is that almost all the reviews on Amazon are "Vine" reviews, so they should be taken with a good sized "grain of salt".  Looking for other reviews, I found one from a "Jazzy" Aussie, who covered using the Nano 100 with USB-C soldering irons - and had a similar idea for using it as part of a portable soldering setup.  Note that the linked YouTube review was also done with a free unit, though the reviewer seems to know her stuff, so I feel it is more trustworthy than the Amazon Vine reviews.  Based on the video, it looks like it can easily handle the soldering irons, and has power for other stuff as well (like a buck converter).  It also has the capability to be recharged by solar, which could be cool (though there is no mention of MPTT and it appears limited to 12-26v max solar input).

I went ahead and ordered one for $50, since it checks most boxes for a portable solder station power supply.  I plan to start working on a portable solder station design, which will be based on my 4x4 16 Bin12U Gridfinity Box For Stuff Ver 3.3 design, and will fit the Nano100, with room for other stuff.  The design may (or my not) be gridfinity compatible, that will depend on how much space is left.  In any case, I plan to make it modular, so trays can be installed or swapped to fit different irons.  There may be a buck converter as well, if I can fit it.  Even if the project fails to be worth the effort, I think the Nano100 could be a cool power source for a portable soldering setup.

This could be a big project though, and is just at the idea forming stage right now.  When I get the Nano 100, the first thing I will need to do is to model the unit, and then will work on the other parts.  I'm not sure if I will initially design it for my old TS-80 iron (outdated and no longer sold), the TS101 (I own the similar TS100), the Pinecil, or maybe some other USB-C iron like the FNIRSI HS-02 (which I do not currently own, but looks really interesting).  There may be others as well that I am not aware of, but I don't think I will be buying a bunch of irons for this project, so will probably start with the one's I have on hand.

Update 7/11/2025:  I emailed FNIRSI to ask if they may have 3D models available for the HS-02A soldering iron.  If they will provide a model, I plan to design a holder for that iron to be used with this case.  I will probably pick up the HS-02A eventually, since it looks like a really good match for this design (the Nano 100 power station will output 100W (20V@5A)), but right now it's not quite in the budget.  The design will be modular enough however, that if I decide to add support for the HS-02A later (and could make a 3D model of it to use), it should be possible.

The Nano 100 power station also arrived, and I was able to see how well it may fit the case (which will be redesigned around it, but I was just getting an idea of the layout).  It's quite small for a power station (reminds me of an alarm clock lol), and the retracting USB cable is quite nice as well.  The Nano 100 is about as tall as a 12U gridfinity bin, but is a bit taller in practical use, since it is not gridfinity shaped lol.  The lid on the 4x4 gridfnity case therefore does not close, but it is close enough that I may be able to make the solder station case the same size, or possibly a mm to two taller.  In any case, it should have no problem being printed on an Ender3 or larger printer (the footprint is 196x214mm).  

There should also be plenty of room for the soldering iron, some supplies, and possibly something else (like a small USB powered fume extractor fan and a light).

Update 7/12/2025:  I think asking FNIRSI for something as odd as a 3D model of their product was a long shot at best.  I have not heard back from them (though it has only been 2 days so I still may).  But while researching the FNIRSI HS-02A, I found out about the Alientek T80P, which is much closer in appearance to my TS-80, but much more capable.  The T80P is a 100W iron with very positive reviews (really they both do), and is a bit more compact than the HS-02A.  Importantly, it was also less expensive than the HS-02A, which pushed me to bite the bullet, and order one.  I think I will base the design off the T80P and the Nano 100, possibly with a buck power supply and a small solder fume filter fan.  I have some other ideas kicking around for this design as well, but I think I may be trying to stuff too much into this case (we will see lol).    

Update 7/26/2025:  I received the Alientek T80P and it is very impressive.  It seems to work well with the Nano 100 

I saw a make of my  Bambu X1C Case  today, and noticed that the builder had made bins to replace some of the hotend modules in the X1C/P1 Spares Case.  It looked like a really cool idea, and was something I'd added as an option to the H2D spares case, but never circled back to do something similar on the X1C/P1 Case - until now.  Thanks to the inspiration of seeing the build, I took some time today and designed some bins.  These bins will be backwards compatible with the Bambu X1C/P1 Spares Case, and will use the same latch mechanism as the other bins in the case.  

