Update - 12/14/2023: I decided to replace the shotgun in the v1.0 pack with a different weapon, here is a sneak peek:
I'm working on a new version of the Weapons Pack V1.0 for Dummy 13, which I just need to test print and make the STL's and STEP files for, before I can post it. It's gonna include some new weapons as well as the old weapons. Update - 12/14/2023: I decided to replace the shotgun in the v1.0 pack with a different weapon, here is a sneak peek: Update 12/15/2023: The Dummy 13 Weapons Pack Version 2.0 has been released with some new weapons. You can find it here.
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I posted a remix of my Dummy13 Goes to the Moon - Astronaut Remix in a single color version (for normal printers). The original was designed for an AMS/MMU, which not everyone has. The single color remix also lead to an improved helmet design (which does require glue, but prints much nicer). I'm pretty happy with the way the single color version turned out, and so I entered it in the Prusa "Jointed Figures – Jubilee Round!" contest (so do me a favor and drop a like over on Printables for the model - but only if you like it of course. If you want to check out the multi-color version of the same model, which has some cool patches and flags added to the design, you can find that model here. Update 12/10/2023 - What could be better than a Dummy 13 Astronaut with a bag of extra parts in your Christmas stocking? I'm thinking a Dummy 13 Astronaut with a kit card of extra parts, so I designed this: The kit includes hands from the original Dummy 13 model, and some which were remixed by Mici as well (the pointing hand and thumbs up hands). I also added a new astronaut tool to this kit, which looks sort'a like a Geiger counter, but I was thinking of it as some sort of tricorder type thing. The gun looking tool is actually inspired by an astronaut's “pistol grip tool” (fancy space bolt driver), but with enough imagination, it could make “pew-pew” sounds as well (though it's space, so maybe just the visuals).
You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/206949#profileId-240171 Update 3/29/2024: There are some new tools and a camera have been added, and there are some small changes to the original model as well. A 3MF is also now available with a multicolor option. I designed some stocking hanger hooks, which can mount with either 3M Command Strips or #8 wood screws. The covers are mostly remixed ornaments, and the STEP file is included if you want to add your own remixes. These were printed using a Bambu X1C with AMS (Orca 3mf files are included). The hooks were designed using ViaCadV12 Pro.
Files are here: https://www.printables.com/model/668088-my-stoopid-christmas-stocking-hangers https://makerworld.com/en/models/81797 This is entered in the Printables Holiday Decorations Contest (so if you like it, please give it a like over there). I tried to get this in the Christmas Contest at MW (under the wire) but when I try and enter it, the design does not show up (oh well :D). Thanks to the following creators, who's designs were used to remix the decorative cover plates for these hangers: Snowflake snowflake snowflakes snowflakes by Best_codes Christmas Tree Ornaments by AneoPsy Bell (Christmas Ornament) by Pawelek209 I have been looking for cool "card kits" to throw in as gifts for friends and family at Christmas, and found several really cool models on Printables. I've printed a few different card kits already, as well as a remix of Dummy 13, which is an excellent model. The Dummy 13 model is a complex model, but there is a very handy video, that shows how to assemble it. I specifically built the Dummy 13 (Beta) On Runners (Easier to print) models and the DUMMY 13 goes to COMIC CON - Deadpool remix by Mici (unfortunately no card kit version of the remix). I've never actually seen the Deadpool movies, but the figure is gonna be for a coworker. To test the model though, I decided to make one of the figures. Building one would also allow me to explain how to assemble the figure to the person receiving it (but I'm keeping the one I built, since it's also very cool). There was only one real tricky part in assembling the Dummy 13 model, which is that there are two very similar frame parts, which go into the torso and pelvis of the Dummy 13 model. The part that goes into the pelvis is the slightly shorter one. Other than that, the Dummy 13 model, and the remixed parts all went together perfectly and the figure is extremely poseable. I made a minor remix of a weapons pack for the Dummy 13 model, which is posted here. I'm also working on an astronaut mod for Dummy 13, which will be posted in the next week (but here is a preview): I'm planning to print several other "card kits" as gifts as well. These are some of the best I have found so far: A remix of the Catapult Card. I'm going to print this one with thicker parts. Gingerbread House Kit Card Snowflake TIE Fighter Kit Card Ornament (pictured) Star Wars X-Wing Snowflake Decoration (Larger stabilized version) (pictured) At-at kit card (cool but hard to make it stand on it's own) Star Wars B1 Battle Droid 2.0 Kit Card Flexi Gingerbread Darth Vader (not a card kit, but I may "cardify" it) And again the awesome card kit remix of Dummy 13 Below are some pics of the kit cards I printed so far (and assembled). As I print more, I will post additional pics. Update 12/3/2023: The Astronaut Remix for Dummy 13 is posted on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/668234-dummy13-goes-to-the-moon-astronaut-remix Photo Credits:
