Update 10/8/2022: Printed the base and it looks good, the button operation works well so I think it should be good (but I still need to print the bezel).
The LCD Case Mod by "Spaghetti-Bolognese" on Github adds a small button over the E-stop button (among other things). It looks like the Voron design has changed a bit since that was made however, since the screen now has a bezel which covers the screws. I wanted the button however, so I remixed the model and used the Voron R2.4 STEP files to make two versions. One fully covers the scree bezel (which was a bit of a hack), and another version is pretty much stock, aside from the button. Both will require some more supports, and I will not post them until I can test the files. I plan to print and use the fully covered screen version since I have zapped too many things to count, and previously had to replace the screen on my delta due to zapping the metal screen bezel.
Update 10/8/2022: Printed the base and it looks good, the button operation works well so I think it should be good (but I still need to print the bezel).
I made a change to the version which covers the metal bezel, it will now print flat, as nature intended. I also made a slight adjustment to the location of the button which will require reprinting the part shown above... unfortunately I'm used to that sort of thing though.
I finished the design and have it printed, but it is not yet uploaded.
This started out like a simple idea and has turned into a project. Turns out that cramming all the stuff I want to cram in this thing is much harder than I thought. The idea of this is to be able to extend the LED's, the MicroSD and a couple USB 3.0 ports from the Pi to the front panel on the Voron skirt. I plan to backlight the Raspberry Pi logo, the USB ports, and the status LED's using some "sequin" LED's designed for the Adafruit Lilly Pad. I had earlier thought about backlighting the SD card symbol but I thought it would not really add much. Right now all the pretty stuff is done, and I have modeled how the LED's can be attached (they will be glued into some form fitting pockets), but figuring out how the insert will go into the skirt part and not get pulled out or pushed in, is a problem I have yet to solve. I could just glue it in I guess, but I would like to have some screws as well (if I can figure out where the screws could go). For now, here are some pics on the progress (the large pic is the current status, the other two were prior versions). These all look pretty much the same, since most of the work has been done under the hood.
Update 10/7/2022: I decided to make the insert clip into the "frame" of the skirt. It will have six clips so hopefully it will be secure. I am now just waiting on parts to get the final dimensions and probably spend way to much time adjusting the model.
Voron 2.4 R2 Build Log
I made a new page to keep all my Voron stuff together, you can find it here.
CR10S Pro Scraps Bucket Is Posted
The small debris which my printer creates was getting out of hand. I normally dyson out my enclosure after a print to clean up the scraps, but thought a small bucket may be a simpler solution. I designed this while working on the belted z remix, and it just sticks on the side of the CR10S Pro using five 12x3 cylinder magnets, and it prints without supports. The magnets are held in using some superglue (I use Gorilla Superglue Gel) and I plan to glue the frame to the bucket on mine. I made one minor change between my printed part and the model posted to printables, which is to lower the height of the bucket by 1.6mm since I found that mine was just a bit too tall (my printer uses the stock feet). If the printer is raised or uses non-stock feet, it may be necessary to add something to the base or you can adjust the model since I will include the STEP file. This was printed using eSun Fire Engine Red PETG and Duramic 3D Black PETG. You can find the STL and STEP files here:
I use Weebly to host this site (which is free so no complaints), and they are switching over to Square (which bought them in 2018). I received an email asking me to create an account on Square, even though I did that weeks ago (yet still keep getting the emails). I also linked the site to square weeks ago, but cannot see anywhere to manage it from Square. I think I have done what was asked to keep the site going in the move to Square but am not 100% sure. I've looked through the FAQ's on how to check if the site was moved over, but anything mentioned does not seem to correspond to what I see on the dashboards. It does however look like going forward, or possibly even with the transition to Square, the blog may go "bye bye" or become unusable for me, since Square does not seem to be a blogging platform (they are e-sales). I cannot be sure though, since I cannot make heads or tails of exactly how it may or may not work with the move to square. In any case, I backed up the site, but if it does get turned into mashed potatoes with the move, I will try and get the site back up somewhere, but likely will not be rebuilding it as it was (I will probably need to move it to a blogging friendly platform).
If the worst happens, I won't be blaming Weebly though (aside from poorly explaining what should be expected). It will have been a long run with them, and they have been excellent, in fact if this is one of the last posts, let it live somewhere in the Internets as a "thank you to Weebly for hosting this Stoopid site for this long!" And thank you to anyone visiting, for stopping by to see what stoopid stuff is new. If you see this domain go dark for a while, it won't be for long since I will then be looking for a new home, and will try and get at least some of the content back up somewhere. But please be patient, there are a number of things going on, and I have a few projects as well (but the blog is important to me, so I will try and revive it somewhere if it goes away). The domain will not change regardless, it will remain as www.mystoopidstuff.com. Thanks again and Good Luck with all your projects!
