I have an older model Cyberpower 1000PFCLCD, which does not have any front USB ports, and no tilting display.  About a month ago, it was plugged in during a power outage, and when power was restored, the display stopped working.  I could get only a beep from the power button, but no other signs of life on the unit.  The power button, which is normally illuminated, was not lighting up, and none of the buttons appeared to be working either.  I tried leaving it plugged in for half a day with nothing connected (to charge the battery), but that did not help, so I swapped it out for another UPS that I had, until I could get back to check it closer.  Today, I had some time so I tested the voltage of the single 12V battery, and it was 12.8V.

​I decided to try connecting it to a PC using the Cyberpower PowerPanel Personal software to see if I could get any response from the UPS that way.  I had to dig up an old USB A/B (printer) cable to connect it, but once hooked up, the UPS was detected, and indicated that everything was OK... But even more strange, when I connected it up, the panel and buttons started working again.  I unplugged the USB cable from the PC, and toggled the display button and it was working normally after that, and the power button is also illuminated again.  So it's odd, but I thought I'd post it here in case it may help somebody with a similar issue.

While I had it connected up to the PC, I also updated the firmware and ran the self-test, which passed.

This is not a deals site, but I found a really good deal thanks to PlasticFantasticDeals.com, and wanted to pass it along since I find using these USB microscopes really handy for soldering work.  My eyes are not what they used to be, and having a USB scope to inspect things is super handy.  I picked up the scope which is linked because it's an upgrade over my current scope which has a smaller screen, no LEDs and no remote, yet cost the same (and I have an idea to make my smaller scope portable).  I received it yesterday and it's going to be the primary scope I use now. 

​The linked USB Microscope is $40 after the coupon (606VJQH4), and has a bunch of features which are big upgrades over the small scope I currently use (bigger 7" 1080P screen, higher magnification, two bright LED lights and a remote).  It also has a solid aluminum stand which is rarely found in a scope for this price.  These usually go for double or more.  The deal expires 08/19/2023 12:01AM PDT.

My parents had a lift chair left to them some time ago, and it had been working great until yesterday, when the back stopped actuating up and down, so they asked me to have a look.  The Golden Tech lift chair is really well built by the way, it had been running without any other issue for over a decade by now I'd guess.  After checking over the cable and not finding a problem (other than where the insulation fell off, and had to be repaired with tape previously), I took the remote apart.

The remote has an interesting design, instead of just using low voltage signal level stuff, I found that it actually contains the MOSFETs which would drive the linear actuators.  That means the motor current has to go through the remote controller (and remote cord), which is not a problem, just not how I expected they would design it.  In any case, this probably makes it easier to troubleshoot, and if the board goes bad, it's just the remote that needs to be replaced (at a cost of about $77). 

Fortunately, when I opened the controller (there are 5 screws by the way, with one under the label), I found that one of the wires had broken off (probably from years of slight twisting of the wires, despite the pretty robust strain relief).  After cleaning up the wire and the hole it goes into, I found others were also a bit broken, so I removed a total of 4 wires and resoldered them.  Then I added a zip tie for strain relief, and covered the wires in hot glue for good measure, so they'd be less likely to break again.  Next I cleaned up a decade of crumbs which had gotten into the remote, cleaned the silicone oil that had leached from the number pad, and then cleaned the board pads with alcohol to remove the remaining oil there.  After that simple fix, it works like new again.  It's not a big deal, but I haven't been able to post much lately and thought the pics may help anyone with a similar remote, or a similar problem with it.  

I uploaded the latest version of the Pi Panel to Printables.  I have not been able to test it yet, however I have printed earlier prototypes and the latest design is mostly the same.  The main changes are a more complete wire management setup, and a Lilypad button is now used.  The design is pretty complicated and not an easy print, and there are a number of parts needed, so it's only for the folks that like to live life on the edge, and don't mind the possibility of wasted time and filament - at least until I can either test it myself or some brave soul prints it and provides feedback.  But I will do what I can to fix any issues (as time permits).  I probably won't be able to make a detailed guide build guide for a while, but once the design is confirmed working I plan to make one (but it will be a while).  

If you want to have a look at the files, they are posted here:

Pi Panel Voron 2.4 Skirts are here (there is a normal version, and a version that can be printed with a screen to fill the holes)

​The Pi Panel itself is here.  

I just wanted to drop an update here since I have been away for a while.  I've been very busy lately helping to take care of family, and my hobbies including this site have taken a far back seat.  I'm hoping that I can get back to this site and 3D printing soon, if things can begin to get back to normal.  Although these last few months have generally sucked, the silver lining is a bit of perspective on the things that actually matter in life (friends and family for anyone wondering). 

I'm not done wiring up my Voron 2.4, but I was able to get the AC side of things connected up.  I didn't find any issue with the way things have gone so far, so I went ahead and posted the wire management duct remix to Printables.