National Aeronautics and Space Administration https://history.nasa.gov/alsj/a17/images17.html#MagA https://history.nasa.gov/alsj/a17/AS17-147-22470HR.jpg Also thanks to the following makers, whose models I used to make the cover image for this thing: INVASION! The electric tea light UFO by DrKronos Cow by Orto See update below - I would not recommend these. I recently had to remove the stock hot end (again) from my X1C to try and clear a nozzle issue which I think was causing poor quality prints (that is still up in the air), and while I was at it I broke the thermistor wires (oops, but that is on me). The thermistor wires on these things are super fragile, and even when they don't just fall apart, the wires can be pulled out of the connector very easily. That is just to say, be careful and maybe grab some spares. But my fat fingers breaking thermistor wires is not what this post is about, it's about the after market Bambu Hot Ends. There are two versions of these, which I am aware of, and both have their purported pluses and minuses. I bought the "2.0" version, which has a more robust connection between the heat tube and the heat sink. The link by the way is for reference, they are available for around 10 bucks from China. The V2 probably is the one to get, since bent heat tubes can happen. However the one caution with the V2.0 hotend (which I have read about), is to evenly tighten the screws on the metal mount that attaches to the heat sink. That will avoid having the hot end tilt to one side due to uneven tightening of the screws. I set up my V2.0 hot end, and tightened down a new nozzle in it, so I was interested to see what it would do. What I got was a bunch of boogers. I cleaned the nozzle several times, and thought maybe the wiper was not doing as good a job on the non OEM nozzle. But after a couple prints had blobs deposited in various locations thru the printing, I pulled the V2.0 hotend off to check it. What I found was a classic problem with 3D printing nozzles - that is failure to hot tighten the nozzle. I had torqued the new nozzle down pretty well when I installed it, but I got just a smidge extra from turning from it when it was at 250°C (after cleaning the plastic off). I should have expected that to happen (it was in the back of my mind since I started to see blobs), since I would never try installing a normal nozzle without hot tightening it. And yep, the aftermarket hotends are more like a normal nozzle, so that's also on me. It may also be however, that my aftermarket nozzle or hot end may be faulty in some way, so I will update if hot tightening helped much. But it does lead me to think that these aftermarket nozzles are a niche item, and so I would not recommend anyone who is not needing whatever extra edge they provide, since they also come with downsides. If you run a print farm and burn through nozzles, or run some exotic material that may work better with the aftermarket nozzles, sure, go for it (but you also probably have a ton more experience points that I do anyway). But for a person who does printing casually, and maybe just wants a more trouble free experience, I'd say stick with the stock hot ends. The Bambu OEM hotends are reasonably priced, and well made (and if you don't run abrasive materials they are gonna be more hassle free). The stock nozzles by the way are pressed into the heat block, so they should not leak unless they are faulty (which seems pretty rare based on my casual monitoring of reddit). In any case, hot tighten the suckers if you use these aftermarket hotends, it can save some failed prints - and frustration. Update 11/17/2023 - After hot tightening the nozzle, I was able to get four decent short prints out of it, and then started to see some defects. I pulled the nozzle off to inspect it, and surprise... it is still leaking. I'm done with these aftermarket nozzles at this point, and it's gonna be tossed in a box never to be used again (or the trash), once I remove the parts. It was a waste of 10 bucks, and yeah maybe it's defective, or maybe I missed something, but if it's a crapshoot, I think I'd still rather pay the extra few bucks and get the OEM, which has a pretty much leakproof pressed in nozzle. There may be some trick to getting these torqued enough not to leak, but then its back to the same problems (and worse) as the old school V6 and MK8 style nozzles, which are actually much more trouble free than the tiny nozzles which this knock off uses.