I'm also planning to add some STEP models of remixable blank bins, so people can modify the modules if they want to make something more custom.  The cases will still be under the standard digital license, but the blanks which fit the bin slots will be remixable.  

I'm not sure if I will test these myself though, since I don't really need them.  I may release them as a stand alone model with the caveat that they are untested, if I do not run them to test myself.  Since they are based on the same bin design as the original hotend holder for the case, and the doors are a modification of existing designs which I have made and tested, I don't expect any problems with them.

Update 7/12/2025:  Thanks to Lexam over on MakerWorld for the idea for the side bins, and for running a test print of one of the prototypes.  Thanks to the feedback and collaboration on the bin module designs, the bins are ready.  I plan to release them soon, but while working on the bins, I decided to add some additional updates to the case design.  The first will be an update to the gasket (which is optional).  The updated design will have a new profile that may help with sealing.  The other update is an option to integrate an Apple AirTag into the case.  It will be installed in the otherwise unused space below the inside case label (with two MicroSD card slots).  Due to these updates, and the work required to update the description, I plan to release everything together, and that should give the design a bump to v3.2.  However if I run into issues with the gasket design, I may just release the bin modules first, and the other stuff will wait till any problems are ironed out.  

I'm also working on a more generic spares case, based on the X1/P1 and H2D Spares cases.  The generic case will be test printed as a Voron spares case, but it can easily be used for just about any printer.  I plan to release that design with no logos, or with the Voron logos.

Update 7/13/2025:  The X1C case update is still in progress, but since I have not yet test printed the changes, I decided to add a design to the case (which will be optional).  The design is slightly embossed, so it can be printed in 2 to 4 colors, and is only 3 layers deep, which should help, since a prime tower is not possible on this print (due to the size of the parts).  These should take somewhere around 8h to print in multicolor.

Update 7/21/2025:  The design done and I'm just fine tuning a few things and adjusting the profile.  The updated gasket design seems to work better than the current design, but it is still not perfect and after a 10 second dunking, it allowed a few drops of water into the case (pics show the inside, after dunking about 9" below the surface in a pool).  It should be fine against some splashes though.  After some discussions with another designer about the case, and testing the new gasket, I'm trying a tighter latch as well, which may seal tighter.  The goal however is not a waterproof seal, since that is very difficult with FDM, but water resistance would be nice.  Once I'm happy with everything, I will post it up.

Update 7/26/2025:  I'm still working on this, but the scope of the updates has gotten a bit bigger.  I completely reworked the hotend holders and am now testing that update.  I also added and tested some 0.2mm tighter latches with both the updated gasket design and the non-gasket lids.  Everything so far has worked, and once I get the new hotend bins tested, I will get this design posted over on MakerWorld.  

7/30/2025:  I found a potential problem with the new gasket design, so reworked it (again), and am running another test print.  I'm gonna have so many printer cases, I may need to buy more printers to go with them :D  Really though, I may just need to find some good homes for some of them, since I really will have no use for 'em.

I've also completely re-worked the hotend bins, and ran some tests of those.  I did see a small problem with that design as well, but I'm not sure if it was the print or something else.  I plan to run another set to be sure, before I decide what to do with them.  

I'm hoping for this project to be done this week, but I've missed my deadlines before so I'm just gonna say that it will be done when it's ready (which will hopefully be this week).

8/2/2025:  The small problem I mentioned previously (with the hot end bins), is something that is indeed pretty small - so small I had never noticed it till now.  It is related to the way the bin modules are secured with screws on one side.  I noticed a very slight rocking in the smaller bin, when it is screwed down.  To fix that, I tried a number of things, and got the rocking down to almost zero, but I'm not sure if that fix will work for everyone, so I'm gonna try something more extreme.  I am working on a clean slate re-working of the bin design and the base of the case, which has the unfortunate downside of breaking backwards compatibility for the base and bins.  I do however plan to update all the bins to the new design, so nothing will be lost going forward.  I'm gonna have to reprint another case though, to test everything out, along with several more bins.  I would rather waste some filament on my end though, than see folks run a long print and have problems.  I think this will take a bit longer than expected (probably another week).