You can find them here (the WAGO box and AC Caution covers are posted as remixes):
www.printables.com/model/502306-remix-of-ryandams-cable-management-duct-for-voron-

The smaller wire guides (which I used to connect my ground wires to the DIN rails) can be found here:
www.printables.com/model/502345-wire-management-guides

I'm not sure why I made this, but I thought it would be simple.  Turns out I had to make it twice, when the clamshell case had an interference problem, and I decided to use WAGO 221-412 splice connectors with it.  I know I could have used the same ground and saved some space, but I wanted this to be more universal in case I wanted to use it with some other projects.  I'm waiting on the 0.28" voltmeters, but I have used this design before so I know it will work.  The inlayed text did not come out too good on this, I think I should have used a 0.4mm nozzle but did not want to swap it just for this.

On second thought, I think I need all the space I can get, so I re-worked this a bit to fit two WAGO 221-412 and one WAGO 221-413 (for the grounds).  I also made some other minor changes, so I need to print this and test it.  The final design will be posted to Printables when it is ready.

Update 6/15/2023: This is printed and seems to work OK.  The text got squished out and muddled but functionally it seems OK.  I will post it up to Printables once I get it installed.

I posted a remix of Hartk1213's Voron2.4 GE5C Z Joint to Printables and TeamFDM.

The original design from Hartk1213 is great, and I do not feel this is an improvement, just different.  The primary difference is that the bearing is moved up (higher than the MGN9 carriage) and back just a fraction of a mm which would otherwise interfere with the carriage).  Hartk1213's design has the bearing sitting tight against the carriage which helps to retain it fully but limits moving the bearing back towards the carriage (since it sits tight to the carriage).  I could have used the original design and just re-adjusted my AB joints a touch (like a fraction of a mm) and it would be fine as well.

​To make the remix, I used the models from the Voron Github, so I set the center of the GE5C bearing using the CAD model's center of the M5 bolt which attaches the lower belt clip.  Using that position meant the bearing would interfere with the MGN9 carriage, so I raised the bearing just enough to clear the MGN9 carriage.  To both raise the bearing above the carriage and hold it in all directions, I had to split the joint.  The split is designed with a lot of surface area, so it would be possible to use some glue, to better hold it together.  So far I have not glued mine. 

This design is an almost ground up remix, so some dimensions are changed from the original model.  I used the STEP file from the Voron Github to assist with setting up the alignment of the parts.  If interested, please check it out on Printables, and if you like it, please post a make for it there (which helps get me to a first roll of Prusament).

I could not find a decent deal on Amazon for the bearings, but they are less expensive in quantity on AliExpress (and maybe Ebay as well) - UPDATE these are garbage, they have too much play.  If you want to try the IGUS bearings they have them on KB-3D.com (though I have not tried these - but probably will).

Update 5/22/2023: There was some concern about the split joint being too weak when I posted this on Reddit, so I decided to take another stab at this.  The updated design is still split, but the split will be moved towards the top.  Additionally there will be some more surface area, especially around the bearing, which would be a good place to add some glue or solvent weld the halves together.  I have one test joint printed (pictured), and after putting it together without glue, it seems like I may need to pry it apart with a screwdriver to get the bearing out.  I made one minor change to the design (to increase the thickness of the upper part which the screw heads will clamp on), and am printing that now.  I should have the updated design posted later this week.

Update 5/26/2023: The design is done.  I installed them, but found that more than half the bearings I received have a noticeable amount of play (backlash), which is not really acceptable.  I think I have identified four OK bearings from a bag of ten, which I will use for now.  However I ordered some IGUS GE5C bearings, which should be much better quality (but run $5 per bearing) and will swap them out later.  Update - the IGUS Bearings appear to have no noticeable play, so I'm gonna re-print and replace the Z joints so I can use them (I have to re-print them since I glued the joints together).

I feel that the updated design is stronger now, and feels very solid (printed in ABS).  I used some superglue on the joints, and had to cut the bearing out of one of them to salvage it, when I iterated the design.

The updated design can be found at the links below.  If you like the model, please post a make over at Printables, since that will help get me closer to a spool of Prusament:

https://www.printables.com/model/486683-voron24-ge5c-z-joint-remix​

https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/711-voron24-ge5c-z-joint-remix/

Update 6/16/2023: After thinking about this a bit, I am not sure if this is an ideal solution since the joints need some x-y play in order to operate (think of it like a door swinging through it's arc, if you held the door at the door handle you would be pulled as it opened).  If you like the idea of the GE5C mod, then this is an option though.  

Update 8/11/2023: My first idea was dumb, so I'm thinking of something else which won't use the GE5C bearings.  For now though, I'm going to leave it as-is. 

Update 8/22/2023: My second idea was also dumb, so my third idea was to move the bearing up to the part below the belt retainer, which may have some advantage being closer to the gantry, but it's neither printed nor tested.  This design is on the back burner for now, and won't be posted unless somebody wants to test it and provide feedback.  Note that the lower part attached to the carriage is just a placeholder, since it would be designed as a solid part, with a M5 screw going into it.  The carriage mount would need to have a nut or M5 insert, but otherwise is very simple.