I put the old OEM 0.4mm Bambu nozzle back on, which is what my printer shipped with. I checked the wear closely under a microscope and it's looking good. This is the same nozzle which started the fun since it was poorly printing, but I'm gonna give it another shot before I swap it out. With the stock nozzle back on, the k values have dropped just a tad which is interesting as well (though the aftermarket nozzle was leaking so that probably accounts for why they dropped when moving back to the OEM). The OEM 0.4mm nozzle I am running now, has had a cold pull done on it already, and I will do it again once it's purged out. It's been busy this past week, so I have gotten behind again on projects, but I'm gonna try and get the Gridfinity Box For Stuff printed. My prototype will have an updated label design, which will not require supports. There is also gonna be an optional gasket version which will use a printed TPU gasket. This gasket version may be released later though, depending on how things go with the prototype, since the Gridfinity version requires that the mating surfaces are at an angle (and I don't know how well the gasket will fit). Update 11/16/2023 - I've printed this 1.5 times and have pretty much garbage to show for it. I switched out the nozzle for an aftermarket V2.0 hotend and am testing that out, before I try it again. I'm also switching to PLA, which I think may be a bit more forgiving, since part of the issue is that I need a clean groove for the gasket in order to test the fit. This is gonna be a bit longer to post. UPDATE 1/12/2024: It's (finally) posted on Printables, you can find it here:
https://www.printables.com/model/710154-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-bfs I decided to post the basic storage box, which, after 82 seconds of thought, was named "Box For Stuff". And since (as far as anyone knows), it's the first version, and certainly the first version posted, I designated it Version 1.0. In reality it is probably version 103 or something like that, or "7J" by my oddball system. The basic box has none of the cool features of the Bambu Spares Box, or the Gridfinity Box (which I'm testing now). It also lacks a gasket, which in my testing may not actually make it waterproof anyway, but is still better than nothing. But those other versions will get posted as remixes. For now, if you just want a box for stuff, you can find it over at Printables:
https://www.printables.com/model/630027-box-for-stuff-bfs-v10 Update 11/10/2023: I've tested another way to add the label, which seems much more efficient, since it does not require supports, and seems just as robust. Once I add it to the basic design, I will update the other designs I'm working on, and then post those with the update. The Gridfinity version of this box, which has the new label design, is being printed now (to test), and the Bambu Spares Box is also waiting to be posted (I just need the time to update that design as well with the new label). A version of the spares box with s TPU seal is also pending, and will have the updated label design going forward. The DK Riser is finally posted, with some updates which were added at the last minute to address a couple minor issues. You can find the models (along with a .3mf from OrcaSlicer) at the links below: https://makerworld.com/en/models/56211 https://www.printables.com/model/635010-dk-riser-remix-no-vents-with-a-front-switch I may add a build guide for this later, but for now the list of parts for the project are below. The amazon affiliate links are just suggestions, but they should help to find the parts which fit this model, even if they are sourced elsewhere (*cough* AliExpress *cough*)
I recently had a clog in my X1C, and during the troubleshooting, I removed a bowden guide which I printed to help the tube make a more graceful bend into the effector. However that part seemed to be creating a problem with filament getting stuck, and removing it helped. The root of the problem though is not the guide, its that the X1C needs a Bowden guide in the first place. The trouble is due to a very minimal clearance between the top glass cover and the effector, which results in a tight bend as the Bowden tube goes into the extruder. When I went looking for risers, I found one that looks pretty amazing, it's called the DK Riser, and has some really good design work that went into it. I was gonna print it, but realized that I don't want my printer to have any openings, even if they have cool TPU seals. So I decided to remix that design a bit, to close the holes off. I also added a power switch for the lights, and a DC input jack on the back. When I thought I was done, I decided to increase the height just a bit more as well, so added 12mm to the thickness of the riser, which will give the Bowden tube even more clearance to move around and hopefully not hit the glass. I need to test and print this of course, so it's gonna be a while before this gets posted. Update 10/28/2023: I think the design for the DK Riser Remix is completed, and am now printing the prototype. Even though this remix will be a very bare bones riser (without any vents), compared to the original, I decided to spice it up a bit with a few extra features, including the following:
Update 10/31/2023: The design is pretty much done, I just need to install the LED's, which will be here tomorrow. I went with some USB powered LED's, which I hope is not a mistake, but if they are a problem, I will figure out some other use for them. This prototype allowed me to update the design with some improvements related to installing the wiring. The holes were a bit too small so while I struggle to install them, the design which will be uploaded will have much more clearance. Other than that, its pretty much the same. I'm really surprised how well TPU prints on the X1C, though getting it off (the cold sheet) is difficult. I used the liquid bed "glue" as a release agent before each TPU print, and then dabbed on a bit of IPA to help remove the TPU parts, which helped. Update 11/1/2023: The prototype is completed and works. I had to make some on the fly modifications to one of the covers, but that will be fixed in the finalized design which gets posted. My prototype also had less space for wiring and running the wires, than the final design has, but even so, I was able to get it wired up without too much of a problem. The USB LED's work great, and I can dim them using the remote, which also has a timer feature to set them to turn off after 4 hours. The switch on the front can be shut off which does not seem to change the last state of the LED's. So if I set the LED's to 50% brightness and shut off the front switch (which is connected to the LED strip), the LED's will come back on at 50% if I turn the switch back on. I may check the power draw of the controller when the LED's are off vs when they are on to see how much standby power it consumes. Overall though, I really like it, and especially like that the bowden tube has much more clearance to run free now, so I don't need to use any guides or worry about feeding issues due to the sharp bend. The lights are also a nice upgrade. Update 11/2/2023: Just got everything done and took a few more pics. There is one minor change I may add before I upload it, though it's not a huge deal either way.
