The DK Riser is finally posted, with some updates which were added at the last minute to address a couple minor issues. You can find the models (along with a .3mf from OrcaSlicer) at the links below:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/56211
https://www.printables.com/model/635010-dk-riser-remix-no-vents-with-a-front-switch
I'd recommend that anyone making (or planning to make) this consider the components used, and make their own choices on what is appropriate. But note that this was designed for a 2 wire connection to the LEDs, which means it will not work with RGB LEDs (only single color, like these). If you see something I should correct here, please let me know. I am not an electronics expert, and I don't claim to be an expert on this stuff, only a hobbyist. And as always, if you make or use one of these, it is at your own risk. Also, please don't run with scissors, always wear safety glasses, and do your own research, and have fun!
I may add a build guide for this later, but for now the list of parts for the project are below. The amazon affiliate links are just suggestions, but they should help to find the parts which fit this model, even if they are sourced elsewhere (*cough* AliExpress *cough*)
Update 8/21/2024: I added some additional images of the wiring on my riser, which shows how I connected the switch and the DC input jack. I also added a crude diagram of how the wiring was done in my riser (I updated the diagram to reflect how mine was wired) . I extended the wires from the DC input jack, through the wire chase to the front where the switch is located, then I connected the switch and LEDs from there.
Update 9/1/2024: I'm working on an update to this design, which will add a flip up block to raise the front of the glass when venting is required. You can follow updates on that here.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/56211
https://www.printables.com/model/635010-dk-riser-remix-no-vents-with-a-front-switch
I'd recommend that anyone making (or planning to make) this consider the components used, and make their own choices on what is appropriate. But note that this was designed for a 2 wire connection to the LEDs, which means it will not work with RGB LEDs (only single color, like these). If you see something I should correct here, please let me know. I am not an electronics expert, and I don't claim to be an expert on this stuff, only a hobbyist. And as always, if you make or use one of these, it is at your own risk. Also, please don't run with scissors, always wear safety glasses, and do your own research, and have fun!
I may add a build guide for this later, but for now the list of parts for the project are below. The amazon affiliate links are just suggestions, but they should help to find the parts which fit this model, even if they are sourced elsewhere (*cough* AliExpress *cough*)
- Qty 1 - rocker switch (non-prewired version also works). I used a similar switch I had already. The hole for the switch is 12.9x18.4mm.
- Qty 1 - DC input jack (other sizes will also work, but may need to be drilled out)
- Qty 1 - Wire, I used 20 AWG "zip" wire (which I had around), similar to this.
- Qty 1 - COB LED strip. There are many options for these, but this is what I used. I put a 5.5x2.1mm DC male connector on the end, so I can use the RF controller (which works great).
- Qty 4 - M3x20mm SHCS (this assortment from Amazon has all the M3 hardware needed)
- Heat shrink tubing for the wire connections. The smallest of these Heat Shrinkable Solder Seal Connectors may also work (but I used regular heat shrink in this case, which is more compact).
- Optional Qty 1 - Fuse Holder The non-wired version will be easier to work with. The pre-wired versions make it very hard to remove or install the nut. And I had one where the wire fell off, so if I buy them again I will just get the non wired version. If using the fuse holder, it's important to get a fuse which is sized correctly for the load.
- Optional Qty 4 - 6x3mm cylinder magnets (if using the AMS tool)
- Optional - the back has a holder for best tool for the Bambu printers with an AMS.
- Optional - I used a 0.47" Brother P-Touch label to notate the voltage for the LED's (so the wrong power supply is not accidentally connected to them).
Update 8/21/2024: I added some additional images of the wiring on my riser, which shows how I connected the switch and the DC input jack. I also added a crude diagram of how the wiring was done in my riser (I updated the diagram to reflect how mine was wired) . I extended the wires from the DC input jack, through the wire chase to the front where the switch is located, then I connected the switch and LEDs from there.
Update 9/1/2024: I'm working on an update to this design, which will add a flip up block to raise the front of the glass when venting is required. You can follow updates on that here.
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