3D Printing Deals
I just picked up some PLA for 10 bucks thanks to Reddit user Pashag3g and PLAFantastic on Twitter. I've taken advantage of several deals in the past, and picked up some cheap filament and parts for my printers, so I thought it would be helpful to post some links to the sites I check every now and then for deals. I added these to the Links and 3D Printing Tips sections as well:
I bought a "Zeberoxyz Red Supporting Rod Set" (616mm version) for my CR10S Pro from Amazon a few day ago, and got it set up last night. It's a very nice kit, and went together easily. The only things I added were four M3 washers for the metal brackets that mount under the front of the printer (just my preference to use washers with the screws but it's not required). The assembly is straightforward, just assemble the rods, mount the brackets and then mount the rods. On the CR10S Pro, the top mounts have to stick out about 5mm from the edge of the 2020 extrusions to remain in line with the lower mounts, but that does not seem critical. I'd suggest not trying to put much tension or compression in the rods, to avoid racking the frame since these are just additional support. Unfortunately during the install I found a pre-existing issue with the squareness of the frame on my CR10S Pro, which I will need to deal with when set up the z-belt mod on my printer. Additionally, I found that, with this kit installed, I have an interference issue with my custom hydra remixed hot end (but there would not have been any problem if I were using the stock hot end). I will need to think over the best way to re-design my hot end mount, but it should not be too difficult.
Overall though, for a stock CR10S pro, I think something like this support rod kit is a great idea. It looks like Creality is including this same type of bracing on their CR10 V3, and I have seen it on other large printers as well. If you are running a custom hot end though (not stock), it would be worth checking for possible interference issues first.
I just received the kit of functional printed parts for the Voron 2.4 R2, from Maker Panda on AliExpress. I bought these around the time I bought the Voron kit, but there was a lead time since they had to be printed. The customer support was excellent and they accommodated an early change I requested with no problems (changed the hot end type to a Rapido). Some of the pics show the Rapido set in the Stealthburner mount to test the fit (which is perfect). I probably could not print parts this nice in ABS on my printers since even though my CR10S pro is enclosed, it does not warm up that much inside the enclosure. I also really dislike printing ABS, and getting the parts will save a lot of time. There are of course some minor cosmetic issues which are just things like zits or inconsistent flow showing up here and there, but the pictures don't do the parts justice really. In person they look great and feel well made. They are also well organized with labels showing what's in each bag, and they were packed with a great amount of care so nothing got damaged. I did not get anything for posting this, just putting info out there. I plan to update this once I start to assemble the printer.
Testing a DEPSTECH Endoscope Camera (1944P) with Octoprint (and a Raspberry Pi 4)
I recently received a DEPSTECH Endoscope Camera 1944P which I had ordered from AliExpress several weeks ago. I want to disassemble the camera, and see if it can be better integrated as a nozzle camera for my printer. But before I start hacking away, I thought I should get a baseline to see if and how it works. It seems to be a mixed bag so far though, the camera seems to cut out at the slightest movement and I have had the screen blank out multiple times (edit: see updates below, this seems to be an issue with the Pi). That sucks because the image quality is pretty good, and I could see this being a good candidate for a nozzle camera. I'm still testing it though, and will have to try it on another device to make sure the issues are related to the Pi.
But here is a bit of how I set it up and some pics of it in action. Pardon the upside down shots of the nozzle, I did not mount it, just had it sitting next to the nozzle and the point was just to check the resolution and image quality.
To set up the cam, you can refer to this post, which goes into more depth on multicam setup, but in a nutshell:
1. First connect the camera to the USB port where it will be plugged in and boot the Pi. If you already have a camera configured, check out the multicam setup info from the Octoprint docs, or my prior post linked above.
2. I already had a file named webcam2.txt set up (which is required for multicam) and it lives here:
3. I ran "ls /dev/v4l/by-id/" to first get the long name (what I would call it) for the endoscope camera, which is:
4. Next I checked to see what formats are supported by the camera, I tried 1080P at 30fps and 1944P at 25fps to test with "v4l2-ctl --list-formats-ext":
Now I had the info to update the /boot/octopi.conf.d/webcam2.txt which again is for the 2nd camera (multicam) and a file I had to previously create. I just commented out the config for my other endoscope camera (by placing a "#" before the line to ignore), and set up the new one on the next line down (circled in green in the pic below). I first tried 1080P at 30fps:
And then I tested it using 1944P at 25fps by re-editing the same file (/boot/octopi.conf.d/webcam2.txt). Should also note that in order for the changes to take effect first the file must be saved and after that the webcamd service needs to be restarted, or the Pi can be rebooted. For some reason restarting the service seemed to hang on my Pi so I rebooted it, and this again could be part of my problems with stability. I will probably try a fresh image and rebuild things when I get some free time.