The Bambu X1C has been pretty solid, but today it was having a fit. It would not back out the filament (unload) from the AMS, and kept dropping an error about it. I went through the basics, and after some investigation realized it had to be in the extruder. Sure enough, some slightly wet PLA had broken (my bad), and there was a small piece of PLA stuck right over the extruder sensor, which is above the gears. I'm not sure that's the end of the story though, but more on that later. The clog was a blessing in disguise though, since I had to remove the hot end to pull the extruder, I found noticed immediately that the thermistor wire was broken. It really just fell apart, so was an easy thing to notice. What is really strange though, is that there had been no thermistor errors, so there must have been a good mechanical connection. In any case I swapped it, and in the process, learned how much I hate tiny connectors. I also found that for some reason, known only to Bambu, they put some adhesive on the stepper connector, which must be unplugged to remove the stepper. I was able to carefully pick it off, but it's sort'a annoying, I really hope that is not there due to some issue, and I will later regret having to do that, but it's the only way to get the extruder off to check it. When I got the extruder apart, I used a toothpick to clean out the gears, which had some rusty looking crud on them. I also cleaned, and then added a very very tiny (like watchmaker tiny) drop of oil to the bearings and on the shafts in the extruder. Getting it all back together was pretty easy, aside from the micro connectors which I can hardly see, and the hot end being very stubborn about seating where I could get the screws to slide in. It is all back together though, and printing part of While I had a packet of thermal paste open, I decided to set up a new high flow knockoff hot end from AliExpress, which I picked up for about $10. It includes everything but the fan, and I also bought a couple high-flow nozzles at the same time. I'm not planning to use this right now though, since my goal was just to get the machine back up and running with as few variables changed as possible (and the only variable changed was the thermistor in this case). The AliExpres hotend does look very nicely made though, and I have no doubt it would work, and may outperform the stock even - though with some drawbacks if using abrasives or filled materials (since it seems likely the third party high flow nozzles will clog easier). Something I also noticed with the AliExpress spare hotend socks, is that they do not have the same profile as the stock Bambu socks. That means the knock off socks will not work with my spares case, which is fine since I only have the one and probably will not buy any more. And finally (maybe) after tearing it down and putting it all back, it had another error when trying to pull the filament back. It's only happened on the #2 spool so far, and may be due to the bend right at the hot end. I was able to clear the latest error by purging the hot end and then unloading/loading/unloading. I already removed a bowden guide, which had been on the printer from almost day one, but it did seem to be related to the filament loading/unloading issue most recently. It remains to be seen if the other AMS spools will have this problem, or if maybe it's something else that has worn down and needs to be replaced. I hope that's the end of the issues for a while, but the next steps will be to replace the bowden to the hot end, and maybe print a riser for the glass top to give more clearance there for the tube to bend. I think the sharp bend in the bowden is the cause of some of these loading problems.
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Stoopid MeWelcome to my Stoopid corner of teh Internet. It's mostly gonna be 3D printing stuff, but I also post some recipes, projects, and the occasional rant here as well. More Stoopid stuff is updated regularly. Archives
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