8/5/2025: I "think" that the final design is done, and am printing (hopefully) the last prototype base to test it.  There are a number of small optimizations with this update, and they are seemingly simple changes, but with 3D printing the devil is in the details.  My bucket of failed prototypes runneth over, but I hope that all the testing will save some headaches later (and keep folks from wasting even more plastic than I have lol).  Some of the changes were small fractions of a mm differences, and others were more considerable (like the gasket and bin designs).  The new pattern option is something I really feel is a cool feature as well, and even though it takes a bit longer, I'm using it on this prototype as well.  The profile name shows v3.1, however this will be a v4.0 update to the case, since so many changes were made to the design, that it is no longer backwards compatible for many of the key parts. 

Once the Bambu case design is done and the changes are fixed in place, I plan to update the new Voron case with the same changes.  The H2D spares case and my other similar cases will probably get similar updates in the future as well (but I need to get back to other projects before I can update those designs with the same changes).  Once an update is finalized for one case, they are generally quick to roll out to the other similar cases, but even so, the testing and prototyping of the changes for the other cases are what will take the bulk of the time to get done.  I also don't have much use for so many of these cases, so I need to figure out what to do with all the successful prototypes.

8/19/2025:  I finally got the last of the test prints done, and the last parts tested for fit, and everything seems to work well.  So today I spent a couple hours polishing up the 3mf profile (which has 25 plates).  This is a big job due to all the parts which have changes, and many of which need to be exported in a way that they maintain their orientation (which makes painting much simpler). 

Now I have to write the whole thing up, and get it posted.  I'm thinking about removing the older files, since they are probably just causing clutter, and possibly confusion.  I will also move the changelog to a separate webpage for the same reason.  My goal will be to make the description less daunting, with more a more concise build guide that will fit in the description.  This is my least favorite part lol.

The image below shows the print profile from Bambu Studio, with the plates which share parts color coded together.  The color codes are not the best, but there will also be a guide with what the options are, and the plate numbers required to make them.  For example, to make a lid with a gasket, the plates 2 (or 22 depending on which pattern is needed), and plates 6 and 7 are required.  The reason why I said plate 2 or 22 is because there will be 2 design patterns available, with one pattern being common to plates 1 through 4 and a second pattern on plates 21 through 24.  The two design options are not seen in the image, since they are on the outside of the cases, but they are similar to what's pictured below.

8/27/2025:  It's finally done, you can find the version 4.0 models over on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1738817-bambu-labs-x1-p1-spare-parts-case-version-4-0#profileId-1847650

For all the Dummy 13 fans out there, here's a preview of a design for a "Dummy 13 Dino Safari Pack", which I plan to post in the next week.  It's taken a small bucket full of prototypes to get things just right, but I'm printing what I hope will be the final version now.  I plan to enter it in the "Dino Safari" contest when it's ready.  

The friendly dino buddy in the pics is IDMyron's "BITING T-REX (MULTIPART PRINT)"

Update 7/11/2025:  The Dummy 13 Dino Safari Pack is now uploaded to MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1595386-dummy-13-dino-safari-kit-card#profileId-1680655

Summertime is here, and with it, a place to set down a cold drink when it's possible to actually enjoy the weather.  Unfortunately the 2 person patio swing chair I sat down in, did not have anywhere to put a drink.  That of course will not do, and with the magic of 3D printing, it won't have to.  This cupholder was designed to fit some of my larger beverage containers and I found it works well with insulated coffee cups too.  It is a bit of a bespoke design, being designed specifically for one swing, however it may be that it could fit others. It was designed to clamp a 51mm diameter round post, which is angled at 66°.  I made a few changes since I made the right side cupholder, with a new stepped design to better hold smaller cups, which is show in the CAD rendering.  I will post some pics of the updated design, when it is printed and installed.  The print shown was done with Aceaddity Gray PETG since it will remain outside, and it uses (3) M3x10mm SHCS, (3) M3x20mm SHCS and (6) M3 nuts.  I probably should have used some M3 washers as well, and will swap some in when I install the other side cupholder.  I ran out of the Aceaddity PETG though, so the left side will be done using Kingroon Gray PETG.