The image quality is pretty decent and the autofocus seems to work. The test image is not the best composition, but again this is a quick test and I already have some issues with stability I need to look into further. The Pi's CPU seems to be running OK and the temp is around 41.8°C which I "think" is normal. The image however seems to lock up (see below pic), and I have to restart the stream to get it back, which could be either the Pi or the camera. I also noticed that when I was working on the camera to position it, the stream would drop more frequently. It is also very likely though that the issue is related to power, so I will also need to try a more robust power supply (my Pi complains of undervoltage but the reasons why I have not fixed that in the Pi's normal location is another story).
So the endoscope does what it says and the image quality seems good. The issues with it locking up again may be my Pi or related to power, so I need to test further. However I did not have issues though with my current cameras (two actually), and for testing this, I was only running the new Depstech endoscope camera. I hope I can resolve this and will update what I find. (Edit, I suspect the Pi is the issue, see the last update below).
UPDATE 9/17/2022: I still need to test this camera on another device to see if the cut outs are due to the camera or the host it was connected to. However last night I ordered this camera, which I think could be used as a nozzle camera, and it has some benefits over the endoscope types of cameras for mounting and cooling. The problem however may be (edit) the focal length, but it may be that a small lens could be used to get a close view so I am also gonna order some cheap lenses to test it with. If it works I will post some updated designs and may try to work the camera into the stealthburner (that is the ultimate goal at least), but I will first try it out on the CR10S Pro.
UPDATE 10/7/2022: I did not test the endoscope camera on another device, but I have since experienced this same issue with another camera on the Pi, so I suspect the issue is with the Pi. I found this post on the Octoprint Community Forum and it looks like something I should try. I will test it again if the issue can be resolved on the Pi.
UPDATED 10/8/2022: Well this is strange, but I have been testing the other camera I have (OV5640), which has also been locking up. I tried changing "type=forking" to "type=simple" but that had the effect of causing webcamd to reset every few seconds. I then found this post by Foosel (Octoprint creator) and it says that the type should be "simple", however (again) with "simple" webcamd restarts constantly. So the behavior I am seeing appears to be opposite what was reported in the linked thread (simple causes webcamd to restart constantly and forked seems to be stable, but locks up). I may end up re-imaging the pi with the latest version (I am running 1.8.4 currently on this pi). In any case, the issues with the locking up on the cameras seems to be related to the Pi/Octoprint and not something wrong with the cameras.
That is a long title, and it may not be the best. Anyway, this thing is a filament runout sensory which should work with a stock CR10S (and maybe others?). The design uses a pair of PC4-M10 couplers with the output side of the sensor having a quick disconnect which can be unscrewed. The reason for the quick disconnect is to be able to get access to the filament to assist with unloading a direct drive extruder (it's not always necessary but sometimes it can help to have access to the filament closer to the hot end on a direct drive).
Why unscrew the coupler instead of just releasing the Bowden from the coupler? For one, the couplers generally suck, and I have had more than one that held onto a Bowden tube and would not release or not without difficulty. The other reason is that eventually the tube will get chewed up if it is removed too often.
To design this reminx, I used the "Creality CR-10S Ultimate Filament Run Out censor With Z Axis Cable Guide" by 3Deddy at Thingiverse, along with my Bowden coupler. My plan is to use it with my CR10S Pro which I believe uses the same filament sensor as the CR10S (but I have to verify this when I get some time and my printer is free). It looks like Creality uses the same sensor for different printers so I expect it will work fine, and if not I can modify it to work. I have printed a version of this, and then went back and optimized it a bit to use fewer supports (but there will still be supports needed). This version will be mountable on a 2020 extrusion using some M3x25mm cap head screws. If it works I will post it at either Thingiverse or Printables.
Updated 9/14/2022 to remove "PC4-01" and add the correct type of coupler, which is "PC4-M10" (with a link to a product).
Welcome to my Stoopid corner of teh Internet. It's mostly gonna be 3D printing stuff, but I also post some recipes, projects, and the occasional rant here as well. More Stoopid stuff is updated regularly.