There is some progress on the wire management duct remix (original is credit to  RyanDam's Cable Management Duct).  I still need to test these but the models at least seem to work.  I used the STEP files from the Voron Github to model some custom ducts which are tailored for a 350mm R2.4, however I think that they could work with other sizes, possibly with modifications.  I wanted to keep the AC wires separated from the low voltage stuff, so my solution was to keep all the AC wiring down in the lower left side of the image below.  The ducts which will hold the AC wires will end at the 24V power supply, and there will be a box that will help to manage them as well.  The 5V DC will have a breakout box with two 221-415 WAGO's (one for positive and one for ground), which will be located somewhat centrally to the ductwork in the upper left side.

The most difficult part of this design are the covers, particularly the covers which need to step up and over the DIN rails.  These are hinged so they can print flat, however getting the hinges right is a challenge (the first ones I printed were fused).  I'm not sure if this will be the final design, but it may be close.  If my prints come out OK, I will post this up to Printables.

Update 5/12/2023: The basic design for the hinged covers is working, but I now just need to tweak the fit a bit.  My Ender3 also blew out it's heatbreak which set me back a bit replacing the block, heatbreak and nozzle (and having to reprint a melted air duct for it).

Update 6/2/2023: This project is almost done, I am just printing the parts to confirm everything fits.  Unfortunately my Ender3 is having some random layer shift problem which I need to investigate when I get some time.  Getting the hinged step top cover fitting like I wanted also has taken some time, but it seems good now.  There will be some optional multicolor prints to emboss some text, but it will not be required.  The next update will hopefully have a link to the files and some more pics.

Update 6/10/2023: These are all printed and installed, but I am waiting until I complete the wiring to post them (probably a week since I'm waiting on some materials).

Update 6/15/2023: The wire management ducts are posted on Printables:
https://www.printables.com/model/502306-remix-of-ryandams-cable-management-duct-for-voron-

One of the things which triggers a bit of latent OCD with me is wire management.  I have done my share of crap wiring jobs and one thing is common to all of them.  When it comes time to troubleshoot/upgrade/replace something, it's nothing but cursing all around.  I hope I learned a bit from having to rebuild a few projects just to clean up the wiring, so when I started assembling the electronics for my Voron 2.4, I knew I would be in for some problems, I just was not sure what I was gonna do about them.  Fortunately there are great designs in the community which I am using or remixing to fit my printer, and what I'm trying to achieve.  I thought I would make a post to cover some of the things which I am using or plan to use (or am working on) to help with wire management in a Voron printer.

I didn't need to do anything to RyanDam's Cable Management Duct, other than to make it a bit longer.  I'm extending them so I can run two and cover the full sides of my Voron 2.4 350 electronics compartment.  I plan to post these as a remix on Printables soon.

The stock 2020 rail WAGO mounts included in the official Voron files fit the WAGO 221-415 blocks perfectly, so much so that I had to break the first one I printed to remove the precious WAGO's when I iterated the design, and needed them out to test it.  The original Voron design is great, and so I used it as a basis to remix some changes.  The first change I made was to create a 4x415 block (and a 2x415 block).  Then I added some guards and label holders to it.  The guards are there for mains hot and neutral lines, to give them a bit of extra protection from getting bumped.  The label holders are designed to be used with Brother P-Touch 12mm labels.  Since the labels may not stick well to a bumpy printed surface, they will be retained by small frames which will slide over them. 

These are posted on Printables and TeamFDM.

I'm not sure what to call this one, but it really tickles the old OCD gray cells.  I want to ground my DIN rails, which as far as I can tell just sort'a float in the stock Voron.  Technically the DIN rails are connected to the bed rails, so would be grounded to the frame, but it's not as direct a path to ground as just connecting them up to a ground point.  Additionally the ground wire to the SSR would also ground one rail in the stock config (via the required metal DIN mount for the SSR).  The SSR in my kit has correct metal DIN mount, but the SSR case has a note that it should be grounded to the DIN rail (though if it's grounded directly I'd think it would be about the same).  In any case, I'm going for more grounds the better, and so designed some cable routing things to help my ground wires reach the DIN rails, and then route back to a grounding point in as low a profile way as possible (and avoiding the sharp edges was also a goal. 

This is still a work in progress but it's coming along.  The wire guides will mount with VHB tape, and unfortunately will block me from adding a cable duct wherever I locate these, but I plan to just keep them in one area.  I used a star washer to dig into the metal on the DIN rails with a washer over that and finally the crimped on ring terminal, I plan to ground the frame similarly.  Getting the ground screws installed in the DIN rail was a whole 'nother story, which I may write up in the build log, but the short of it is, roll in M4 nuts would be much better suited to hold the DIN rails than the cheap M4 T-nuts included in the FYSETC kit.  I used are some 16AWG wire to ground the rails, which will run back to a grounding point.

Once I get these wire guides finalized, I will post them on Printables.  There will be multiple sizes of straight or 90° guides, but only two basic formats (single and double wires guides).  There is also a double wire "bridge", which will go over one end of the DIN rail and keep the wires off the sharp edges of it as they cross over.  The wires I plan to run over the DIN rail are ground wires, so I don't think it would be an issue.

Update 6/10/2023: These are now posted on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/502345-wire-management-guides