Update 7/2/2025:  Somehow I printed two for the same side, so I just installed the 2nd on the back post (other side).  The design has been slightly changed to allow cups with handles to set in the holder from either side.  The opening for the handle on the cupholder has also been narrowed down to about 19mm wide at the base (it opens up as it gets higher on the holder to about 33mm).  I will probably print one more cupholder to test the latest changes, but at least I can use all of them (with three on the swing).

Update 7/3/2025:  The "final" version of the cupholder is done, and I think it fixes all the issues I had with the earlier type.  Primarily, it has an additional slot for a handle and the slots are narrower.  I also printed the correct (left) side this time, so now the swing has 3 cupholders, even though it seats 2 people.  That's fine though, since there are other outdoor chairs near it, so I'm sure the 3rd cupholder will get some use.  

The models have been uploaded to MakerWorld, and you can find them here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1573771-outdoor-patio-swing-chair-rocker-cupholder

Unfortunately, a relative's GE dryer stopped heating, though it was still spinning and everything else seemed to work.  There was just no heat on any of the settings.  Since I'm the guy in the family with a multimeter, and a pretty extensive vocabulary of curse words, it fell upon me to look at it.  I am by no means an expert or electrician, unless getting electrocuted a couple times counts for work experience.  So I have to say that this is not a how-to or guide.  I do not recommend trying anything like what I will describe here, unless you know what you are doing (and if you know what you are doing you probably wouldn't want to lol).  Regardless, working on appliances is it is at your own risk, and there could be errors here in my understanding or recollection of how I worked through this problem - but I will do my best.  Hiring a pro to fix the dryer would have been the smart route, though my family is more known for being "frugal" than smart.  If you do try and work on one of these dryers though, I suggest wearing some gloves, there are way too damn many sharp edges inside these things.

Once I confirmed that there was no heat on any setting, and checked the outlet for 240VAC. I unplugged the dryer and pulled the front, top and drum off the dryer.  Fortunately, behind the mainboard there was a crude schematic with some helpful troubleshooting steps.  I would not even write this up, if the basic steps mentioned on the doc had worked, and really they probably would have if I did not really want to be extra special sure of the problem before ordering a part.  

Since the issue was with the heater, I first checked the resistance across both the inner and outer coils of the heater (with no power connected of course).  According to the doc, it said those should measure 19.2ohms, and I was getting about that, so the heater seemed OK. 

I then took a closer look at the schematic and noted that the mainboard runs off the L1 side, and the L2 side (to boost the heater to 240VAC) is connected only to the output side of the heater coil, which runs through a centrifugal switch attached to the motor shaft.  So 90% of the fun happens on the L1 side, which includes the (dumb) thermostats, the biased thermostats and of course the main board.  I believe that the dumb (2 wire) thermostats are a safety feature designed to trip and cut power if they sense unsafe temps.  This can occur if lint builds up in the air intake from the dryer drum, or there is some other problem related to excessive heating.  I believe the "biased" thermostats are also used to regulate the temp of the dryer by cutting off the heating coils when the dryer has reached it's set temp, and then allowing the coils to come back one at a lower temp, to heat back up during a drying cycle.  One of the biased thermostats is on the intake for the exhaust duct from the dryer drum, and it can also be affected by lint build up in the front panel ductwork. That is just my assumption based on what makes sense though.

I found a bit of lint in the front ductwork so cleaned that out, but it was not the issue.  Since the dryer was apart, it was a good time to clean all the old lint out, and I even found some in the back of the drum behind the heat shield, which I spent about 10 minutes vacuuming out.  Side note, the Kobalt portable vacuum is a really handy battery powered wet/dry vac for stuff like this.  It has more power than my cordless Dyson by a mile.

So back to the fun.  I then went through and checked each of the "dumb" safety thermostats, which have 2 wires, and are located on each side of the top of the heater housing (circled in green and aqua blue in the image below).  At room temp, according to the doc I found, these should conduct normally, so I measured them for continuity and also for resistance - they seemed OK.  I don't think it is necessary in this case, but one leg of the thermostat could be disconnected to be really sure of the readings.  All testing was done with no power connected.    

Next I checked the two biased thermostats.  These are like the dumb thermostats, but have an additional 2 wires which (as far as I understand it), serve to heat a resistance wire that warms up and "biases" the thermostat.  The resistance wire has a resistance of 9KOhms according to the doc sheet.  I think the point of using biased thermistors is to allow for some adjustment of the trigger point for the thermostat (and use them a bit like a switch).  Not important to the problem with this dryer, but the wires connected to the "bias" elements (9k resistors) on these biased thermostats, are individually controlled by relays on the board.  One of these biased thermostats is located on the top left of the heater housing (circled in pink and a bit off the image).  This one is in series with the blue (outer coil) wire going to the heater, at the bottom left of the image below (circled in dark blue).  The other biased thermostat is located on the front blower intake from the drum (via the front door panel), and pictured with the readings I tested (center pic below).  To test these biased thermostats, one side of each connection needs to be removed (or both can be removed).  All testing was done with no power connected.  They both tested OK.

So, the coil has the correct resistance (about 20 Ohms on the outer and inner coils), and the thermostats tested OK. 

There are a few more switches to check from here though.  The first is a switch on the drum pully tensioner. It is located on the left side of the dryer, near the floor pan along the side of the motor.  It just closes when the tensioner pulley is tensioning the belt.  Since the drum is off, and the tensioner switch is open, I just moved the tensioner pulley to actuate the switch and checked it with my meter (resistance was good).  Sorry no pics of that switch.  It should be easy to check though, since it makes a nice click when it is actuated.  

Recall that most of the fun happens on the L1 side (which powers the board).  But the L2 side does have a switch in series that needs to be checked.  It is a centrifugal switch attached to the motor, and it is the final say on if the heater is allowed to turn on or not.  In the schematic, this is drawn as if it is a separate switch from the rest of the motor switches, but the dashed line indicates it is a "ganged" switch.  That means it is part of the switches within the centrifugal motor switch, and is thrown along with another switch (at the same time).  This switch was tested without power (everything unplugged).  The switch was manually operated by pushing a brown plastic disc which goes around the front of the motor shaft, back towards the coils of the motor (see the first pic below).  When activated, the centrifugal switch connects the purple wire (circled in dark purple in the main image of the heater above), with the black L2 line going back to the wall power inlet.  This is a bit tricky to access, so I tested the continuity of the switch and it's resistance by removing the plug to the motor and clipping test leads from my meter to the prongs on the motor, which corresponded with the purple and black wires which the centrifugal switch, switches.  The images are messy, but space was tight.  The center pic below shows how I connected my test leads to the prongs on the motor switch.

As a side note, it is also possible to test this centrifugal switch by connecting a test lead to the L2 side of the power inlet, and the other where the purple wire connects to the lower left side terminal of the heater coils - again with all power disconnected.  I tried that as well, but it takes some long leads to reach everything testing that way.  The switch still has to be manually activated to test, since it normally only triggers when the motor is spinning at normal speed.  

I was happy to find that the centrifugal switch was not the problem, since replacing it appears to require swapping the whole motor.  Things were looking more and more like it has to be the board.

So with that foreshadowing out of the way, the next thing I checked is the board, which is where things get a bit tricky.  In hindsight, I could have just stopped here and tried a new board. However all the stuff I'm posting here is just the highlights of several long hours of investigating the problem, punctuated by swapping meters, test leads, some sacrificial bloodletting, searching for a pair of gloves, and a good deal of cursing.  In any case, I decided that I would just do it live.  Just like I don't recommend anything from Billy-O, I don't recommend live testing either, and it is of course something that one has to understand and accept the risks of doing.  I won't go into full details of what I tested here, since I again do not recommend it, but I first measured AC voltage across the heater coil with it connected (and on), and I was seeing almost no voltage drop (makes sense as it is not heating).  I then tested each side of the heater coil to ground and found about 120VAC on each side.  Turns out this was mostly coming from the purple wire (L2) side of the 240VAC wall power - and not the board side.  

Of course I didn't get pics, but the smoking gun that the problem was the main board, was found when (with all power disconnected) I removed all the wires from the heater coil (the blue and gray on the lower left, and the purple on the lower right). I then covered all the exposed wire connectors with black electrical tape and secured them where possible so they would not flap around.  Then I clipped one of my insulated test leads to the purple wire (without the coil connected), and the other lead to ground.  After checking things a few times, and with my meter set to measure AC voltage, I plugged in the dryer and turned on the heater.  Once the motor spun up and the centrifugal switch clicked over, I measured the voltage drop to ground between the purple (L2 side wire) to ground - it was close to 120VAC.  I powered everything off, unplugged and reset to test between the blue (L1 side wire back to the mainboard) and ground.  When I plugged in and powered on the heater, it showed just a few volts (around 12VAC).  It should have been measuring around 120VAC there as well (from L1).  Since it was not, it indicated that the board is not supplying the full power (120VAC) to the L1 side of the heater coil (via the blue or gray wires on the lower left side of the coils).  I then powered off the dryer and unplugged it, reconnected the coil wires, and waited a week for a new board, which I found on ebay for $20.

The board swap went well, but the connectors are really tough to remove (yet oddly easy to install).  I suspect the problem with my board was a component called an NTC (negative temperature coefficient).  My understanding is that these small disk shaped parts with 2 wires are used to limit inrush current.  They are not typically used on a resistive load, but I guess they must help even in this case.  To test that theory however, I would need to remove the old NTC from the board and test it by trying to heat it up and measure the resistance.  For now I will just leave it as my suspicion, since I tested that the relays were working, and there is not much else in series with the heating coils that could cause a limitation on voltage or current.

Below are some pics from the board swap.  I labeled each wire, since some of the wires are very close in color and easy to mix up.  There are black, brown and black with white stripe wires, and they all get confusing without labels.  There is also a plug on the board for "feature select" (see the green arrow below), and that needs to be moved from the old to new board.  Finally, before connecting anything to the new board, I checked that the "normal/flash" switch on the left side (right side of the pic) was set to "normal" (circled in red below).  I don't know what would happen if it were powered up with that switch in the "flash" position, but I'm guessing it could be bad (may wipe the program for the MCU on the board).

Of course, even after getting it running again, that could not just be the end of the job.  While I was taking apart the dryer, I found that the front plastic bearing pads (and some of the plastic molding which holds them) was worn through.  This was causing squeaking.  I ordered a kit with genuine GE parts, including the front cover, the bearing pads (4), a new felt strip which is also a bit of a bearing for the lower part of the front of the drum, and a new rubber drive belt.  It was a pretty decent deal for around $27 to keep it running without squeaking, and was simple to swap.  The only question I had when installing it was the orientation of the plastic bearing pads.  They provide 2 clear pads and 2 dark gray pads.  From what I had seen online, the gray ones go on top, with the plastic ones to the side.  The new felt liner goes around the outside of the lower front panel drum guide, and just sort'a rolls into place, with the excess material wrapped around the edge and folded down.

While working on the door, I also noticed that one of the door connectors had come unplugged (circled in green). 

After that it was just putting humpty dryer back together again, which was a bit of a pain.  The drum is hard to get aligned since the center bearing pin has to be inserted blind.  It can help to remove the screws between the sides and the lower frame so the sides can be flexed out just a bit when installing the drum.  Just don't forget to put them back like I did lol.  The other issue is the belt, which for some reason kept rolling and getting twisted when I tried to reset the idler pulley, but after the third try I got it together without a twist.  

I hope it's done for now.  I noted that there is a rubbing sound, which I think is from the new felt liner, and may take some time to seat in and quiet down, but no squeaking.  And most importantly it heats up.  It has not been run through a full cycle of laundry yet though, so if it has more problems I will update here. 

Update 7/3/2025:  So far, so good.  There appears to be a slightly different wrinkle guard program on the new board however, since it runs for less time than the old one, but other than that it is working OK (so far).  There is an "option plug" which was moved from the old to the new board, which tells the board which model it is working with, so it seems the change is just a difference in the firmware.  The board is the identical model number as the older one.